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Titan Racing vs Giant/Trek/Specialized


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14 hours ago, Kyle CT said:

Hi, thanks so much!

My main question is, is Titan Racing good as I am not that familiar with it and would you suggest buying a brand new titan over a second hand Giant/Specialised for the same price?

Thank you!

I've had 2 TR bikes - 1 was my very first bike, a HT (stolen). I cannot recall the model name.

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Then my second was their first series of gravel bikes. I loved that bike so much, and it too was stolen.

image.png.7f0c7af1f93400d5f1c24ad11b5611f4.png

So, if my experience is anything to go by, you're looking at a 100% stolen rate 🤣

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12 hours ago, peetwindhoek said:

SX is ***. Dont think I have experienced anything worse. 

I've never even heard of SRAM SX. 

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12 hours ago, Bicycle Yard WESTERN CAPE said:

Nice do you have reviews he did with a Giant at question or Trek superfly in question ?

Op can search the archives on https://www.treadmtb.co.za

Trek, Giant and Specialized models the op listed have reviews sometime back, should still be there. Although the sites been through some changes.

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5 hours ago, Kyle CT said:

Something else to think about, both of these are bikes are built for descending. 

My first dual suspension was a Giant Trance and although I loved it, I realised after a while that the bike is far too advanced (aggressive, made for gnarly stuff) for 1) my skill level, and 2) my risk appetite.

So I replaced it with an older Momsen Vipa with higher spec components but built for XC. This was a good fit for the riding I did and enjoyed in Gauteng.

Then I moved to the WC and I pushed that Momsen to its limit in the rocky, gnarly, flowy stuff that I'm blessed to live amongst. I loved how fast it was on the flat and dusty stuff, but as my skill improved I longed for longer travel in the back.

So this year I replaced the Vipa with a Titan Cypher 120. To me it hits the sweet spot between being fast enough on the flats, and lively enough to eat some Klipwerf DHs (IYKYK).

So all this just to say, if this is your first dual suspension, consider going for something less gravity focused, unless you know you'll be spending most of your time out of the saddle on singletrack descents - lugging a +140mm-travel enduro rig across gravel roads and jeeptrack is just not as fun as it could be.

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@JayLow thank you for your feedback..

The more I speak to people the more I am looking at a new Titan…

My main trails are around Tygerberg and not huge jumps but I feel being 100kg and 6.1 foot tall I need some decent components with more than 100mm suspension travel but I am not sure and Im trying to stay away from X fusion components as I had a Silverback before and it just did not seem to handle my weight 

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29 minutes ago, Kyle CT said:

@JayLow thank you for your feedback..

The more I speak to people the more I am looking at a new Titan…

My main trails are around Tygerberg and not huge jumps but I feel being 100kg and 6.1 foot tall I need some decent components with more than 100mm suspension travel but I am not sure and Im trying to stay away from X fusion components as I had a Silverback before and it just did not seem to handle my weight 

I'm 6'3 95kg and 120mm is plenty. Even 100mm was fine for majority of my riding. You can dial the suspension to suit.

Most of the time there's different levels of quality with all the brands. Wheels are the main place where weight matters, so get some chunky wheels (I have Lyne AMP 30 alloy) and you're golden. Boost spacing and thiccr stanchions (32mm or higher) on your fork will also help with stiffness.

 

I've been happy with my X-F dropper and rear shock so far, reckon if I service it and keep it at the correct pressure the spokes will break before they do.

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2 hours ago, Andreas_187 said:

With a MTB definitely buy new 

I disagree, I have had great success with used mountain bikes. Like buying a car if you know what to look for you can tens of thousands of rand of the purchase price (even at OPs budget, which is about the same as my budget). Being luxury items, MTBs have similar depreciation rates to new cars, so a demo/slightly used model would be much cheaper than an equivalent new.

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20 hours ago, Kyle CT said:

I did the following, I think you should too.

Make a list:

Fork

Shock

Crankset

Chain

Cassette

Shifters

Brakes

hubs

rims

tyres

Then take each bikes spec and price(or as close as possible) the replacement part you will soon see they all run a balance, some things they go cheaper on and some more expensive. Different brands vary. But you will soon see which bike has a higher value in the parts.

Then check the big picture items. Number of bottle cages, geometry, suspension travel etc and see there is nothing majorly obviously different or better there. example a bike needs 2 bottle cages in my opinion, anything less is a waste of time, this is Africa and we have 30deg heat regularly in summer.
From that table comparing them you ill have a logical comparison to decide from. 

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14 hours ago, JayLow said:

I disagree, I have had great success with used mountain bikes. Like buying a car if you know what to look for you can tens of thousands of rand of the purchase price (even at OPs budget, which is about the same as my budget). Being luxury items, MTBs have similar depreciation rates to new cars, so a demo/slightly used model would be much cheaper than an equivalent new.

The problem is when you go and buy a 2nd hand bike for 35k and then realise it has an issue with a shock or fork or the bearings are shot and then you're immediately in for another 7k and the cassette and chain are on their way out not long after. Before you know it you've spent 45k and this is before you find out if there are any issues with the shock or the dropper of the shifter or the wheels or the BB.

 

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24 minutes ago, Andreas_187 said:

The problem is when you go and buy a 2nd hand bike for 35k and then realise it has an issue with a shock or fork or the bearings are shot and then you're immediately in for another 7k and the cassette and chain are on their way out not long after. Before you know it you've spent 45k and this is before you find out if there are any issues with the shock or the dropper of the shifter or the wheels or the BB.

 

Not all 2nd hand bikes are vrot 

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15 minutes ago, Prince Albert Cycles said:

Not all 2nd hand bikes are vrot 

From the OP's initial post I would guess that he wouldn't know what is vrot and what is not.

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16 minutes ago, Prince Albert Cycles said:

Not all 2nd hand bikes are vrot 

Agree, and it's not that difficult to spot a vrot bike, if you know what to look for.

E.g., when I bought my Titan I saw the frame was still basically mint (no crashes), the chain was still above 0.75, it had the factory tyres on (they looked new), the brake rotors still had their orange tags, and, above all, the previous owner fitted an aftermarket stem very high angle. This told me that not only was the bike lightly used, the person riding it was not a risk taking boy racer, it's probably someone who cruised the Spruit trail, leisurely.

If all else fails, get a friend to go with you, or get your LBS to have a look.

I saved more than R20k on my bike (new versus used), so I knew that even if I had to replace something major, I'd go a long way before the deal turned bad.

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