RiderX

Nice work and I think its very necessary, but that sign means we cant push up the track either?

I saw these the other day, dont know how they are though: http://bmxdirect.net/evs-glider-lite-knee-pads/

Hi at what pressure do you usually run the tyre? Edit: The reason I am asking is that when you run a very low tyre pressure then that can also cause the tyre to delaminate

Make sure the quick release clamp is properly placed around the seat tube. The split in the seat tube should be lined up with the split in the clamp (hope this sentence makes sense). Otherwise the post will not be clamped properly. Basically you need to rotate the seatpost clamp so that the split will line up with the split in the seat tube.

I agree with this if you're going to get 150mm travel you should rather be riding an aluminium frame. The problem with carbon on such a bike is that when you crash and the frame for example hits a tree/rock then you can seriously damage the frame, while with aluminium you're only going to scratch the paint or in the worst case get a dent in the frame. Otherwise if you dont want to ride that hard then a 120mm trail bike is prob going to be a better option.

Lol I think it needs to be some snake name or something parks seems to like that. BTW does the form itself contain a section which describes the track as it is going to be built? Im sure the guys designed a great track so not too concerned about that, would just be nice (and interesting) to see what exactly you're signing for before signing Just a general description of what we can look forward to seeing in future?

Haha nice logo and I think it is a very good idea aswell

If you buy a helmet over CRC and then smash it up it "might" be a problem to get the local guys to support the helmet replacement program, so that may be a good reason to rather try and get it locally. Edit: Also, a quick question specifically regarding fullface helmets, how do one determine what is a good helmet? Is it mainly about looking out for well-known brands or can one actually look for specific characteristics on the helmet that will show whether it is good/bad?

In my opinion its the guy at the back that wants to pass's responsibility to make sure its done in a safe manner. Especially when passing at high speed you basically say "Passing left/right" and then do it. The rider doesnt ask the guy in front if it is safe to pass since he it should already be safe before attempting to pass. Shout thanks after passing the guy. However if its a singletrack where there is no room to pass and you are going slow enough to actually have a conversation with the guy, then the whole asking thing might work but then it is up to the guy in front to decide when he can ride on the edge of the trail etc to let you through, he does not have to pull off the track.

Just start riding stuff that you feel mildly uncomfortable with then take it from there. You probably see some things now that you never dream of riding but the most rewarding thing is when you come back in a couple of months / a year and then ride it perfectly

Thanks man nice work, one of the best trails in the Cape with something for everyone to enjoy.

Haha that was the best advice of them all + Carry a spoke wrench, chain breaker and chainlinks on every ride

I think the shop should at least advise you when they will be able to handle your query and then offer to call back when they have your answer. Making it the customer's responsibility to continually call the shop for an update isn't very good service imho you got every right to think that.

I also think there needs to be one or 2 at the "Ride before you buy" events that will convert people quick

Id say the Minnaar would be great if you use clipless pedals with a big surrounding body like the crank bros mallet pedals. Idea seems to be that if you unclip for some reason you can just put your foot back on, keep pedalling and then clip in again when you need to. This procedure usually does not work as good with regular cleat shoes which generally have a hard sole with hard rubber/plastic in the middle to keep to shoe extremely rigid. In contrast the 5.10 sole however is going to have great grip on the pedals even when not clipped in since it is also made from stealth rubber. They also take abuse from sharp pedal pins very well and will last for a long time, much longer than sneakers. The shoes themselves are a bit heavier than normal sneakers but also much less flexable, which is a good thing especially if you also plan on using them for a bit of pedalling.

Reading posts like these makes me ashamed to call myself a mtb'er. If you knew how to ride your bike properly you wouldn't have crashed, dude.

One method to help pin down where the sound is coming from is to stand next to the bike, apply both brakes hard and then push down with your foot on one of the pedals. Now repeat on the other side. If a creak/crack sound is heard, the problem has to do with the forces exerted on the pedals and by the chain. If the above happens in your case then there is a good chance it can be the dropout like the others mentioned, but if that doesnt sort out the problem you should also check whether your suspension bolts are tight enough so that there isnt play between the loose cartridge bearings and the frame. Im specifically referring to the 2 main big suspension bolts (one just above the bb the other a bit higher up). If the bearings can move side to side, then this can create creaking. Also if this isnt attended to soon enough it can cause the socket in the frame in which the loose bearings are seated to become worn so that the bearing is now seated even more loose. Next time you remove the bearings check whether you have to apply some force to get the bearings out (good) or if the bearings just fall out without any effort to get them out (bad).

Im sorry but I don't believe in this whole right of way thing on the bi-directional trails, no reason why the guy coming up cant ride on the left or inside of a turn if someone is riding down. Same goes for the guy riding down, stick to the left or go where the rider riding up is not occupying the trail. Now everyone is happy, right? Glad to hear Mr White experienced some good manners from fellow riders this is great and the way it should work.

I also would like to build up a bike one day but unfortunately like the others say its much more pricey than buying a new bike as a whole, unless you already own the key components like wheels, shock, fork etc and only need to buy a few stuff extra. If you buy a new bike the moment you roll the bike out of the shop the bike loses about 30% of its value, if you buy a bike second hand you wont have that sudden drop in value since nobody cares if a bike is 2nd /3rd or 4th hand only whether its been previously used or not. Problem with second hand though is you prob wont know what the previous guy did with the bike and serious issues with the bike might only become apparent after a couple of weeks of riding. Maybe an idea is to ask the second hand seller whether its possible to have the bike checked over by a bike shop, you can share the cost of that service, which should be minimal compared to the possible loss of buying something that might have huge expensive problems later on.

I agree gold should be used in small quantities black rims is going to look best. Rather pimp the pedals or other small components with gold. However white spokes might be hard to get in future so id keep the silver spokes spokes though. If possible a black fork lower would look better aswell.

I managed to get a 30.8 on the lefthand side and a 31.4(i think) on the righthand side. Im pretty sure i can still improve a lot on the berms so hopefully I can get a sub 30 somewhere next time

Rode the track for the first time on Sunday and really enjoyed it, it flows very well and its possible to go quite fast. Especially the first 2 berms with the drop directly afterwards were flowing really well. One thing to watch out for however is the rock on the right just before the first drop, much better to stick to the lefthand side and avoid that if you going to be riding at a medium speed. Otherwise you could end up having your front wheel go over the drop while your rear wheel is still on the rock, resulting in a very uncomfortable situation One section we were unsure how to handle well was the sharpish righthand turn that follows near the end of the track just after the lefthand turn, small rock jump and drop. Seems at the moment like alot of people goes over the drop in the middle and then hit rear brake to slide around the corner, which seems to work but isnt so kind to the trail surface. We tried to rather go wide and then cut across the inside of the turn, and this kinda worked but I don't think im doing it 100% right yet. So that's definitely something that I'll need to practice some more.

Sounds great, So is the first race in July or August (referring to 3 posts up) ? Would also like to know the following please: 1) How pedally is the course? 2) Do you start on a ramp/downhill or from a flat surface area? 3) What speed can one expect to reach on the course (what I really mean is would it be a good idea to have a 44-tooth chainring). Thanks

Hi I currently have the same setup as you and I must say the 2.35 at the front works very well and noticably better than a 2.1, which i tried previously aswell. So rather try to get a 2.35 for the front again or maybe something else that's similar. For the back though I personally wouldn't go with a 2.1 Nevegal again since the sideknobs on my tyre started to tear of after about 10 months of riding. Im not sure why this happened but something similar also happened to a friend of mine who ran a 2.35 at the back. Im currently thinking of getting something like a Maxxis High Roller where the sideknobs seems to be more closely spaced or perhaps a fatter tyre with a lower profile.

You can adjust the limiter screw to prevent the derailleur from going into the 3rd (big ring) position. Look for the screw labeled (H) and turn this screw anti-clockwise (loosen) about half a turn initially. Keep making 1/4 - 1/8th turn adjustments doing this until it is not possible to shift into the bigring position anymore.