Dirkitech

Sigma's BC 16.12 STS with cadence magnet... for about R900, which is just R140 more than what Rietvlei's thehub shop wanted for an BC12.12. <--- Gets charged stupid prices locally, then imports better products for less. eff me, right? http://www.sigma-topline2012.com/templates/tl2012/images/bc1612/ueberblick/highlight-us-1.jpg

Thanks for sharing this!

heck yeah, been looking for something like this! checking the site out right now

I used to play with lego, until I grew up and discovered meccano! stuff like this pic... just awesome http://meccrl.free.fr/images/gbsc-h/meca4.jpg

interesting review- and appreciated! By any chance will there be a review/comparison between the 3k and the models just below it in lumen output?

wow, talk about overkill. should be in school learning about metals not riding on a bike so expensive that the kid doesn't have any comprehension of how it got from point a, atoms to point b, a 100k epic. whatever

Ask the seller for a service history and shop it was serviced at. If none- be warned. If you get a shop name, phone them and confirm that they have serviced it once/many times, follow up still.

chuckled when I saw this... Meh, im speechless on both counts.

Hi again all, I'm going to see if I can get the hub opened up and see whether there is indeed grease accumulated on one side. Glenferness? Heck thats quite a drive, but I appreciate you mentioning it! Stuff like this is things I don't know yet- what is a QR and what does it have to do with the hub and what does the sizing relate to. Would someone please be so kind as to explain at which parts of the hub I have to look at to determine what type, size and quality hub I have?

looks like a fanny pack on the top tube hahaha. Oh well, interesting construction though I wont deny it. Maybe for mark 2 we can get the exhaust blowing a long stream to 5 o clock when riding the bike, so that motorists that infringe on the 1.5m's safety clearance get a screen full?

I partly agree with you. Yes I would do that if I was not riding top leagues competitively. No, I wouldn't do that is I cycled top leagues competitively. I really don't see how you can inadvertently make such a 'mistake' when cycling at that level. Heck, I hear all these stories how the top athletes measure their lettuce by the bloody grams, so how much more strict are they when it comes to chemicals? bad chad.

Hi all =) I skim read through some of the replies and see some interesting things. As for the sludge part, its a new tube and new tyre. A spoke was replaced about a month ago and that included a truing of the wheel. On Saturday I heard a same clank I heard in PE before a spoke broke (although extensive inspection still doesn't reveal any spoke even remotely coming close to another object). Tonight I will take a short videoclip of the rocking so that people can decide for themselves whether it is severe or common. Point remains, I have no clue as to what to call my hub's technical features and don't know what technical specifications would be important in replacing my current hub and when shopping for a new hub in general.

"hey bruh, pliz pazz ma bjeeer" *passes beer and hands an injection* "thx bruh!....*injects himself*... hey bruh, wtf, you just drugged me" friend" skies bruh, was 'n ongeluk". anyone else has a more realistic explanation as to how one inadvertently use steroids/drugs?

Ah, totally forgot to mention that. I've had to replace a spoke on the rear tire about 1.5 months ago. If I remember correct they also made a reference to the hub as opposed to the rim being bent/dented somewhere. I will have my lbs take a look at it as soon as I can to confirm if its the hub (a thanks is in order David, you may or may not have saved me from unnecessarily buying a new hub). For the purposed of this topic though, lets assume the hub axle was bent on a curb snakebite and that it needs replacing- how do I go about diagnosing what hub specs I have?

Hi all, As the title states I have no idea how to determine what my rear hub specifications are. My rear hub bearings still spin like new, but there is an off-balance somewhere with the rear wheel area. When I lift the back and step the pedal, the wheel spins well, but the bike rocks up an down slightly when holding it in the air. I tried searching the forum for hub and rear hub but to no avail. Could someone please advice me how to determine my current hub specifications and which of these are important to keep in mind when buying a new hub. I know the hub has the extra part for the disc brake rotor. It says "American Classic" on the hub I haven't counted the spoke-holes as I'm unsure if there are special things that needs to be taken note of. EDIT- added: Its a new tyre with a new slime tube (well, it rocks heavily whether I have the road slicks on or the mtb tyres). A spoke was recently replaced and therefore the whole wheel was trued.

what about this here site? http://www.cipc.co.za/Enforcement_IP_Complaint.aspx would that allow for a suitable outcome against people/companies that sell counterfeits?

R2000 credit? The **** is that supposed to help with? At the very least put it towards legal fees and get the ball rolling. So I am assuming this is the Momsen factory in Port Elizabeth or...? edit: oh wait, Western Cape. My bad Anyways, this utter bulldung is unacceptable. They sold you the bike meaning they advised on a frame and that the frame failing is their mistake for poor advice. A full refund is in order, hoping that you can replace it with a bike that is more appropriate before your race. Goodluck sir.

cant even do my work and I miss the party

So I skipped pages 2 to 6 so I dont know if the name has been mentioned yet, but if it hasn't, what's the point of this thread if we don't know which shop it is to be cautious of?

uh.. which spruit? Braamfontein Spruit?

Hoping hard you succeed

R700 for 6 parts? were you buying 6 bolts that its so cheap? Anyways, I buy off of Chainreactioncycles when I want a specific item or I want to buy an expensive item at much lower cost. I'm ordering a set of pedals tonight for roughly R800 (won't go over R1000 if I get additional tax) and the cheapest in RSA I could find was R1200 for special order anyways. You have until tonight to look and let me know via inbox if you want to discuss a combined shipment

Alright, I hear you. Before I go back, I want to know- is that forum for flagging as a whole or for the specific segment in your OP? As for this: but it is isn't it? rampaging taxi's and outlaw hijacker country... This is in Cape Town, not Gauteng. I am assuming CT is just as bad, if not worse, as I have literally read too many accident and hijack reports from CT the last 2 months to bother to count.

Why do you say XX won't last as long? It's titanium... so relatively strong and also corrosion resistant.. off the top of my head I don't think it rusts at all. Not arguing, I want to know if you know something I/we don't?

Please clarify what you mean with "have a chance". Do you have a chance to get XX components at XO price? Do you have a chance to get XX components at XX price? Do you have a chance to get XX components which are usually not easily available to you? If your concern is as simple as whether the XX price tag is worth the weight saving- when I was faced with the same decision I came to the conclusion that NO, it wasn't.