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11 minutes ago, DieselnDust said:Not terribly surprising
X, only one chromosome so to be expected
Hairy , hairy Hairy (did you see what I did there with the comma?!)
The freedom to travel comes with great responsibility. With great power comes great responsibility. When my 22yr old daughter wanted to know why she can’t drive my 169kw hatch back I said she’ll just arrive at the accident faster. We have made it too easy to travel fast but have not trained people sufficiently at those speeds. Panic sets in , poor decision making under pressure etc etc. Simply because a freedom is available to us does not give us the right to jump out of a plane with a bag of silk worms and hope for the best. There is a responsibility to make sure you know how to land isn’t there?
I get your point about acceptable risk. However it is not cyclists that create those risks. Your point is poor as it creates an excuse for criminals to ply their trade as criminals and blame the victims for being there to be victimised.
I get that we face risk everyday but I can t buy into victim blaming
You’re so right that we don’t train people to drive fast, or even drive properly at all. Driving lessons focus on teaching you to pass the test, not to drive properly. My son just did his advanced driver training a year after he got his licence and is a different quality of driver altogether now. I’m learning from some of the stuff he does now, even though I’ve been driving for 35 years.
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1 minute ago, The Ouzo said:I started reading, left a comment, tried to carry on reading and decided the juice wasnt worth the squeeze.
People are *holes
Less and less empathy on social media now. More and more aggression. There is a hierarchy of vulnerability for road users and it is good to remember that a “mistake” when driving a car or motorcycle that results in you hitting a more vulnerable road user is likely to have far worse consequences for them than a mistake when cycling or walking.
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Thought about this thread when listening to this last night. Really interesting, especially th le second half.
https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/the-real-science-of-sport-podcast/id1461719225?i=1000645493021
53 minutes ago, Prince Albert Cycles said:Each to his own . But I won’t change to 1 x 12 . So many advantages of sticking with much cheaper cassettes chains etc . Yes 1 x is simpler and neater and lighter . I run 1 x 11 on my mtb …again cheaper than 1 x 12 and 2 x10 on my gravel bike . Just closer range on the 2 x10 is just so nice . Got my helmet on so throw those stones 😇
My worry is more about having a mechanical somewhere and parts not being easily available. Struggled to get parts recently.
1 hour ago, Shebeen said:Is it just me or is there a guy in black leather outfit looking down?
If he is at fault, speeding and overtaking (which seems to be the case) then I hope a name and shame comes down hard. legal action too.
In the whole car vs bike debate, how do motorbikers seemingly get a free pass?
There are PLENTY of them who have super high powered machines and treat sunday roads as their racetrack. They think they are valentino rossi and the rest of us must just shake our heads at their incredibly tiny penises as they put everyone at risk? Surely the responsible motorbikers are really pissed off by this behaviour too?
Agree with you 100% about the motorcyclists. Was chatting to a contractor at work the other day about motorbikes after he saw me with a helmet. He was telling me about the frustration he has with cyclists when he’s out on a Sunday morning super bike run on country roads and comes around a corner at 100mph and nearly connects a group of cyclists who are “hogging the road”.
On 2/13/2024 at 1:42 PM, droo said:First thing we need to know is what rear hub you have.
If it's got a steel HG (old Shimano) driver, you can get 12sp cassettes from SRAM or Sunrace that will fit, but if you can get the Shimano Microspline driver you'll have a much better experience overall.
The rest is plug and play.
As far as I can work out, it is the Microspline driver
2 hours ago, Dirk93 said:Thanks, then the problem almost certainly sits with the tow ball itself. I asked Thule and their feedback was that the bike is too big and the carrier was not made for that, which surely is not the issue.
fair enough - haven’t heard that before. Mine regularly has my XL anthem and my road bike on with no issues, even in long trips. I wonder if speed plays a part. I seem to remember something about not travelling over 60mph with the carrier on.
1 hour ago, Dirk93 said:Hi All
I'm hoping anyone might have some advice for me. I have a Thule Express 2 tow ball-mounted bike carrier. It works just fine but one issue is that it keeps swivelling on the tow ball. One of the wheels catches the wind an the carrier will turn so much that the other side of my bike hits my car and scratches it badly. I do not know if this is just because I have an XL bike, but pretty sure the carrier itself is not supposed to do that.
I have the same carrier and XL bikes - never had this problem. Suspect, as Prego said, there's an issue with the ball or the carrier. I wouldn't be comfortable using a carrier that had movement in it.
1 minute ago, droo said:First thing we need to know is what rear hub you have.
If it's got a steel HG (old Shimano) driver, you can get 12sp cassettes from SRAM or Sunrace that will fit, but if you can get the Shimano Microspline driver you'll have a much better experience overall.
The rest is plug and play.
Thank you - I’ll have a look later when I’m home
4 minutes ago, Koos Likkewaan 2 said:Even better. If it is TA already, it is one less thing to worry about. To find the QR end cap that works with the 12spd freebody can be a little difficult. TA, not so much.
Now the challenge is to find the correct freebody for the hub on your new wheelset, but that should not be to difficult.
Thanks 🙏
Interesting articles in the context of this discussion
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4 minutes ago, Koos Likkewaan 2 said:Very doable.
2 x crank will do the job. Just remove the chainrings and fit a NW ring.
Biggest challenge will be the hub freebody. If you still have the giant branded wheels in there, it should have a rebranded DT Swiss hub, which will make this freebody change easy. Even if QR. I just fitted a Microspline Freebody to a Giant PX1 QR wheel without issues.
That 2016 frame also have removable dropouts, so you can run either QR or TA.
From there it is just a matter of checking chain line and of you go.😁
Thank you - wasn’t aware of the QR option. When the frame was replaced I had to pay for new wheels due to no QR. I appreciate the advice
I’ve searched the forum and can’t find the info I need, and the internet seems to have much contradictory info, so here’s hoping for some hub wisdom.
I have a giant anthem 29er. It’s a bit of a hodge podge of components as I have replaced bits and pieces as they break, including the frame after my 2014 frame broke and giant replaced it with a 2016 frame.
Due to parts availability (or lack thereof), I would like to convert the bike to a 1x12, but don’t know if this is feasible. Has anyone done something similar before or have knowledge of whether this is doable?
2 hours ago, The itch said:if an Ebike is capable of speeds in excess of 25 kph then they are required to be licensed to ride on a public road in the UK - is this true? seems a bit over the top
Not just licenced, but subject to the laws related to licensing. So manufactured to motorcycle safety expectations etc
2 hours ago, dasilvarsa said:@BigDL Posting for the sake of Posting.
MEE TOO
Why be a knob?
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1 hour ago, ChrisF said:
Different strokes for different folkes ....
More to the point - the ride of the day has a huge impact on when, and how often, you use higher power settings on an ebike.
For the purpose of illustration:
- 250W maximum assist
- 500W.h battery
Now if you truly used full boost then you will drain the battery in 2 hours (seriously over simplified, but close enough for this purpose)
Now if you are doing a few laps of a trail and you USE your ebike as a "chair lift", hey why not use the boost ? If it is the fun factor that gets you to feel young, GO FOR IT !
Doing a 50km MTB ride the game changes totally. Now battery conservation has to be part of your thinking ..... Are you keeping the juice for the head wind, or are you keeping it for a particular climb ? Rest of the time you are going to be in Eco-mode.
Long rides on tar .... whole different approach. You only use the boost when absolutely needed.
Road racing, yet another approach. I take a spare battery, and I know just how hard I can push it to complete the route as fast as possible ... but the strategy changes fast if the wind comes into play. Also something which often happen in races - I use a slightly higher power setting, thus getting up to speed quicker, and maintaining speed up slight inclines better. BUT, due to the pace of these events I spend a LOT of the flats above the speed-assist limiter, thus not using any battery for long stretches ... suddenly a long climb and I use a higher assist level and can see the battery dropping faster .... it becomes a little mind game to see just how hard you can push it, and not drag a lead sled back the last 10 km ....
A lot more to it than just up the power and GO ..... the large number of ebikes running out of juice on the CTCT confirms this.
And YES - I have also maxed the motor to get a KOM on a hill climb. Vines and Views 2023 I put in the hours and worked towards the Skaapkop hillclimb. On the day I stretched my first battery as far as possible, swopping out 10km before the hill climb. Last 3km I sat up and slowed down, getting my breathing and heart rate down. 50m before the climb it was FULL BLAST !! e-bike in full turbo, and my in max heart rate as well !! I blasted up there and got the KOM..... well, until two school kids blasted the field off the mountain 🤣 IF I do V&V2024 I most certainly WILL practice even harder, and try to beat MY OWN time. (my time was logged as an ebike before the prize giving)
Presumably an ebike KOM?
18 hours ago, MudLark said:I have read other sites suggesting popping the battery. I am doubtful of the wisdom. If all.else fails, I will have the battery repacked.
Please please please don't pop a Lithium battery because someone on the internet said so. If you have a thermal event, you will *** bricks. We've had a few over the years and that's in a controlled environment. I would hate to have one at home.
5 minutes ago, dasilvarsa said:If you can get inside the unit Just pop the plastic with a pin. I do it to RC Helicopter batteries and they work normal after. Don't Know about Garmin Batteries but it should be the same technology.
If you’re saying to pop the swollen battery with a pin, then that is incredibly bad advice. My team deals with dozens of device battery changes a day, but we have a protocol that kicks in with swollen batteries that requires special handling, packaging and shipping rather than dealing in house with them as the risks are very high of a thermal event. If I’ve misunderstood your advice, apologies and ignore the above but sticking a pin into a swollen lithium ion battery is not something to ever do.
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5 minutes ago, love2fly said:My racing days are mostly behind me but for sure, if I ever buy an e-bike, which is unlikely, I will derestrict it on the very same day!
I don't think you can correctly assess an e-bike class or even an event like the e-bike world's (won by Alan Heatherly previously). It's not just about derestriction. How do you determine if a bike pushes out an extra 50W? You could "dyno" them but it's not practical and you could hide a competition mode in the software.
The only way would be as per Karting races where the engines go into a pool, which is impractical in the e-bike scenario.
Could you perhaps do it by battery capacity, almost like go as fast as you like but you're restricted to X or Y capacity battery for the event, so battery management becomes important?
For Sani this year, because we're doing the trail, which is where the e-bikers are located as well if I understand correctly, I had to select what type of bikes we were riding (e-bike or regular). Presumably they use this info to separate the motor supported guys from the non motor supported groups. It did get me wondering though about the extra organisational ball ache of providing enough charging points for e-bike batteries and creating rules about how many batteries you can use etc. - presume it's just another layer of complexity, but maybe balanced out by the increase in entries as folks who maybe wouldn't do events without e-bikes now have that option.
Stopped in at the Chain Reaction Retail Store yesterday to say cheers to a couple of the guys there that I have dealt with on and off over the years. The store is in "everything must go" mode, although 99% of stuff is gone already. A few components and clothes at 80% discount in a couple of areas and maybe 4 or 5 bikes for sale at 60% discount.
Was reminiscing about what a part CRC played in the promotion of mountain biking in Ireland. Sponsorships of trail centres and riders, support for community groups etc. the public used to be able to go up to their warehouse in the old days pre new retail store and there was always someone to fetch items for you to look at, try on etc. Really weird to not have them in Northern Ireland now in any way.
When the merger happened, the owners received significant cash as part of the deal, so at least they got the benefit of their work I suppose.
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3 hours ago, HenkD said:Well i have a good relationship with my lbs but he knows he has to give me the best possible price when i walk in. He nows that if it is alot cheaper elsewhere i will buy it there. I recently gat a cassette and chain from CL(not pricematch just on special) and service was good and speedy delivery. But i will rather use pricematch from my LBs and support him that going to pricematch from CL.
Price match is not always possible for a small LBS, so then you must decide if you’re willing to pay a premium to keep a local relationship. Before CRC fell to bits, my bike mechanic used to sometimes send me there to buy the parts for cheaper than his cost price and then he charged me his hourly rate to do the work
On 1/8/2024 at 8:31 AM, Roul said:Haven't read through everything said, but will also consider leaving Strava if it gets too much.
For now, I wonder the impact of this will be long-term:
https://press.strava.com/articles/strava-appoints-google-executive-michael-martin-as-ceo
interesting to read in that article that strava has been profitable for the past four years. Seems like the move to restrict non subscribers access to some features a few years back has paid off.
Hopefully he’ll not be pushing to sell ads and our personal data Google style
1 hour ago, Shebeen said:10yr old stock. On consignment the whole time or paid for and now they want credit/new stock?
Good luck to the book keepers
Bought and paid for years ago. He reckons that they must have had heaps of stuff in warehouses for years and years. He said that they tried to return stuff that they his employer hasn’t stocked for 5 years
Motorists vs Cyclists.... again
in Cycling Safety
Posted
There is a hierarchy though. The bigger or faster your vehicle (car or motorbike), the more the responsibility lies with you not to behave in a way that puts others lives at risk.