Bleed brake tips

[SLINX]

Hi I have a set of shimano brakes. BL m445 levers and BR m446 calipers. Ive been told that some brakes are bled from the top down ie. through the funnel down the system or through a syringe pushing oil through the caliper and up into the funnel. Apparently its  either or and there is a risk of damaging the brakes if i get it wrong. most of the videos Ive watched show it being done from the bottom up then top down.

 

Could someone please shed some light on the topic and offer one or two pearls of wisdom? Thanks.

[JXV]

go to the source and download the manufacturer's service instructions - si.shimano.com

 

Your brakes can use the funnel system. Bottom up then drain from the top down. Best to find the manual and get all the specific instructions.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[intern]

YouTube is my go-to. Did the pads and bled the brakes on my BMW X5 last week, easy as pie thanks to YouTube.

[droo]

http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/how-to-bleed-new-shimano-brakes/

 

Best guide I've ever found.

[SLINX]

shot guys will give it a poke tonight. so far my bleed kit cost is at about R220 which isnt bad. max wax mineral oil R95 and shimano funnel R95 and some odds n ends. not bad

[bikebloke]

take your pads out and put them far away ..

clean your disks and any spills with alcohol before replacing the pads

 

or it will cost you more money

 

pads + mineral oil = junk

[Hairy]

http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/how-to-bleed-new-shimano-brakes/

 

Best guide I've ever found.

shotto for the link!

[Gravity]

and don't be an idiot like me and do it in the lounge.......

[Shebeen]

been having some snot and trane with AVID XX brake bleeds.

 

Got the bike second hand, so not actually sure how long it's been between bleeds (at least 18 months).

 

I've managed to get them to work fine, BUT after a lot of pt I only ended up doing half a job.

I've got the SRAM pdf manual, the youtube clips and and the explanations and I can't get the first basic step right. Pushing fluid from calliper up to lever. I'm guessing the lever port is blocked somehow, but it is on both brakes. I've just pulled the air out of the calliper and justed with the lever. 

 

Have done the pad contact and lever reach adjust as per instruction (and tried every possible option)

 

any advice?

http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/bleeding-brakes-cant-push-hydraulic-fluids-caliber-lever-juicy-carbon-826807.html

[Wannabe]

been having some snot and trane with AVID XX brake bleeds.

 

Got the bike second hand, so not actually sure how long it's been between bleeds (at least 18 months).

 

I've managed to get them to work fine, BUT after a lot of pt I only ended up doing half a job.

I've got the SRAM pdf manual, the youtube clips and and the explanations and I can't get the first basic step right. Pushing fluid from calliper up to lever. I'm guessing the lever port is blocked somehow, but it is on both brakes. I've just pulled the air out of the calliper and justed with the lever. 

 

Have done the pad contact and lever reach adjust as per instruction (and tried every possible option)

 

any advice?

http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/bleeding-brakes-cant-push-hydraulic-fluids-caliber-lever-juicy-carbon-826807.html

 

 

Depending where you are situated, contact Marc Rich at Attitude Cycles in Brackenfell.

He is my go to man at the odd occasion that my Sram/Avids needs attention.

He rebuild my Elixer's, and they are now just as potent as the set of XX1's I also have.

[Duane_Bosch]

When it comes to bleeding brakes I have a simple 4 step procedure

 

1. Take bike to shop

2. Wait for call from shop to say it's done

3. Pay the shop

4. Leave with bike

[droo]

been having some snot and trane with AVID XX brake bleeds.

 

Got the bike second hand, so not actually sure how long it's been between bleeds (at least 18 months).

 

I've managed to get them to work fine, BUT after a lot of pt I only ended up doing half a job.

I've got the SRAM pdf manual, the youtube clips and and the explanations and I can't get the first basic step right. Pushing fluid from calliper up to lever. I'm guessing the lever port is blocked somehow, but it is on both brakes. I've just pulled the air out of the calliper and justed with the lever. 

 

Have done the pad contact and lever reach adjust as per instruction (and tried every possible option)

 

any advice?

http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/bleeding-brakes-cant-push-hydraulic-fluids-caliber-lever-juicy-carbon-826807.html

 

Disconnect the hose at the lever and see if you can get fluid to come up through the hose. If you battle, then you'll need to replace the compression nut, barb and olive before bleeding.

 

If fluid flows though easily, you'll need to rebuild the lever. Your LBS should be able to order you the kit.

[paarlmtb]

[bikebloke]

When it comes to bleeding brakes I have a simple 4 step procedure

 

1. Take bike to shop

2. Wait for call from shop to say it's done

3. Pay the shop

4. Leave with bike

 

your bike shop must luv it when they see you and your credit card coming

its brake bleeding dude ...its easy (mostly)

man up

 

 

or just ask droo....

[Shebeen]

Shot, survived 200km+ at oak valley, but will give this a go now. if not then it's time to turn over to the experts.

 

 

Disconnect the hose at the lever and see if you can get fluid to come up through the hose. If you battle, then you'll need to replace the compression nut, barb and olive before bleeding.

 

If fluid flows though easily, you'll need to rebuild the lever. Your LBS should be able to order you the kit.

 

 

 

I've read his book, with all the tricks he pulled I don't think he'll have an issue with my bike (his namesake revolutionised oil trading, Glencore is his legacy)

Depending where you are situated, contact Marc Rich at Attitude Cycles in Brackenfell.

He is my go to man at the odd occasion that my Sram/Avids needs attention.

He rebuild my Elixer's, and they are now just as potent as the set of XX1's I also have.

 

 

Disconnect the hose at the lever and see if you can get fluid to come up through the hose. If you battle, then you'll need to replace the compression nut, barb and olive before bleeding.

 

If fluid flows though easily, you'll need to rebuild the lever. Your LBS should be able to order you the kit.

 

[Rigardt@Scott]

.