dasilvarsa

Yes Stock is a Problem.

B Screw Adjustment Way out of Spec. (Turned all the way in.) Guide Pulley way too far from Cassette. Click Click only After Turning Left then it goes away.

Shield Car Wash 1 Tablespoon in a Bucket of Water.

As He Said

I'm Also Trying a Sealant That's Supposed to Stay Fluid. (not turn to Porridge) I ride Mixed Road and Gravel Also about 13 Hours a Week (660 Km in February) so my Back Tyres Don't Last that Long and I like Fresh Rubber. I recently did an experiment on an old tyre that still had about 50ml of Stans sealant.(and a lot of porridge inside from topping up). I punctured it with a small star screwdriver rode the bike and it did not seal. (The Latex seems to deactivate after a while so there is fluid inside but it does nothing.) Yes as you state Tubeless requires a lot of expensive maintenance just to keep them inflated and maybe give some puncture protection and a softer ride. I often wonder if it's actually worth it.

Sealant Dries in Air Making that Porridge That You See in the Picture. It's unavoidable with the heat etc etc. I'm Now Trying 200 ml with a new back Tyre. Not going to Top Up. Not Going to Deflate. Just plug punctures from the outside. Gonna See if it lasts the life of the back tyre. Tubeless is actually a Pita but I like the challenge. I've also come to the conclusion that as far as Tubeless is concerned Maxxis is the Best tyres. They actually stay inflated without sealant when Brand New.

If you Put your Full Weight on One Pedal (100Kg) it Is Possible to Damage or Bend the Pedal. Spinning bikes tend to Have Chinese Made (Not Top) Pedals and Yes I have seen Damaged Pedals. Most Common is that the Plastic Cracks At the Steel Insert for the Bearings. Maybe the Gym Honcho meant this kind of damage but just called it the Crank being in a Cranky Mood. The Steel Crank Arms Will Not Bend.

You Looking @ about 7k for the Parts(Kit) + Front Chain ring.The Rear Hub Might have to be replaced or a New Wheel or at Least a Microspline Freebody. Depending on the Bike it might be more cost effective to sell the Bike and buy a new bike with 1X12 already Fitted. You don't get many second hand parts that are 1x12 compatible. https://www.cyclelab.com/product/shimano-slx-m7100-12spd-upgrade-kit-excl-hubs?utm_campaign=12444251675&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=501737970148&utm_term=&adgroupid=117878761149&gclid=CjwKCAiAp4KCBhB6EiwAxRxbpGzbAaufoXwxIqUlH2jjOXhxAQRQSTw4gdO-5eIHGgPlHo067NwJ-hoCewoQAvD_BwE In my View the Benefit of 2 Extra Gears is Quite Irrelevant. 1X10 11-42 at the Back and 32 or 34 in Front is a solid system.

Well Done Looks Nice.

Hope You Have a Speedy Recovery, The Bicycle Will be Waiting For You.

About 20k

I use Maxxis Ardent Race 2.35 and They Are Pretty Good. The Latest Ones actually Stayed Inflated without Sealant. (Last Week I fitted them to Merida 120) Although When they get past 50% I Finish them Off With Tubes on my Hardtail.

Good Show, Well Done. Here's Some Secrets for Tubeless. Ride a Lot, Tubeless likes to be ridden, The Tread will wear out before the Sealant Expires and the tyres begin to crack. Start the Tubeless With a Brand New Tyre and at Least 175 mL. I Like to Use 200 mL. (2.35 tyres) Don't Leave Tyres Flat. If you are going to Store the Bike for a While Remove the Sealant and Store it in a sealed Bottle. Wash and Store the tyres. If you use the same tyres front and back when the back wears Rotate the front to the back and buy a new one for the front. If you are not actively riding. At least once a week Top Up Air and Just Ride Up and Down the Road a few times. Don't Release Air from the tyres as some of the Liquid and Gasseous components of the Sealant will come out with the air leaving the Solid Component behind making the porridge thicker. Once it Gets too thick it will dry. If your sealant is not CO2 Compatible. Do Not use CO2 even for a short period. It will damage the Sealant. Finally If you only ride your bike Occasionally, Say Once a Month - Use Tubes. Ride a Lot is the Biggest Untold Secret.

I would finish those tyres off on Tubes. Tubes actually work out cheaper than Sealant Long Term.

Someone else phoned and offered more. This happens a lot with bikes. Not so much with components.

Technically, No !

Don't Waste my Money on Slide On Grips When Lock on grips are now Available @ Reasonable Prices. Slide on Grips will always give you a problem when you least Expect it.

Mudguards help a lot in keeping Mud and Dirty water off your Face.

Setting the Bead on a Brand New Tubeless Tyre. Tyre is Dry Straight out of the Packaging Rim is Clean and Dry. The Tool is a Tyre Liner from Sportsman's Warehouse. Stretch it tight over the tread. You can use any pump even a medium volume Hand Pump works.

I use Shield Car Wash neat and a Nail Brush to decontaminate Disks. (off the Bike) You have to Work Both Sides for a long time to get it all out, rinsing in between. The Contaminant (oil) is not only on the Surface it is also in the holes of the disk. I Avoid Oil Based chain lubes. Riding a lot on the road also causes disk contamination. Your The Problem Might or Might Not be Disk Contamination but it easy to eliminate. Alcohol dilutes the Oil. Alcohol Evaporates Oil Stays Behind.

It also depends where you live. 20-25 mm Rims work Fine in Gauteng but Would Work Badly in Cape Town. In Cape Town you really need 30-34 mm Rims and the Widest Tyre You can Find. Mud Clearance is not an Issue.

The Slime Sealant is Compatible with Co2.

If the Frame is wide enough at the back you can run 30 mm at the back. If the Frame is narrow you will get Mud Wearing out the Chainstays If the Frame is narrow then 30 mm in front and 20-25 mm at the back.

When U Take A Tubeless Tyre off a Rim, That Thing is like a Wet Fish. All Slimy and Soggy with Sealant. Imagine Putting that Thing in the Boot of Your Car, Best to Just Put it in the Dumpster.

Speak to Garmin, I believe it's a common Issue on FR235. https://forums.garmin.com/sports-fitness/running-multisport/f/forerunner-230-235/112735/cracked-screen-broken-glass-anybody#pifragment-480=2