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Enduro/gravity bike suspension and geo


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Posted
3 minutes ago, Thermophage said:

Tyre pressure and rider mass at bottomout on the SG casing?

About 100kg, on a Giant Trance, 26-28-ish psi in the rear. That being said, I rode Pat's Track a couple of times lately and those proper square edges do their work. 

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Posted
5 minutes ago, Adr!@n said:

About 100kg, on a Giant Trance, 26-28-ish psi in the rear. That being said, I rode Pat's Track a couple of times lately and those proper square edges do their work. 

35km/hr at 100kg + 16kg bike will do that. It's CONSIDERABLY more energy that the tyre needs to deal with than say me at the same speed.

1/2mv^2 and all :)

Posted
1 hour ago, Jewbacca said:

IMHO if your bike is set up properly you should bottom your fork out on every ride (assuming you ride trails)

If I am not getting my o-ring to within a couple of mm from the CSU then I am not set up correctly. 

 

What travel fork do you manage that on, because I can assure you if I was bottoming out my Yari, it would not be set up correctly on the damping front 🙂 

Posted
1 hour ago, Jewbacca said:

IMHO if your bike is set up properly you should bottom your fork out on every ride (assuming you ride trails)

If I am not getting my o-ring to within a couple of mm from the CSU then I am not set up correctly. 

 

same for me,

too much speed at the DH1 drop at tokai, or not on the brakes enough at the last table and DH3 entry is my main places for this... and every so now and then the entry of the boomslang

Posted

Following this thread has made me realise I need to remove a token from my fox 34.

75kg and it would take an act of God to bottom out my fork with anything less than 50% sag.

It feels way too progressive for me.

Any suggestions where I can find a chamfer-less 26mm socket that doesn't break the bank?

Posted
Just now, Trashy said:

Following this thread has made me realise I need to remove a token from my fox 34.

75kg and it would take an act of God to bottom out my fork with anything less than 50% sag.

It feels way too progressive for me.

Any suggestions where I can find a chamfer-less 26mm socket that doesn't break the bank?

a mate of mine, bought a normal socket and the shop he got it from grinded it down a bit to remove "chamfer" i'll find our which shop...

Posted
Just now, Meezo said:

a mate of mine, bought a normal socket and the shop he got it from grinded it down a bit to remove "chamfer" i'll find our which shop...

@usxorf

Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, Trashy said:

Following this thread has made me realise I need to remove a token from my fox 34.

75kg and it would take an act of God to bottom out my fork with anything less than 50% sag.

It feels way too progressive for me.

Any suggestions where I can find a chamfer-less 26mm socket that doesn't break the bank?

3D printer?  sorry, thought you were looking for tokens.

A socket + vice and a grinder with a file, then finish it off with some sand paper.

Edited by Hairy
Posted
2 minutes ago, Meezo said:

a mate of mine, bought a normal socket and the shop he got it from grinded it down a bit to remove "chamfer" i'll find our which shop...

Cheers. I'll probably go that route. Quite happy to grind it myself.

2 minutes ago, Hairy said:

3D printer?

I don't know that a plastic socket will cut it. It recently got serviced at Omnico and I reckon it was tightened to within an inch of its life.

Posted
1 minute ago, Trashy said:

Cheers. I'll probably go that route. Quite happy to grind it myself.

I don't know that a plastic socket will cut it. It recently got serviced at Omnico and I reckon it was tightened to within an inch of its life.

please see my corrected post, I first understood you were looking for tokens.

Posted
4 minutes ago, thebob said:

Buy a good 6 point socket (Gedore for me) and get the chamfer removed. A good engineering shop should be able to help you out

Impact socket is the simplest to find ye. 

But honestly a good shifting spanner is the easiest and still safe as it's basically un-chamfered.

Posted
8 minutes ago, Thermophage said:

Impact socket is the simplest to find ye. 

But honestly a good shifting spanner is the easiest and still safe as it's basically un-chamfered.

I tried with a shifting spanner. Wasn't prepared to put any more force into it as it wasn't budging 😕

Posted
1 hour ago, Headshot said:

What travel fork do you manage that on, because I can assure you if I was bottoming out my Yari, it would not be set up correctly on the damping front 🙂 

Anything I ride or have ridden for years. 100mm to 150mm... Various Pikes, A Yari, Fox Factory 34 and 36 and currently a Cane Creek Helm. 

I have always worked on the fact that if it doesn't bottom out, it's wrong.

Posted
1 hour ago, Jewbacca said:

Anything I ride or have ridden for years. 100mm to 150mm... Various Pikes, A Yari, Fox Factory 34 and 36 and currently a Cane Creek Helm. 

I have always worked on the fact that if it doesn't bottom out, it's wrong.

Each to their own. If you find a setup that works for you then go with it. With my setup I only bottom out if I hit something too hard or make a big mistake

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