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M L

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Posts posted by M L

  1. 1 hour ago, TheoG said:

    Sorry not true.  Put a 11sp and 12 sp cassette on a flat table and compare the height, it is the same, hence you need "smaller" shifts for 12sp.

    If the cog spacing differs then there's no way the pull ratio between 11 and 12 speed is the same. 

    Edit: You're contradicting yourself. You just said that your comment was clearly a joke - so given the same pull ratio, sram 11/12 speed rear derailleurs is not shifter dependent. Now you're saying that "you need "smaller" shifts for 12sp."

    Okay dankie baai.

  2. 17 hours ago, TheoG said:

    Apparently the derailleur magically know to shift little bit more or little bit less as soon as you fit a 11 or 12 speed shifter...

    ???? ????

    Sorry but was this a joke or do you really think that rear derailleurs, using the same pull ratio, is shifter dependent?

  3. 17 hours ago, ChrisF said:

    Are you saying the "SHIFTER" has the same distance "per shift" ?

     

    Is the difference in DERAILURE MOVEMENT resolved at the derailure ?

    Not sure what you're asking.

    The 11/12 speed sram shifters moves the cable with the exact same distance, yes.

    The derailleurs move depending on the above. If you're using a 12 speed shifter then it can move to the 12th cog on your cassette, if it's an 11 speed shifter then it can only move to the 11th cog on cassette.

    You can use an 11 speed shifter with a 12 speed derailleur and vice versa.

    The 12 speed derailleur has a longer cage to better accommodate the 50t cog at the back but you can still get an 11 speed sram rear derailleur onto the 12th cog if you use a 12 speed sram shifter for it.

  4. Some people are going to say you can't and that you should stick to each category.

     

    In actual fact, they have the same actuation (SRAM at least has).


    So yes - you can mix and match SRAM 11 and 12 speed drivetrains.

  5. R 1 400 for the tires ... could save a bit here, or pay a lot more, depending on what you want.

     

    R100 for rim tape

     

    R100 for two valves, probably a bit more

     

    R150 for sealant, enough for the install with some spare for topping up

     

    Thats R 1 750 ...

     

    NOT a lot left for labour .... shop is probably making more on the parts than on the labour ....

     

     

    And if there are any issues the shop looses money ....

    Ahh you're right. I misread the post - thought tires were excluded. Ja fair deal then. 

  6. Maxxis Ardent 2.40 in Front

    Maxxis Ardent Race 2.35 Rear or Maxxis Rekon Race 2.40 Rear

    +-  R1400 for Both.

     

    Get a Bike Shop to do it 4 You First Time Around.

    Roughly R2000 Includes Tyres Sealant Valves and Labour.

     

    Get a Tubeless Repair Kit -Plugs- and Inserter and a Valve Core Remover.

    Find Out What Sealant they Put in get a bottle for Top Up. (Top Up At least every 2 Months)

    Get a good Big Pump for Home and a Good Small Pump to carry.

    Get a Good Pressure Gauge.

    No ways I'm wasting R2,000 on the LBS getting it done.

     

  7. Both of the above are superb.

     

    I've had a few pairs, But my 1st pair which is the Mirage i got going on 3 years and they are still as good as new. No chaffing between the legs(and i have big thighs), Chamois still feels great and i racked up over 10 000 kms last year(obviously not all in the same bib but alot of my longer rides,4-5hr plus, were in the Vye bib). The only thing which i've noticed is the little silicone gripper dots have started to peel away, probably from all the warm washes, but the bib fits so well that it still doesn't ride up at all.

    Thanks for the feedback.

     

    Going to purchase a Mirage and try it out.

  8. Okay so just to summarise.

    Finance your bike. But I mean swing for the fences. Get a new Santa Cruz Tallboy 4 with the carbon and AXS bits - you really can't put a price on your health.

    Then also finance your burst geyser, that fancy Bosch washing machine (arguably also a psychological benefit here). While you're at it, get the new BMW 3-series - that one with the lekker vet nostrils (I'm sure it makes the car go faster by sucking in more air).

    But just remember the golden rule: the interest rate on your savings/investment should always be less than the rate at which you finance. Better yet - don't invest your money in any stock market - just leave it with ABSA and see how that 4% per year compounds like Norma Gigaba's testimony at the Zondo commission.

  9. So how much is your health worth then?

    Health is complex and has many facets.

     

    If all you do is cycle then you'll be very fit but your relationship with your wife will be in tatters, you run the risk of being run over by a car, you are more like to get skin cancer at a later stage, etc.

     

    So the price of my health is measured relative to something else.

     

    The price of your health in my opinion is somewhat mutually exclusive and incurs diminishing marginal returns. Going away for a weekend or week is good for your health (if you can afford it). Going on holiday for 1 year or 5 years is arguably bad for your health.

  10. A bike is an investment in yourself and your health. (If cycled regularly). Can’t put a price on that.

     

    By all means finance but understand it’s a very expensive option an generally you can’t negotiate a discount. But if it gets you out there then go for it

    :mellow: of course you can put a price on it.

     

    As mentioned, 2nd hand market or using your bond are better options than turning to Wesbank or the likes.

  11. Thought it appropriate to publicly thank Knipe Racing for exceptionally good service last Friday. My daughter (14) went down for the Bloemendal SA Cup. At practice on Friday morning she came up short on a gap jump and cracked the rear rim. It required a new rim, rebuild and new tyre. We live in Durban, so when my wife called with the news, I tried calling the bigger bike shops in the area.

     

    They, understandably, indicated that even if they had a spare rim, did not have the capacity to re-build the wheel before the race.

     

    My wife phoned and said a local had suggested that we try "Knife Racing". I googled the name and guessed that she meant "Knipe". We were blown away by the willingness to help. The work was done professionally, efficiently and enthusiastically. I know that my daughter's friend from Kzn had a similar issue and she was also helped. Apparently they worked on her bike until 7pm Friday night.  Honestly, kudos to Louis and his team. If any lbs deserves to succeed its yours.

    Superb bike shop  :clap:

  12. I am looking at frames to do a bike build. 

     

    As most will know frames or bike components in general is problematic depending on what you want.

     

    So, there is a frame, 2nd hand or shop demo, carbon and resprayed for R30k.

     

    Would you take the chance?

     

    That is too expensive for a 2nd hand carbon frame (road or MTB). Unless it's something really special.

     

    You'd be better off buying a complete bike and selling all the parts except for the frame.

  13. Having a look around and seeing what options are out there and actually available. I've got a YT Jeffsy with standard DT M1900 rims @ 22.5mm internal width. They getting a bit banged up, the join line on the rear rim has a slight split which weeps sealant and I'd like to try something a bit wider round the 30mm width. Ride mostly AM style maybe Enduro.

     

    What would other look at, that are decent, affordable and actually available?

     

    Like the Idea of some Spanks, but they don't seem to be available in the required options, Lyne is out of stock a lot and Rapide doesn't even have just rim options available in 29"

     

    Also been pondering over this lately. I'm however leaning more towards trail applications.

     

    What I could find is:

    - Lyne (30mm ID)

    - Csix (30mm ID) - slightly heavier than the Lyne.

     

    Following this.

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