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Tubeless tyres save the day!!! I got a puncture along misty cliffs at yesterday's Cape Town cycle tour. I didn't even slow down and it sealed up with almost zero loss of pressure (maybe lost 5psi). I snuck in to finish in 2h 59m 28 seconds.

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I definitely think it's worth it, although initially it is a bit of admin, you need the correct rims, proper rim tape like Stans yellow tape (don't use the grey Ryder type tape, doesn't work at all). Definitely DON'T recommend Shwalbe PRO One EVO Tubeless, I had nightmares with these, punctures like never before. Now I use Hutchinson Fusion 5 Performance 11 Storm 28C which have been amazing, only 1 puncture that the sealant sealed up. I have found Herschell Extreme Tyre Sealant to work well, about 40mm per tyre.

 

Good luck.

 

I know this has been discussed , but I couldn't find the thread .

 

Is it worth doing ??

What tyres are recommended ??

How much sealant is used per wheel?? .

 

This will be for my training wheels which currently have Specialized Turbo 26mm tyres on .

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I had a big problem with giants gavia race 1. They keep leaking.... Stick to known quality brands.But continental is best for AC wheels. After my experience with gavia tyres I'm going back to tubes and using sludge in my tubes. My honest opinion tubeless is best for mtb and can be ridden at low pressure.But not for r oadbikes due to the high pressure. It can be very messy.

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I use the Schwalbe Pro ones and they have been fantastic. The Giant Gavia tyres that came with my bike didn't seal initially but that was because the shop used 'Sludge' which only seals when pressure is below 40psi.

Orange Seal fixes all the issues which are being blamed on the tyre

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Tubeless tyres save the day!!! I got a puncture along misty cliffs at yesterday's Cape Town cycle tour. I didn't even slow down and it sealed up with almost zero loss of pressure (maybe lost 5psi). I snuck in to finish in 2h 59m 28 seconds.

That would have been bye-bye sub 3 had you been riding tubes.

That said, how do you know that you punctured given the very marginal air loss.?

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That would have been bye-bye sub 3 had you been riding tubes.

That said, how do you know that you punctured given the very marginal air loss.?

The sealant sprayed out for about 4 or 5 revolutions before sealing. It was my first sub 3 so kind of a massive deal for me. Edited by Andreas_187
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I have had a nightmare of an experience with American Classics and Giant Gavia tyres last year - but they saved me yesterday when the puncture self sealed and I was able to continue without putting in a tube (after the N2 turn-off).

I wasn't in the running for a sub-3, but had a good day out regardless.

 

Having said that, I really struggled with getting any tyres on and off the American Classics.

GP4000's were OK, but the Gavias were terrible. And then I slashed about 4 tyres last year - very messy and expensive (including R150 Uber trips).

 

I cannot wait to get new wheels (maybe Mavic Ksyrium), but am not sure if I will stick with tubeless or go back to a 'conventional' setup.

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  • 6 months later...

Anyone have experience with the Maxxis High Road Tubless tyres? 

 

They're going for R550 on Bike-Addict, Hutchison Fusion 5 also going for R550. GP5000 TL is almost double the price so figure these might be a good option to try out Tubeless.

 

What does one do with tubeless valves if you have a deep section wheel, I haven't seen valves longer than 50mm, valve extenders?

 

I use Joe's Eco sealant for my MTB, according to them it works up to 8 bar so thinking about giving it a try for the road tubeless setup. They're Road sealant is rated up to 9 bar so not sure how much of a difference this will make.

Edited by Andy_P
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Quick question, how sensitive are the rims, do you HAVE to have Tubeless rims or will Nice Aksiums work with the right tape? I did a conversion on my MTB myself just not sure how possible it is on Road wheels.

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Quick question, how sensitive are the rims, do you HAVE to have Tubeless rims or will Nice Aksiums work with the right tape? I did a conversion on my MTB myself just not sure how possible it is on Road wheels.

I won't try it on carbon wheels but sure......why not on something like Aksiums......

The lip might be a bit different?  I am not sure.  You can see on the tyre a bit of a different place where the TL tyre will sit against the rim vs normal tyres........

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What does one do with tubeless valves if you have a deep section wheel, I haven't seen valves longer than 50mm, valve extenders?

 

I use Joe's Eco sealant for my MTB, according to them it works up to 8 bar so thinking about giving it a try for the road tubeless setup. They're Road sealant is rated up to 9 bar so not sure how much of a difference this will make.

I run GP 5000 on Zipp 404 NSW wheelset.  I am guessing they have 80mm tubeless valves.  So you do get.  I have not seen in shops for after market selling but you definitely do get them

 

The GP5000 are expensive as hell but hopefully they will give me solid kilos like their none-TL counterparts.

 

The LBS told me good old Stans will work.  

So far, so good

 

 

post-25-0-45443100-1602157865.jpg

Edited by Spinnekop
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I run GP 5000 on Zipp 404 NSW wheelset.  I am guessing they have 80mm tubeless valves.  So you do get.  I have not seen in shops for after market selling but you definitely do get them

 

The GP5000 are expensive as hell but hopefully they will give me solid kilos like their none-TL counterparts.

 

The LBS told me good old Stans will work.  

So far, so good

 

Thanks for the feedback! 

 

I'm running non-TL GP5000 at the moment and couldn't be happier with them. I don't put a lot of mileage on my road bike so they do last long which makes spending the money a bit easier. 

 

Now to find those valves...

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Now to find those valves...

Long valves are rare locally, and when you do find them at the likes of Spez Concept Store, they cost an arm and a leg.

Extenders work, but then valve still needs to extend far enough beyond the rim for this.

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Long valves are rare locally, and when you do find them at the likes of Spez Concept Store, they cost an arm and a leg.

Extenders work, but then valve still needs to extend far enough beyond the rim for this.

Guessing you "might" run into some problems depending on what type of sealant you use if you had to use extenders. The extenders have like a 1-2mm hole.

post-67394-0-36564700-1602165146_thumb.jpg

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You can buy longer valves, no need for extenders. No, you can't (or not recommended) run tubeless on non compatible wheels. I even tried putting a Schwalbe Pro One on a Ksyrium and couldn't even get it on the rim.

Normal Stans will only hold air up to approx 40psi. Their Race Sealant is supposed to be better but I haven't tried it personally.

 

I have read quite a few good reports about the Maxxis and Hitch. I use Schwalbe Pro Ones because they roll fast and are lighter than all the other tubeless tyres. I've also had no issues with them in over 15,000km

Edited by Andreas_187
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Guessing you "might" run into some problems depending on what type of sealant you use if you had to use extenders. The extenders have like a 1-2mm hole.

Haven't had any issues, but if it is a problem, perhaps add the sealant before attaching the extender.?

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