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Posted

Although I buy Makita/Metabo/Bosch Blue/Fluke etc I started off with what I could afford back in the day.  Hard to justify a 2 or 3 times premium for a power tool that gets used once in a blue moon. Besides bragging rights of course.

Even buying quality brands like the ones listed above...some are just better than others...you have to figue out which are the best of the various brands...the Makita planer/thicknesser for example i picked up in a pawn shop for R3k...this machine has worked 12 hours non stop day after day and still runs.

 

The dustless chasing systems for example...Hilti vacuum wins hands down for brick dust...i dont use the a makita vacuum to site anymore...no matter how many filters you use...however their little double blade chasing machine is the best for dustless brick cutting...if used "slowly" ...the makita vacuum get 5/5 for wood work runs non stop but  the hilti a 2/5...after a couple hours of wood dust it shuts down....it cloggs the filter even with the ding dong thingmabob bumping the filter.

Posted

That is true ... even with Makita one gets entry level relatively flimsy (but cheaper) battery powered drills.  We don't really get the full range here, I generally source from the US via ebay.

 

I have one of the first Makita 18V three speed drills, its been a hard worker but its really heavy compared to the latest brushless (and more plastic) units.

 

btw, I am awaiting a shipment of decent Samsung 18650 Lithium Ion cells to attempt redoing a battery pack

Posted

 

btw, I am awaiting a shipment of decent Samsung 18650 Lithium Ion cells to attempt redoing a battery pack

i assume you know what you are doing and how the BMS works...i dont try fix the packs ...i rather strip the batteries out the casing and use the good ones for torches...i purchased an 18650 smart charger with display ...which can charger 1 batteries at a time

Posted (edited)

If you are going to make one then I suggest watching this video, brilliant instructions and looks like it wouldnt be super difficult if you have the tools required.

 

Tx Rocket-Boy.

 

EDIT:

 

I called BoltFast and they have M20 threaded rod, but the thread is quite coarse with a 2.5 mm pitch.  That means that the fence will "lock" in place only on every 2.5 mm spacing.  This is a bit too far apart.  (The video uses 1/16th inch pitch, c 1.6 mm)

 

Does anyone know if one can get a M 20 with a finer thread pitch? Preferably 1 mm.. (But then again, will 1mm spacing be strong enough for repeated use?)

Edited by carrera4s
Posted

i assume you know what you are doing and how the BMS works...i dont try fix the packs ...i rather strip the batteries out the casing and use the good ones for torches...i purchased an 18650 smart charger with display ...which can charger 1 batteries at a time

 

Well kinda ... my main game is electronics & electrical and I am aware of the charging regimes of Lithium Ion, The cells in the battery packs are 'unprotected' which means the BMS is done by a board in the pack so I can't see any reason why the cells cant be replaced.

Posted

i assume you know what you are doing and how the BMS works...i dont try fix the packs ...i rather strip the batteries out the casing and use the good ones for torches...i purchased an 18650 smart charger with display ...which can charger 1 batteries at a time

Nitecore i4, charges 4x 18650/20700's at a time and does a brilliant job of it.

Posted

Vermont sales are the SA suppliers...i wish you luck trying to get spares for your machines.

Wow. That's interesting. I asked because I worked briefly for them many years ago. Festool/Protool was part of Festo, operating next to the airport highway. I thought highly of the product, the people involved here, not so much. I don't really do woodwork but I still have a few tools I bought at staff prices at the time.

Posted

Beware of buying Triton routers...the gear seems to have stripped for height adjustment...i sent it in to a quote to repair...i was told Vermont sales cannot supply the parts required to repair the machine...i must pay for the quote and collect the machine as is :(

 

I have sent you a PM, I know someone who may be able to fix that for you.

Posted (edited)

this is what has happened...i sent in my triton router for a replacement of a worn gear...thinking it is a moving part...there should be stock of the parts in the country...you sell a product...you keep spares for like bearings...gears etc...unfortunately there is no triton repair centres in Durban...so i had the option to send to jhb for the repair or take it to a reputable power tool repair company in Durban (JMM power tools) ...well thats where the wheels fell off.

 

5 emails almost 2 weeks later i am told to collect my router and pay the quote fee...even after i had sent an email to Vermont and attached the email from JMM power tools.

 

Then i started a social media post...within a couple of hours i had a response from Clive at Vermont...explained my problem ...was told to leave it with him and it would be sorted out...apparently someone got the codes mixed up and they do have the parts.

 

i have just got off the phone...my router will be ready for collection this week.

Edited by eccc whippet
Posted

 

Im pretty sure they can help, Triton make good quality stuff normally.

i agree the router works hard...as i mentioned to Clive...it is not a warranty claim...the gear is worn( i use it a lot...i just need the machine repaired)...i have no problem paying for the parts and the repair...the reason i have the triton under a table is because of the fine adjustment from the top...i have maktec routers under the other tables (no fine adjustment required) and makita routers for the general routing...unfortunately non of the makita routers have the facility to adjust from the top while under the table...i know you can buy an attachment to fit to the other routers....that was the next option if i couldnt get the triton repaired. 

Posted (edited)

 the fine adjustment from the top... .unfortunately non of the makita routers have the facility to adjust from the top while under the table...

 

I have a makita router mounted under the table that I micro adjust from the top.  I also do bit changes from the top.

 

The router has a lug on the side of the router body and I simply made a long threaded rod with a epoxied nut to adjust it from above the table.  Can't remember the model nr now...

 

It is extremely simple!  However, nobody at makita even thought it was possible.   :whistling:   Even Denis from "Routing with Denis" did not know that it was possible - he also called his makita contacts.  (I did his handheld and table routing courses).

 

http://www.routingwithdenis.co.za/home

 

I'll take some photos tonight.

 

EDIT:  Here is a photo of the RP2301FCX.  Look at the lug in the circle.  Simply thread a long bolt (or threaded rod) through  the table top,  through the Base Plate and through that nut - then you can adjust it from above the table.  Just make sure you have a "shoulder" & washer for the bolt's head to hang on.  (The RP1800X also have this lug, but I can't see it on the RP0900).

 

post-50518-0-97666300-1533627482_thumb.jpg

 

Edited by carrera4s
Posted

I have a makita router mounted under the table that I micro adjust from the top.  I also do bit changes from the top.

 

 

I'll take some photos tonight.

 

EDIT:  Here is a photo of the RP2301FCX.  Look at the lug in the circle.  Simply thread a long bolt (or threaded rod) through  the table top,  through the Base Plate and through that nut - then you can adjust it from above the table.  Just make sure you have a "shoulder" & washer for the bolt's head to hang on.  (The RP1800X also have this lug, but I can't see it on the RP0900).

 

thanks...i have a RP2301FCX (this is an awesome machine) ...i use it to cut out 18 mm profiles with template...this machine is flippen strong...i do the cut out in one cut.

 

i dont really want to mount the RP 230 under a table ...but i look forward to the photos...maybe i can make it work on the maktec...it would be handy.  

 

hopefully my triton will be back under the table by the end of the week...and we will be up and running again.

Posted (edited)

I'll take some photos tonight.

 

 

I see I also have the RP2301FC router which I bought second hand.

 

Here is the router table from the top.  There is a 6 mm MDF insert on the base plate with the threaded rod & epoxied nut shown in the lower left corner.  The nut rests on the washer, which rests on the router base plate.

 

post-50518-0-78049600-1533668174_thumb.jpg

 

 

Here is the MDF removed to show the router base plate.  It also shows my handle that I use to turn the nut.  It is simply a 10mm nut setter epoxied into the handle.

 

post-50518-0-25114800-1533668265_thumb.jpg

 

 

Here is the router from below the table.  The threaded rod simply screws through the lug on the side of the router housing.

 

post-50518-0-56179600-1533668393_thumb.jpg

 

 

And here is the handle that I use to depress the button to lock the spindle for bit changes.  It is just a dowel stick with a handle on the outside of the frame with a spring between the frame and handle to push it back when not needed (a panel pin prevents it flying out of the frame).  I can reach this handle from the top while using the spanner thought the base plate opening.

 

post-50518-0-24354000-1533668544_thumb.jpg

Edited by carrera4s

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