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Loadshedding solutions


ChrisF

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Busy checking stock with Live Sustainable, but they don't have (ETA is end Januworry).

Will try Centurion branch of Geyserwise. 

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I built a little "box" with a Sonoff TH16 smart switch and a 25A contactor. The contactor does the heavy lifting to supply the power to the geyser and the contactor is controlled by the Sonoff. I did a small retrofit with the TH16 temperature probe that allows me to measure the temperature of the geyser.

My PV system is controlled via ICC on a Raspberry Pi. This connects directly to the Sonoff and allows me to not only control the time of day the geyser runs, but all also set parameters such as temperature cut offs etc. The brilliant part of this setup is that it allows the Pi to switch off the geyser if the load of the house gets too high. 

I have an 7.2kW inverter and it is a 4kW geyser. If the dishwasher and kettle are also run at the same time, it would ordinarily overload the inverter. Instead, if the load goes above 6500W, the Pi switches off the geyser until the house load reduces and then switches the geyser back on. Works like a charm.

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52 minutes ago, Frosty said:

They have stock at the Centurion branch, for both the Max and TSE panels.

Can I order online or need to go there physically?

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1 hour ago, TheoG said:

Can I order online or need to go there physically?

Physical store, by the looks of it.

I can get one for you, if it’s out your way. Let me know, my number is in the WA DOC group, or the other app they used.

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51 minutes ago, Frosty said:

Physical store, by the looks of it.

I can get one for you, if it’s out your way. Let me know, my number is in the WA DOC group, or the other app they used.

Yes please, I would appreciate if you can.  Check for Theo Grové on the WA DOC group or will send you a PM tom.

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On 1/10/2023 at 1:54 PM, HdB said:

Our garage batteries are one 24V 3.something-A for each door
I'm wondering if I could change them to 2x12V7A lithiums, because the current ones do not last.

Tried this - doesn't work - amps are too low for the motor.

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15 minutes ago, M L said:

Tried this - doesn't work - amps are too low for the motor.

Bugger. I was hoping two in series would be enough.

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16 minutes ago, M L said:

Tried this - doesn't work - amps are too low for the motor.

I got 2 x 12V 7Ah GEL batteries on my garage door, working like a charm.  Not sure why 2 x Li wont be able to push enough current ... 🤷‍♂️

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Although putting in the lithium batteries into alarms and gate motors will be much better, as they should last a lot longer, the problem is the chargers that are built into these units. The majority of the chargers that installed are designed for lead acid batteries, meaning you won't be able to make full use of the new lithium batteries.

The chargers limit the current and the lithium batteries are able to handle much higher charge currents. The other concern is the charge voltage. Usually these chargers charge at a higher voltage which can damage the lithium batteries.

Something to consider when changing out the 12V 7.2Ah battery in your 10 year old alarm system.

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1 minute ago, Frosty said:

I have one 24V, 2.4A battery on my garage door (double wooden door which is very heavy). It’s the coil springs that do the hard work, not the motor.

 

Very valid point.

 

Unclip the motor drive ... open and close the door by hand ... it should be EASY, both ways.  If it gets heavy the door/springs needs a service, and it is putting way too much stress on the motor and battery

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On 1/10/2023 at 3:08 PM, The Ouzo said:

Had a chat to centurion,  from what I explained it did not sound out of the norm.

We had had a 2 hour LS stint earlier in the day, plus this looooooong stint last night. The motors have a safety circuit built in, if the voltage drops below 23v it wont operate the motor, this is to save the electrics and batteries. 

When I connected to the batteries this morning when power was back I was seeing 23v, normal operating voltage should be around 27v according to the guy I spoke to.

I'm going to have to do some diagnostics on the one door. Its opening and closing slowly, the app is telling me the supply voltage is low. Since both motors feed off the same mains supply it might be the charger or even the battery that is a problem.

Battery voltage is showing 26.6 on the app so is below the 27v that centurion said it should be at.

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2 minutes ago, The Ouzo said:

I'm going to have to do some diagnostics on the one door. Its opening and closing slowly, the app is telling me the supply voltage is low. Since both motors feed off the same mains supply it might be the charger or even the battery that is a problem.

Battery voltage is showing 26.6 on the app so is below the 27v that centurion said it should be at.

 

Some doors actually run off the battery, with the charger not being able to supply the full current.

 

If your battery is toast you may see low voltage as the charger is trying to power the motor ....

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1 hour ago, M L said:

Tried this - doesn't work - amps are too low for the motor.

Problem with load shedding is the time between charges are to short. You can do this if you convert the setup to connect a lithium victron charger to the lithiums. And use them disconnecting the main charger 

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46 minutes ago, The Ouzo said:

I'm going to have to do some diagnostics on the one door. Its opening and closing slowly, the app is telling me the supply voltage is low. Since both motors feed off the same mains supply it might be the charger or even the battery that is a problem.

Battery voltage is showing 26.6 on the app so is below the 27v that centurion said it should be at.

What amps you pulling a correct door should weigh no more than 10 kilos. Then it's heavy. 5 is ideal. The heavier the door the more stain on motor. The motor should open without the batteries. If not charger faulty

 To test if the battery of charger causes fault disconnect batteries and test again. 

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