Dear Bike Industry

[BMXER]

Sram brake levers (like the Guide / Level, etc.) can just be flipped over, so you don't even need to disconnect any hoses. Quick and easy to swap them around.

Yip, sram level ultimate seperate from the clamp and are interchangeable left to right.

[Frosty]

Most brake hoses don't even have to be cut anymore

 

Many can just unscrew the olive and swap around the hoses, and depending on the lever you might be able to just burp out the bubble swapping creates

Out the box, Shimano brakes are 1700mm for the rear. Mine was cut shorter, and required the olive.

[ChrisF]

Most brake hoses don't even have to be cut anymore

 

Many can just unscrew the olive and swap around the hoses, and depending on the lever you might be able to just burp out the bubble swapping creates

Swopping the Shimano hoses on my commuter was super easy ....

 

Unscrewed both sides ... "un plug" both pipes, swop about, push into the lever unit .... tighten the screws. That was it !!!

 

 

I did check the bleeding, but it was perfect.

 

 

The pipe routing is the biggest constraint ... on som bikes. The internally routed would come out of the down tube on the left, loop around to the right side lever .... the cable really doubles up if you want to attach it to the left lever. Doing a proper job would require a re-routing, so the cable exits the frame on the right .... IF the holes in the frame allows this ....

[TheoG]

Swopping the Shimano hoses on my commuter was super easy ....

 

Unscrewed both sides ... "un plug" both pipes, swop about, push into the lever unit .... tighten the screws. That was it !!!

 

 

I did check the bleeding, but it was perfect.

 

 

The pipe routing is the biggest constraint ... on som bikes. The internally routed would come out of the down tube on the left, loop around to the right side lever .... the cable really doubles up if you want to attach it to the left lever. Doing a proper job would require a re-routing, so the cable exits the frame on the right .... IF the holes in the frame allows this ....

 

That is exactly what I did on my bike, swapped around and rerouted everything the way I like it.

 

Sure it is a bit of effort but definitely not the end of the world and only needs to be done once unless you are female and you change your mind every other day ...     (Only joking girls, please don't attack).

 

Brake cables hoses on my frame is still externally routed so not a big deal at all to customize.  Don't even need to cut cable ties since I got some of those nice C-clamp jobbies.

Edited November 28, 2020 by Theog

[Hairy]

Swopping the Shimano hoses on my commuter was super easy ....

 

Unscrewed both sides ... "un plug" both pipes, swop about, push into the lever unit .... tighten the screws. That was it !!!

 

 

I did check the bleeding, but it was perfect.

 

 

The pipe routing is the biggest constraint ... on som bikes. The internally routed would come out of the down tube on the left, loop around to the right side lever .... the cable really doubles up if you want to attach it to the left lever. Doing a proper job would require a re-routing, so the cable exits the frame on the right .... IF the holes in the frame allows this ....

 

 

That is exactly what I did on my bike, swapped around and rerouted everything the way I like it.

 

Sure it is a bit of effort but definitely not the end of the world and only needs to be done once unless you are female and you change your mind every other day ...     (Only joking girls, please don't attack).

 

Brake cables hoses on my frame is still externally routed so not a big deal at all to customize.  Don't even need to cut cable ties since I got some of those nice C-clamp jobbies.

SRAM is even easier ... unbolt brake levers from bars, swap around and bolt back on .... easy peasy

[TheoG]

SRAM is even easier ... unbolt brake levers from bars, swap around and bolt back on .... easy peasy

 

I'm not a huge SRAM fan, but I must admit, that is good design and clever thinking to make the brake levers "swappable".  Hopefully Shimano learn from that for the future.

[EddieV]

Strange the article didn’t mention spokes. J-bend, straight, round, flat, etc., although they did imply extra stiffness by using more spokes

Not to mention the 2:1 spoke patterns either

 

Now you need 27h, 21h etc hubs and rims on top of the old 32, 28,24 etc rims/hubs ... when it comes to replacement options

[MrJacques]

https://cyclingtips.com/2020/11/new-motion-labs-dual-engagement-chain/

 

I was actually wondering why chain pitch, etc. hasn't really changed over the years. Is the current design the best i.t.o. that or can we do better?

 

Cool to see experimentation / innovation, although most of us probably wouldn't want a new non standard chain. A good time to have changed something like a new chain would have been when we jumped from 11 to 12 speed. We'll probably see 13 speed sometime.

[TheoG]

https://cyclingtips.com/2020/11/new-motion-labs-dual-engagement-chain/

 

I was actually wondering why chain pitch, etc. hasn't really changed over the years. Is the current design the best i.t.o. that or can we do better?

 

Cool to see experimentation / innovation, although most of us probably wouldn't want a new non standard chain. A good time to have changed something like a new chain would have been when we jumped from 11 to 12 speed. We'll probably see 13 speed sometime.

 

I will give that one to the d*** Americans, 1/2" pitch on a bike chain should remain.  If that change, the entire drivetrain change, all the gears, front & back and the derailleur wheels.  Shifters at least could stay the same.

 

The number of teeth that can be fitted on a cog (hence cassette layout/gaps) and the strength of the chain will need to be carefully considered if such a change is made.

 

Edit:  That fancy chain will be heavy as hell and shifting up and down a cassette will be challenging to say the least.

Edited November 30, 2020 by Theog

[MrJacques]

I will give that one to the d*** Americans, 1/2" pitch on a bike chain should remain.  If that change, the entire drivetrain change, all the gears, front & back and the derailleur wheels.  Shifters at least could stay the same.

 

The number of teeth that can be fitted on a cog (hence cassette layout/gaps) and the strength of the chain will need to be carefully considered if such a change is made.

 

Edit:  That fancy chain will be heavy as hell and shifting up and down a cassette will be challenging to say the least.

 

Yes, almost the whole drivetrain would need to change, but a jump from e.g. 11 to 12 speed would have been an ideal opportunity to do that as you need a new chain, cassette, derailleur, etc. anyway.

 

That fancy chain would probably be best suited to single speed, like a track bike.

 

I think gearboxes would be cool, no exposed derailleur. Although I've heard that they have some inherent drag, so not as efficient and a bit heaver. But I'd take that for having the components protected from dust, mud, rock strikes, etc.

 

There are also concepts like this. No chain and very efficient, but I think they still need to sort out the shifting.

 

Edited November 30, 2020 by MrJacques

[TheoG]

Yes, almost the whole drivetrain would need to change, but a jump from e.g. 11 to 12 speed would have been an ideal opportunity to do that as you need a new chain, cassette, derailleur, etc. anyway.

 

That fancy chain would probably be best suited to single speed, like a track bike.

 

I think gearboxes would be cool, no exposed derailleur. Although I've heard that they have some inherent drag, so not as efficient and a bit heaver. But I'd take that for having the components protected from dust, mud, rock strikes, etc.

 

There are also concepts like this. No chain and very efficient, but I think they still need to sort out the shifting.

 

 

 

I saw this before, I like a lot, I do understand though there are some teething issues, but conceptually this is brilliant.

[EddieV]

I’ve always been a DIY guy … and the reason why I bought “donkie” (4.2D LC SW) in 2007. I can (and have done) the timing belt replacements, valve clearance disc changes, diesel injectors, bearings and  major-and-minor services (oils) since the beginning. I think it’s the last vehicle in production/existence where this is still possible? She's been stolen-recovered, bumped, and scraped but I'm going to drive her until the wheels come off .....    ... a proper "blou-draad and pliers" kind of car? 

 

On my bicycles I have built and serviced them myself from parts by trying to stay true to some std's ... ie. 32h rim/hubs (so I can lace rim & hubs from diff manufacturers), std frames (27.2/30.9/31.6 seatposts, threaded BB’s and 1 1/8 steerers) but have ventured into the disc era now which changed so much.

 

There is just so many variables now …. It’s getting more difficult to find/elect a standard to stay with to future-proof?

[TheoG]

I’ve always been a DIY guy … and the reason why I bought “donkie” (4.2D LC SW) in 2007. I can (and have done) the timing belt replacements, valve clearance disc changes, diesel injectors, bearings and  major-and-minor services (oils) since the beginning. I think it’s the last vehicle in production/existence where this is still possible? She's been stolen-recovered, bumped, and scraped but I'm going to drive her until the wheels come off .....    ... a proper "blou-draad and pliers" kind of car? 

 

On my bicycles I have built and serviced them myself from parts by trying to stay true to some std's ... ie. 32h rim/hubs (so I can lace rim & hubs from diff manufacturers), std frames (27.2/30.9/31.6 seatposts, threaded BB’s and 1 1/8 steerers) but have ventured into the disc era now which changed so much.

 

There is just so many variables now …. It’s getting more difficult to find/elect a standard to stay with to future-proof?

 

Sad but true, dis hoe dit is ...

[dev null]

I don't see the problem. 

 

Rode left-front for more than 30 years on my bikes. Got on a motorbike for the first time in my life and it wasn't a problem at all. 

 

I prefer the priority brake on my dominant hand. For cycles it is rear brake on right hand in my case, and for bikes front brake. I ride my bike 3 times or more a week, and I never have any issues.

[GhostSixFour]

Agree 100% person. Some people just feel the need to shove their ***** down other peoples throats when it comes to personal preference. Don't be that guy. Keep it in your pants.

 

I honestly can't see the claimed benefit going from boost to super boost. Marketing at it's finest. Stiffness 

 

Same with 31.8 vs 35 on bars. It's still a bar that you hold onto. Don't tell me that one is stiffer or more responsive to trail chatter etc. I did not notice a difference when I "upgraded". 

 

Ps. You have great taste in moto! I see a Vitpilen 701 in my future for commuting and some weekend fun. 

Yeah, Vitpilen is more manageable than the Zwartpilen - not as big.

[DR ◣◢]

Yeah, Vitpilen is more manageable than the Zwartpilen - not as big.

 

We should take this to the motorbikes thread but I'm used to a Harley Roadster. Big and heavy bike so the Zwartpilen won't be an issue.