Post your Pyga

[cadenceblur]

On a serious note can anyone recommend a good chiropractor in Cape Town?

[cadenceblur]

 

Hairy

 

and don't forget, other than making sure everything works, you will need to send him proof/pictures of just where you went to test it, hehehe

 

G

[Aurora]

My One10

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

On a serious note can anyone recommend a good chiropractor in Cape Town?

CT Central, southern or northern subs?

 

In the south, there's Raymond Dold. Operates out of Bergvliet.

Edited September 19, 2016 by Myles Mayhew

[cadenceblur]

Thanks Myles.

[BSG]

My One10

Green, blue, black coloured bikes are awesome, but white bikes are the most awesome colour on a bike. I wanted to change the colour of my bike so many times, but every time my white bike shines after a decent wash he is so beautiful.

[Percyzn]

Wow... No more words.

[Guest]

Flippen lekker dude. When did you do a night ride up to the fire tower?

 

Edit: just saw your post now on Howick trails about the night ride.

Edited September 22, 2016 by chainsaw

[pedal_bob]

 

 

I am in the process of doing a complete strip down of my OneTen 29 after a long ride that involved lots of mud and 18 stream crossing some of which were deep enough to completely submerge the BB and hubs. I have two things I want to get advice or an opinion on.

 

One of the things I'm looking at improving is the cable routing. I currently route the rear dérailleur cable down the top of the down tube and straight across the top of the BB into the chainstay. I noticed that when the swing arm moves up it's actually putting tension on the cable causing it to sliding in and out of the chain stay. I spotted the photo above and see that here the the cable is suspended from the shock lower pivot sleeve with zip ties. How is this working out? Is the zip tie wearing the sleeve on the shock pivot at all? I'd imagine that there would be quite a bit of rub from the zip tie on that sleeve.

 

Whilst reinstalling my shock, I noticed that when I tighten up the shock lower pivot bolt it seems to be clamping the shock pivot and making it stiff for the shock to pivot freely. I assume this is not normal and must affect the suppleness of the rear suspension due to the friction of rotating about the pivot. I tightened to a torque of 16Nm which I don't think is excessive. Any ideas on how I can free up the pivoting on the lower pivot? I've done nothing to the shock apart from removing and cleaning it and can see no easy obvious way to remove the sleeve from the shock eyes.

[flowCountry]

hey bob!

 

There sure is some wear on the cable time from time to time but i'd say that it takes really long untill it brakes....

 

For the bushings:

The Standard DU-bushings used in must Shocks are reeaaaaally tight (unless they are worn out) like you described. That's normal.

I use these im my 140 http://huber-bushings.com/ and they really are a big benefit compared to the stock ones!

[pedal_bob]

hey bob!

 

There sure is some wear on the cable time from time to time but i'd say that it takes really long untill it brakes....

 

For the bushings:

The Standard DU-bushings used in must Shocks are reeaaaaally tight (unless they are worn out) like you described. That's normal.

I use these im my 140 http://huber-bushings.com/ and they really are a big benefit compared to the stock ones!

Thanks for confirming that tight bushes is normal. I didn't remember it being like that so was surprised when I found how tight it was. I'll look at the bushes you linked to. In my research I came across these needle bearings (http://enduroforkseals.com/id374.html) which look good but, as expected, the Pyga frame is not listed in their standard list. I'll e-mail them and see if they can do something for the Pyga.

 

On my strip down I found that some of my link arm bearings are not so smooth any more and my BB bearings are feeling rough. I'll do a full bearing service / replacement including the shock mount bushes in the winter when riding becomes limited.

[wiely]

I am in the process of doing a complete strip down of my OneTen 29 after a long ride that involved lots of mud and 18 stream crossing some of which were deep enough to completely submerge the BB and hubs. I have two things I want to get advice or an opinion on.

 

One of the things I'm looking at improving is the cable routing. I currently route the rear dérailleur cable down the top of the down tube and straight across the top of the BB into the chainstay. I noticed that when the swing arm moves up it's actually putting tension on the cable causing it to sliding in and out of the chain stay. I spotted the photo above and see that here the the cable is suspended from the shock lower pivot sleeve with zip ties. How is this working out? Is the zip tie wearing the sleeve on the shock pivot at all? I'd imagine that there would be quite a bit of rub from the zip tie on that sleeve.

 

Whilst reinstalling my shock, I noticed that when I tighten up the shock lower pivot bolt it seems to be clamping the shock pivot and making it stiff for the shock to pivot freely. I assume this is not normal and must affect the suppleness of the rear suspension due to the friction of rotating about the pivot. I tightened to a torque of 16Nm which I don't think is excessive. Any ideas on how I can free up the pivoting on the lower pivot? I've done nothing to the shock apart from removing and cleaning it and can see no easy obvious way to remove the sleeve from the shock eyes.

Havent replaced the zip ties yet.

[pedal_bob]

Havent replaced the zip ties yet.

I was wondering more about how the zip ties are wearing the round spacer on the shock mount. I would think it would remove the coating eventually wear a groove in to it no?

 

On the trial fit I did routing the cable your way certainly frees up the swing arm as there is no friction caused by the cable sliding up and down inside the chainstay due to the additional slack you have in bend going through the zip tie. I was just concerned that the zip tie would wear out the spacer on the shock mount.

[Johnny Lawless]

I was wondering more about how the zip ties are wearing the round spacer on the shock mount. I would think it would remove the coating eventually wear a groove in to it no?

 

On the trial fit I did routing the cable your way certainly frees up the swing arm as there is no friction caused by the cable sliding up and down inside the chainstay due to the additional slack you have in bend going through the zip tie. I was just concerned that the zip tie would wear out the spacer on the shock mount.

I used an off-cut strip of frame protection and wrapped that around the spacer before installing the zip tie....hasn't even worn through the protection layer after more than a years' riding. Edited October 8, 2016 by Pyka

[pedal_bob]

I used an off-cut strip of frame protection and wrapped that around the spacer before installing the zip tie....has even worn through the protection layer after more than a years' riding.

Thanks that's good to know.

[pedal_bob]

Thanks for confirming that tight bushes is normal. I didn't remember it being like that so was surprised when I found how tight it was. I'll look at the bushes you linked to. In my research I came across these needle bearings (http://enduroforkseals.com/id374.html) which look good but, as expected, the Pyga frame is not listed in their standard list. I'll e-mail them and see if they can do something for the Pyga.

 

On my strip down I found that some of my link arm bearings are not so smooth any more and my BB bearings are feeling rough. I'll do a full bearing service / replacement including the shock mount bushes in the winter when riding becomes limited.

Just a heads up on the shock mount needle bearings I came across by RWC (enduroforkseals), they have a kit for the rocker side but not the bottom. I'm sending measurements over to see if they have anything that will match the bottom end and will update this when I get an answer.