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Ultra Poormans XX1


Flowta

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Have you taken into account removing the 3 (Shimano) or 4 (SRAM) biggest sprockets on the cassette?

 

Not to mention that I don't think weight is the primary concern here...

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Not to mention that I don't think weight is the primary concern here...

 

What he said...

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Ry scwheeeeeeeeet! Nou moet ek net gewig verloor en weer fiks word.........
turn your clutch on, on the rear mech, flip the silver switch towards on
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turn your clutch on, on the rear mech, flip the silver switch towards on

 

WHY? No issues of dropping chain!

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Oh yea. Hope retainer and T-Rex

 

Shimano SLX SG, would just like to get the One Up Derailleur Cage, shift is good but not as good as it should be

 

A 16T would be good as well but is not as bad as expected

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Ry scwheeeeeeeeet! Nou moet ek net gewig verloor en weer fiks word.........

when you slap that clutch on to stop the chain from slapping, also take a black permanent marker to those black cranks for goodness sake :ph34r:
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Yes. It is necessary...

 

Reason? If it weren't bolted together, every time you were in 1st, your sprocket would have a 1mm/2mm contact point on the free-hub body, versus the whole width of the cassette as a contact point if they were bolted together.

 

What that means is that if it were unattached, it'd have a propensity to damage the freehub far quicker than if t were attached to the rest of the cassette due to the limited contact patch size.

 

(or am I totally off the ball here, Flowta?)

yip, well said

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There would be more pressure on the freebody (Same Force-Smaller contect area). But that is an issue with the free body. Some manufactures have included an Anti Bite Guard with their Free Bodies. Some free Bodies dont even wear from cassettes.

 

PS. Look at the SRAM cassettes. They are not bolted together at all.

Yes, this free hub is 4 month old I I run a normal 36 -11 sram with the last 4 big cogs bolted, I can only imagine what a 42 unbolted cog will do to a alloy free hub

post-46828-0-00264200-1404299071_thumb.jpg

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when you slap that clutch on to stop the chain from slapping, also take a black permanent marker to those black cranks for goodness sake :ph34r:

 

Good idea, but gonna polish them sometime!

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  • 2 months later...

Just a question on maintenance: when you replace your 1x10 drivetrain, do you have to replace everything? Or do you keep the 42t and 16t cogs till they wear out individually?

 

I am just asking because this will significantly increase the maintenance cost (though not nearly as much as the SRAM XX1!)

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On the other hand, in Gauteng do you really need the 42t on the rear. I want to convert to 1x10 but I am running a 12-36 casset do you guys think a 36t will work on the crankset, I am riding a Xl 29er and not so many hills here but visiting CT a 32/34t pn the crankset will work? (I know there are many similar questions but I just want to know from someone who tested it)

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I ride a 34t with 11-36 and is fine for all the riding I do in gauteng, spruit, NF, VG.

 

Going 36t is dependent on your fitness

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