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JXV

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  1. JXV
    That is not a dragonfly/baby dragonfly munching on the bee. It is commonly known as a robber fly. Family Asilidae. They prey on smaller insects, commonly bees and other flies. I have attached a close-up pic of a similar insect (pic taken with something a bit optically more high end than a phone so I hope it qualifies here). View it on a tablet or monitor for best impact. I wouldn't want to meet one of these in a dream. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  2. JXV
    Phone cameras really good these days but 2 main disadvantages: they aren't too good in low light and the lenses aren't wide enough for the kind of street, architecture and landscapes that I like to shoot. Even the advanced mikendruks are not wide enough. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  3. JXV
    Cool...it's needed a clean up for a while. lots of trees across the trail when I rode it a few months ago. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  4. JXV
    Your brake lever assembly incorporates a reservoir, the lever and the master cylinder driven by that lever. The reservoirs on many modern brakes have a rubber diaphragm that sits on top of the fluid to isolate air from it. The diaphragm allows expansion/contraction of the fluid volume without air contact when the brakes are operated and when they heat up, cool down and when the pads wear. With these designs, if your brakes are properly bled, there is no air in the system and you can turn the bike upside down without air bubbles 'rising' to the caliper. Some fluid may run back to the lever under gravity though (and this partially retract the pads) so you should always pump the levers a few times once the bike is right way up to readjust the pad position. If you do get air this way then your entire system needs to be bled and filled correctly. An intermediate solution is to store your bike vertically on one of those hook thingies. If you adjust it right, you can keep the levers above the calipers while still raising the front axle above the fork crown so that oil in the fork can run up to the wiper seal and foam rings. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  5. JXV
    I've heard the Ardent 2.4s are much better but the 2.25s I have aren't nearly as good as the Spez Purgatory/Ground Control combo I replaced them with. Less grip, less braking, wash out in corners and slower rolling. Heavy. More expensive. Durable though. I recently refitted the Ardents to my old bike and the 'downgrade' was immediately evident. Entered the 1st corner at normal Purgatory pace and washed out..... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  6. JXV
    Good component spec. Your tyre choice is heavy and you could save 400g there quite easily at the expense of some reliability. My Spez rubber with control casings was more than 400g lighter than the 2.25 LUST Ardents it replaced and has lasted 18 months with no major issues except lots of sidewall weeping. Also the dropper costs you another 400g compared to a carbon post....but who would want to lose the dropper on that kind of bike. You could also save some weight on the cranks but at a price. Everything else is already quite light considering the bike's purpose. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  7. JXV
    Running my Hightower with 150mm Pike on 29er wheelset. Rides great and no need to change the fork travel from140 to 150 if you fit a 27.5+ wheelset Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  8. JXV
    I have the same fork exactly. All you need for a lowers service is a decent lubricating oil of 15wt to 20wt. NOTE : lubricating oil, not hydraulic damper oil. There is a difference. In the days before Fox Gold, Fox used 10wt Green (lubricating) for lowers and 10wt Red for dampers. In a pinch you can use a 10W30 or 15W40 multigrade motor oil but I suggest you try and source a litre bottle of Fox 20wt Gold made specifically for this purpose. Slippery as live eels and you can feel the difference when you ride it. Been using it on my fork since new. You don't need damper oil ( Fox 10wt Red) or Float Fluid (Blue, approx. 80wt) for a lowers service but will need these or suitable alternatives for damper cartridge and airspring service respectively ( Your fork is the Factory Kashima version so guessing it has a FiT damper). Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  9. JXV
    Then a cleanout and reassembly should help. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  10. JXV
    Any stickyness on the rubber parts? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  11. JXV
    The black stains make me think the rubber seal has deteriorated. M8000 has not been long enough on the market for age to be the cause but I did hear that some early batches had issues. Can you confirm this brake was never exposed to DOT type brake fluid or oils other than Shimano mineral oil? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  12. JXV
    Lotsa Videos on the web. preferably use the ones on manufacturer's websites...they tend to avoid dodgy shortcuts that some of the private vids show...... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  13. JXV
    It really is an easy job but you do need a basic workshop with bike stand or soft jawed vice to hold the fork, a drip tray/bucket to catch the oil, a soft mallet and on some forks a long 10mm socket so as not to damage the damper shaft. 50ml syringe for measuring and inserting oil is useful too. You do not really need the special tools you see in factory manuals and videos for servicing lowers and seating new seals - you can make a plan with ordinary tools and still do the job perfectly. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  14. JXV
    If you use a torque wrench and do not overtighten the crush washers they can be re-fitted several times without leaking. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  15. JXV

    MTB Hubs Debate

    JXV replied to Caerus's topic in Technical Q&A

    Pro4 has larger diameter spoke flanges to give a slightly stiffer build. They are also now available in boost axle sizes (110/148 axles with spoke flanges about 6mm further apart). If you have non-boost Pro4 hubs you can also get endcap adapters to make them boost compatible. Final change is the slightly faster engagement....now 8.2° from 9° courtesy of a new 44 tooth drive ring. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  16. JXV
    Can't wait..... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  17. JXV
    Great shot. I took the liberty of a bit of on-phone post-processing to give it more impact....hope you don't mind. Crop to adjust composition Brightness down to reduce exposure Saturation up a bit Colour temp 1 step warmer Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  18. JXV

    Review: Scott Spark 940

    JXV replied to Nick's topic in New Gear

    Agree with tester about the twin lock not allowing individual adjustment of front and rear suspension. I also like to leave my fork very plush and stiffen up the rear for pedalling sections of flat trail and for climbing. Also, speccing a 34-24 chainring set with 11-42 rear cassette in a 2x11 setup gives crazy low gearing. 38-28 would be much better, giving same low gear as 24 front with 36 rear but much more speed at the top end. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  19. JXV
    Check out their website. All the maps and access arrangements are thre. You can even download gpx maps of the trails for your gps. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  20. JXV
    Rudi The new M7000 11 speed setup has a 96 bcd and the bolts are in a rectangular pattern on that bcd. You have to get rings that are made specifically for those Shimano cranks. Wolftooth makes them but I dont know who else. Shimano only lists up to a 34t 1x chainring. You could possibly use 36t or 38t 2x chainrings with spacers but they won't have the chain retention features of the 1x specific rings . I got a 34t Wolftooth NW for my XT 1x11 setup from Evobikes and very happy with it. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  21. JXV
    Thanks. Was a great ride too...if a bit muddy. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  22. JXV
    Karkloof in the mist this morning Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  23. JXV
    Didn't see one. Legally in most countries it doesn't need one unless it exceeds a certain pressure and volume threshold....I don't recall the values applicable in SA legislation. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  24. JXV
    I have a high capacity 12V compressor in my 4x4. Remove tyre valve core, smear a little soapy water on the bead and compressor pipe direct onto valve tube. Hang the wheel from the tailgate. Never fails to seat the bead. Then fill sealant, fit the core and pump normally. I can see the advantage of this air tank on trips and in the race carpark if you don't have a compressor. 11 bar is enough. Most domestic and commercial compressors for air tools are regulated to 100psi (about 7 bar) so that's what you'll most likely fill it to. There is enough leeway for a hot car. But if you pump it to 11 bar then rather keep it cool. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  25. JXV
    Chartreuse... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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