Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted June 27, 2014 Posted June 27, 2014 Have you taken into account removing the 3 (Shimano) or 4 (SRAM) biggest sprockets on the cassette? Not to mention that I don't think weight is the primary concern here...
droo Posted June 27, 2014 Posted June 27, 2014 Not to mention that I don't think weight is the primary concern here... What he said...
Swart Kat Posted June 27, 2014 Posted June 27, 2014 Ry scwheeeeeeeeet! Nou moet ek net gewig verloor en weer fiks word.........
Meezo Posted June 27, 2014 Posted June 27, 2014 Ry scwheeeeeeeeet! Nou moet ek net gewig verloor en weer fiks word.........turn your clutch on, on the rear mech, flip the silver switch towards on
Swart Kat Posted June 27, 2014 Posted June 27, 2014 turn your clutch on, on the rear mech, flip the silver switch towards on WHY? No issues of dropping chain!
Spoke101 Posted June 27, 2014 Posted June 27, 2014 WHY? No issues of dropping chain! So you don't have your chain slapping around.
DeFconOK Posted June 28, 2014 Posted June 28, 2014 Oh yea. Hope retainer and T-Rex Shimano SLX SG, would just like to get the One Up Derailleur Cage, shift is good but not as good as it should be A 16T would be good as well but is not as bad as expected
KeaganB Posted June 28, 2014 Posted June 28, 2014 this is one of the first thing i want to do when i get my Scott Scale 960 next month
Hairy Posted June 30, 2014 Posted June 30, 2014 Ry scwheeeeeeeeet! Nou moet ek net gewig verloor en weer fiks word.........when you slap that clutch on to stop the chain from slapping, also take a black permanent marker to those black cranks for goodness sake
Sidmouth Posted July 2, 2014 Posted July 2, 2014 Yes. It is necessary... Reason? If it weren't bolted together, every time you were in 1st, your sprocket would have a 1mm/2mm contact point on the free-hub body, versus the whole width of the cassette as a contact point if they were bolted together. What that means is that if it were unattached, it'd have a propensity to damage the freehub far quicker than if t were attached to the rest of the cassette due to the limited contact patch size. (or am I totally off the ball here, Flowta?)yip, well said
Sidmouth Posted July 2, 2014 Posted July 2, 2014 There would be more pressure on the freebody (Same Force-Smaller contect area). But that is an issue with the free body. Some manufactures have included an Anti Bite Guard with their Free Bodies. Some free Bodies dont even wear from cassettes. PS. Look at the SRAM cassettes. They are not bolted together at all.Yes, this free hub is 4 month old I I run a normal 36 -11 sram with the last 4 big cogs bolted, I can only imagine what a 42 unbolted cog will do to a alloy free hub
Mopkop Posted July 2, 2014 Posted July 2, 2014 SuperStar JOU DORING!!!!!! Let the build commence,BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Swart Kat Posted July 2, 2014 Posted July 2, 2014 when you slap that clutch on to stop the chain from slapping, also take a black permanent marker to those black cranks for goodness sake Good idea, but gonna polish them sometime!
Fisan Posted September 27, 2014 Posted September 27, 2014 Just a question on maintenance: when you replace your 1x10 drivetrain, do you have to replace everything? Or do you keep the 42t and 16t cogs till they wear out individually? I am just asking because this will significantly increase the maintenance cost (though not nearly as much as the SRAM XX1!)
The MTBer Posted September 27, 2014 Posted September 27, 2014 On the other hand, in Gauteng do you really need the 42t on the rear. I want to convert to 1x10 but I am running a 12-36 casset do you guys think a 36t will work on the crankset, I am riding a Xl 29er and not so many hills here but visiting CT a 32/34t pn the crankset will work? (I know there are many similar questions but I just want to know from someone who tested it)
shaper Posted September 27, 2014 Posted September 27, 2014 I ride a 34t with 11-36 and is fine for all the riding I do in gauteng, spruit, NF, VG. Going 36t is dependent on your fitness
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