NINER_boy

Yaaaawwwwnnnn! So glad it's weekend, and the wind is howling out

This stuff works a charm. Lasts 3x longer to any other lube application I have tried (and I have almost tried them all) https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/117620-best-chain-lube-for-mtb/ See this thread as well

+2 links XX Chain fit instructions.pdf

Rock, what is your 1x front chainring size?

Headset, stem torque (on steerer and handlebar) chainring bolts grease and torque check BB (again) QR front and rear Check that your cables move freely and not "stuck" somewhere on the newly painted frame Pedals Dropout grease and torque That is about all of it, I think... Let us know where / what the problem was.

Just read on MTBR forums as well, 168

Hi I FLY I have a rotor crank and Qring on my Niner SS. It works like a charm, you just need to set chain the tension at the "biggest" part of the Q ring, and whoilla. Yes, the tension "ups" and "downs" as the Q ring rotates, but not enough for chain drop. I have been riding like this for over 12months, and NEVER dropped a chain. Just check the tension as time goes by, because the chain will "wear" and give more slack. See attached pic

Not really slower, just STRONGER!!!

From here on in, the weight reductions will cost you MORE than the weight's worth in Gold. So, read the attached article, and think again... Death of a Weight Weenie _ 29er Online.pdf

Mineral / dot4 you should be able to get from a motor spares type shop. MUCH cheaper

http://frameskin.com.au/ There are even custom cut kits for bikes. If you just need a section, this might be overkill. I recently ordered a frame-set of skins, and had it on my doorstep in 8 days. Now just waiting for my bike from respray and touch-up, and then to fit the stuff...

R300 Gorilla tape, valves and some Stans See attached article Tubeless conversion Tech Tuesday_ Gorilla Tape Tubeless Conversion - Pinkbike.pdf

Re post...

Dude, in that price class... 3 Biggest considerations: Best wheelset on bike as you buy it. Best groupset Get the one you like the most taking point 1 and 2 into consideration. Happy shopping

On the "lying" note... O have not heard on ANY of the other cheats caught out now (retrospectively) running and telling the world: "Hey, I am a competitive cyclist and dope with EPO etc"... So, they should ALL then be named liars and cheats See attached atricle http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/french-senate-releases-positive-epo-cases-from-1998-tour-de-france

Had a run - in with Momsen about a year or so ago. Bought a new TWEN9AL frame, and built up as single speed. Rode for a week or so, and saw a hairline crack on the lower end of the weld below the seat-tube and seat stays. LBS contacted Momsen, and I had to say, there was a million and one questions and emails going to and fro about setup and seattube length and so on. Yes, all valid questions, but the feeling I got is that they wanted to sidestep the replacement. Another BIG issue for me was the headtube length "incompatibility" with the tapered part of a Rockshock fork. The issue here was that the headtube is so short that the top bearing and compression ring got caught on the fork;s taper WITHOUT reaching the top bearing seat in the headtube. Contacted Momsen, and their suggestion was "to buy a new Fox shock", a 7k exercise. (Not possible for me) My query here mainly related that they state, ON THE WEBSITE, the incompatibility issue with these RebaXX Rockshock tapered steerer models. Eventually replaced. My solution for the headtube issue, I had a crown race machined out of stainless steel, that is double the stack height of a normal crown race, and this sorted the issue. All in all, not impressed in how the situation was handled, to join in with the OP. Well, since I have moved on and no longer own the Momsen. Not bad bikes, local but at a premium, and after sale service needs to be jacked. Happy hoopin

PS, went rigid in the last week, and LOVING it.

Hi Hubbers Here my Niner SS, and to boot I could, would and DO call this my dream bike.

My 2c... All of them are quite level pegged. Now, look for the following: 1. FULL XT or XT setup (and I mean full groupset) 2. GREAT set of wheels, like Stans rims or so. Then last bot not least, get the one YOU would like to ride as well (taking all mentioned points into consideration). A good wheelset can set you back another 6k, so make sure you get the bike with the best complete mix (groupset, wheels and then the one you like) Happy hoopin

+1 Another Hubber who would like to step on Wiener's ACL's...

At last... My chance to step on his knees and morselate his ACL's, left and right!!! The worlds biggest wiener / squealer. Just he didn't cut the grade, even WITH PED's, he then squeals like a pig. I will be the guy knocking the shiznit out of Wiener Hamilton...

Check this Hub add as well https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/54757-ztr-crest-29-white-wheelset/

White rims... http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38860 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=65130 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=76078 There you go Pimped

BUT WHY!!!! The same "engineering" argument will count as for 26" frames that you fit a set of 27.5" wheels to. Stress points on the frame and fork will change from how the structure is designed for. So the short answer... No, don't do it

Wouldn't even buy patch and solution from them...