Sram GX / XO1 / XX1 12 Speed mileage

[Christofison]

Morning.

 

Would someone be kind enough to explain the methodology of rotating chains to increase life span of cassette?

 

I currently have a chain (GX) on 1000km, but showing no measurable signs of stretch on a cassette with the same km. Do I replace chain now(before wear) or do I wait for measurable (0.5 or 0.75?) wear before changing?

On a new chain and new cassette the forces applied are distributed evenly (more evenly) across the cogs, thus lower force on each tooth. The chain 'stretches' as the pins wear, and the pins wear quicker than the cogs do. On a 'stretched' chain there will be a greater force applied to the first cog tooth in contact, thus accelerating the wear.

 

Putting a new chain on now, will extend the life span of the cassette. But don't ditch the current chain. Keep it for when the cassette wear catches up, then you can use it again. I like to buy one chainring, one cassette and 3 chains and rotate the chains every 500-1000km. Hang all 3 up and then use which ever is shortest.

[DieselnDust]

funny that the 21T is actually fine but the lower 4 cogs that slip

 

Probably due to the angle of the chain getting more extreme.

The closer to a straight line the chain gets the smoother it disengages the sprocket teeth.

Best thing you can do is see if that chain settles into the cassette. If it does you will likely get another 3000 to 4000km before the chain is toast again but this time the cassette will be toast along with it

[Mike Mac]

On a new chain and new cassette the forces applied are distributed evenly (more evenly) across the cogs, thus lower force on each tooth. The chain 'stretches' as the pins wear, and the pins wear quicker than the cogs do. On a 'stretched' chain there will be a greater force applied to the first cog tooth in contact, thus accelerating the wear.

 

Putting a new chain on now, will extend the life span of the cassette. But don't ditch the current chain. Keep it for when the cassette wear catches up, then you can use it again. I like to buy one chainring, one cassette and 3 chains and rotate the chains every 500-1000km. Hang all 3 up and then use which ever is shortest.

Thank you for that explanation. I will go this route and replace chain every 1000km, unless there is measurable wear before then.

 

I currently have GX chain. Based on recommendations here, would like to go with an XX1 replacement. I assume that there is no issue mixing up chains when going to second or third round of changes?

 

Thanks again for all the valuable info and insight on this thread.  

[Christofison]

Thank you for that explanation. I will go this route and replace chain every 1000km, unless there is measurable wear before then.

 

I currently have GX chain. Based on recommendations here, would like to go with an XX1 replacement. I assume that there is no issue mixing up chains when going to second or third round of changes?

 

Thanks again for all the valuable info and insight on this thread.  

No problem with mix matching. Maybe just swap the GX chain after 500km since it wears quicker, and then run the fancier chains for a 1000km? The XO1 chain gives you a bit more bang for your buck than the XX1.

https://cyclingtips.com/2019/12/the-best-bicycle-chain-durability-and-efficiency-tested/

[Mike Mac]

No problem with mix matching. Maybe just swap the GX chain after 500km since it wears quicker, and then run the fancier chains for a 1000km? The XO1 chain gives you a bit more bang for your buck than the XX1.

https://cyclingtips.com/2019/12/the-best-bicycle-chain-durability-and-efficiency-tested/

Thanks.

 

Interesting link.

 

M

[babse]

Sorry, a little off topic. I’m on a 34 oval at the moment and considering a 34 round when this one is worn. Maybe it’s just me, but I’m not convinced an oval makes any real difference. Your experience please?

I've had good experience with my oval ring. 

Whether it actually made me climb better (or that was just me training harder) is a different story all together.

I enjoy the pedal stroke of the oval. The feel is a lot different.

 

Only reason I went back to round was because the crank I bought with a round ring. I'll see how it goes before I change back to oval

[babse]

Probably due to the angle of the chain getting more extreme.

The closer to a straight line the chain gets the smoother it disengages the sprocket teeth.

Best thing you can do is see if that chain settles into the cassette. If it does you will likely get another 3000 to 4000km before the chain is toast again but this time the cassette will be toast along with it

Gives me about 12months to save for new cassette then...

[Grease_Monkey]

So maybe someone here can diagnose.

 

I installed a brand spanking new XO1 groupo in May 2020. 2500km later with a chain at 0.5 and chewed up chainring I replaced chainring and chain.

 

I now have a clicking sound in my easiest 3 gears under heavy load slow cadence. The bike was dead silenr before I replaced the chain and cassette.

 

Anyone have an idea what the cause could be? Is it just the new chain settling?

 

I previously had the clicking soud with a GX cassette where the individual cogs are pinned together. My understanding is XO1 is milled from a single block with only 52t ring being pinned on. My initial thinking is that it was the pins creaking, but the sound is there in all 3 easy gears so that doesn't make sense...

 

PS - shifts are crisp, no chain slipping or jumping around.

[SCD]

Updated stats:

 

Mileage 11900km

 

XO1 Eagle Cassette 

 

Just put on the third XX1 chain. 

The first was running 5500km before reaching 0.5%

The second started to ghost shifting at 6400km, but also just dropping in the 0.5% tool

 

The cassette accepted the new chain with a smile. No noise, buttery shifting and no slippage under load (only tested up to 450W for now, no sprints yet...). No more ghost shifting.

 

Riding is mix of 50% approach on tar and the rest Tygerberg and TM trails.

 

I keep on being amazed by this cassette and chains. At this rate it will go through 20,000km on new chains....

[Jbr]

Updated stats:

 

Mileage 11900km

 

XO1 Eagle Cassette 

 

Just put on the third XX1 chain. 

The first was running 5500km before reaching 0.5%

The second started to ghost shifting at 6400km, but also just dropping in the 0.5% tool

 

The cassette accepted the new chain with a smile. No noise, buttery shifting and no slippage under load (only tested up to 450W for now, no sprints yet...). No more ghost shifting.

 

Riding is mix of 50% approach on tar and the rest Tygerberg and TM trails.

 

I keep on being amazed by this cassette and chains. At this rate it will go through 20,000km on new chains....

Amazing... I wish I knew the mileage on my current XTR and SRAM FORCE, both chains are very close to .5% with 1500km on the XTR and 5300 on the Force since I own them. I have a f****load of torque intervals at the moment, it's going to be interesting to follow how it impacts chainwear

Edited January 27, 2021 by Jbr

[DieselnDust]

So maybe someone here can diagnose.

I installed a brand spanking new XO1 groupo in May 2020. 2500km later with a chain at 0.5 and chewed up chainring I replaced chainring and chain.

I now have a clicking sound in my easiest 3 gears under heavy load slow cadence. The bike was dead silenr before I replaced the chain and cassette.

Anyone have an idea what the cause could be? Is it just the new chain settling?

I previously had the clicking soud with a GX cassette where the individual cogs are pinned together. My understanding is XO1 is milled from a single block with only 52t ring being pinned on. My initial thinking is that it was the pins creaking, but the sound is there in all 3 easy gears so that doesn't make sense...

PS - shifts are crisp, no chain slipping or jumping around.

The barrel adjuster probably needs a very small tweak and check the B gap again. Chains also suffer tolerance build up so the new chain could just be a bit shorter than the previous one despite having the same number links.

Otherwise it could be that those sprockets are worn more than the rest and the chain needs to settle in.

Edited January 27, 2021 by DieselnDust

[Grease_Monkey]

The quick link is installed correctly? That's all I can think of.

 

Yup... it is.

[Grease_Monkey]

The barrel adjuster probably needs a very small tweak and check the B gap again. Chains also suffer tolerance build up so the new chain could just be a bit shorter than the previous one despite having the same number links.

Otherwise it could be that those sprockets are worn more than the rest and the chain needs to settle in.

 

I'll check out the b-gap this afternoon before heading out and play around with the barrel adjuster a bit. I did use the Eagle spacer tool when installing though so it should be fine. 

 

Those 3 easy gears will definitely be more worn than the rest. I typically ride in places where I climb for 40 to 60mins and descend for 10mins. So I do spend the majority of the time in those gears. Hopefully it settles after a few rides, because there is nothing I hate more than a noisy drivetrain. 

[Meezo]

I'll check out the b-gap this afternoon before heading out and play around with the barrel adjuster a bit. I did use the Eagle spacer tool when installing though so it should be fine. 

 

Those 3 easy gears will definitely be more worn than the rest. I typically ride in places where I climb for 40 to 60mins and descend for 10mins. So I do spend the majority of the time in those gears. Hopefully it settles after a few rides, because there is nothing I hate more than a noisy drivetrain. 

 

i've had mixed results with this thing, for the last few bikes i've built. moving the derailer slightly further away has made shifting slightly more crisp/clean.

 

 

[Grease_Monkey]

i've had mixed results with this thing, for the last few bikes i've built. moving the derailer slightly further away has made shifting slightly more crisp/clean.

I will give that a go. Interestingly a friend of mine says he uses that tool with the bike at it's sag point and gets better results - your point supports that.

[CJ Van]

I will give that a go. Interestingly a friend of mine says he uses that tool with the bike at it's sag point and gets better results - your point supports that.

That friend is very clever.  Or maybe he just had a look at the instructions on how to setup the Eagle derailleur.  SRAM made if very clear that the B-Gap tool should be used when the bike is at the desired sag position.  

 

Anyway, sort out that noise, I don't want to ride with someone this weekend with a noisy bike.