Post your woodwork here

[Plentipotential]

I recently bought an old table saw, I believe it is a Delta saw. The plate on the motor states 1983 and there is no other information about the saw on it. I painted it light grey, I don't like the black frame it currently has, but the paint doesn't seem to adhere to the black paint. In fairness I just lightly sanded it.

 

My question now is what would be the best way forward? I guess I should use paint stripper to get all the loose paint off as well as anything else that comes off. Should the frame be cleaned completely to bare metal? To paint it again what would the process be? I guess primer first and then top coat? What paints and procedures do you recommend? I prefer to spray it so any paint recommendations that spray well will be beneficial. 

 

If it were mine I would have the parts bead blasted, not the gears and moving parts, and paint with a smooth Hammerite which you can spray on if you have access to spraying equipment. No need to prime if you use Hammerite, nice smooth finish. Let the parts warm up in the sun before painting.

 

I sprayed this engine with red Hammerite other bits with black.

[Rocket-Boy]

Paint stripper and a wire brush to bare metal. Self etching primer and any other colour (all preferably from Rustoleum). 

I've restored a few Delta machinery, one coated with water-based poly (I liked the bare cast iron look).. Others I've spray with 2k, which is overkill as most machines can be covered with2 rattle cans.

I would only consider Hammerite or Rustoleum for applications like this.

Its mad how much of a difference there is between cheaper spray paints and good quality like Rustoleum.

[patches]

+ 1 for the variable speed on a router. But don't neglect ergonomics. It's such a useful tool with many applications that you might want to consider a higher end model. 

If you're planning to mount it in a table, the Triton with an aluminium plate from Jessem or Kreg is great option. I've the 1400w Triton and it's got enough grunt to run big profiles and finger grip/pull bits. 

 

As for domino vs dowel joiner jigs. Depends on what you're planning on using it for. Personally, doweling jigs don't appeal to me - they all seem too expensive for the amount of effort that is still required (they mostly seem too tedious). At the end of the day, you'd spend about half of what a domino machine would have cost you, but still have a compromised setup. Is that saving worth it is the question? 

Don't forget to look at a biscuit joiner, and seeing as you already dipped into cordless Makita ecosystem, they've a nice cordless one too.

 

 

RE 1/2" router: yup, I was thinking that 1400W - 1700W would be more than sufficient. Add the requirement for variable speed and 1/2" and it narrows down the options a bit.

 

I have had my eye on the Bosch GOF1600CE, which comes in at about the same price as the variable speed Makita. I know it's a popular option with some of the US woodworkers (granted they have the sissy-voltage version). It's about R7,500 new. so will still keep an eye out on the used market.

 

http://www.testntools.co.nz/images/detailed/2/Bosch-GOF1600CE-Router-with-Parallel-Guide-0601624040-A.jpg

 

As for doweling jigs, I agree. I initially considered them, but the more I investigated the less I liked the idea.

 

I have considered the biscuit joiner route (and yes, the battery operated Makita one is on my wishlist   ), but again, research seems to indicate their main advantage is in lining up pieces and not offering structural integrity, whereas a Domino or Peanut or Lamello Zeta offers some strength benefit along with the alignment. I think biscuit joiners are one of those divisive tools that people ether love or leave to gather dust.

 

On the other hand the only real negative I have ever heard about a Domino is price. And yeah, this is a big factor for me as I'm a home-gamer, so it's an overkill.

 

Anyway, full size router first. Then maybe a Peanut jig. Then maybe if I win the lotto I'll get a Domino

[Stretched@Birth]

RE 1/2" router: yup, I was thinking that 1400W - 1700W would be more than sufficient. Add the requirement for variable speed and 1/2" and it narrows down the options a bit.

 

I have had my eye on the Bosch GOF1600CE, which comes in at about the same price as the variable speed Makita. I know it's a popular option with some of the US woodworkers (granted they have the sissy-voltage version). It's about R7,500 new. so will still keep an eye out on the used market.

 

http://www.testntools.co.nz/images/detailed/2/Bosch-GOF1600CE-Router-with-Parallel-Guide-0601624040-A.jpg

 

As for doweling jigs, I agree. I initially considered them, but the more I investigated the less I liked the idea.

 

I have considered the biscuit joiner route (and yes, the battery operated Makita one is on my wishlist ), but again, research seems to indicate their main advantage is in lining up pieces and not offering structural integrity, whereas a Domino or Peanut or Lamello Zeta offers some strength benefit along with the alignment. I think biscuit joiners are one of those divisive tools that people ether love or leave to gather dust.

 

On the other hand the only real negative I have ever heard about a Domino is price. And yeah, this is a big factor for me as I'm a home-gamer, so it's an overkill.

 

Anyway, full size router first. Then maybe a Peanut jig. Then maybe if I win the lotto I'll get a Domino

The Lamello Zeta T-Slot system is nice if you’re doing a lot of cabinetry type work. It does however tie you into their “biscuits”, which can become pricey. Kind of like the Kreg jigs, the Kreg screws are expensive.

[patches]

The Lamello Zeta T-Slot system is nice if you’re doing a lot of cabinetry type work. It does however tie you into their “biscuits”, which can become pricey. Kind of like the Kreg jigs, the Kreg screws are expensive.

 

Yeah, in the land where there's a zero chopped off, one quickly forgets that things are not as reasonable as they seem.

 

I bought some Kreg pocket hole screws a little while back and thought "that's not too bad".

 

I just checked now.

 

Approx R140 for 50x 50mm Kreg Screws

Approx. R80 for 50x 50mm 8G Zinc Plated screws

 

So yeah, nearly twice the price. Hopefully I'll be less fooled by "just $14" next time

[patches]

After going down some YouTube rabbit holes my heart is drawn to the Bosch GMF 1600 CE 

 

This review (although lengthy) shows some good features that make this tool an attractive option.

 

Namely:

• Fixed and plunge bases (so fixed base can be installed on table router plate making router easier to switch between 2 functions. Plus I believe fixed bases are better for table mounting)
• Above table height adjustment (through base)
• Variable speed with electronic constant speed control
• 76mm plunge (which seems to be larger than most routers in this range)
• 1/4", 8mm and 1/2" collet sizes

The downside... price (as expected). For the router and both bases, it comes into just under R10,000 equivalent (almost Festool money) 

 

[stefmeister]

After going down some YouTube rabbit holes my heart is drawn to the Bosch GMF 1600 CE 

 

This review (although lengthy) shows some good features that make this tool an attractive option.

 

Namely:

• Fixed and plunge bases (so fixed base can be installed on table router plate making router easier to switch between 2 functions. Plus I believe fixed bases are better for table mounting)
• Above table height adjustment (through base)
• Variable speed with electronic constant speed control
• 76mm plunge (which seems to be larger than most routers in this range)
• 1/4", 8mm and 1/2" collet sizes

The downside... price (as expected). For the router and both bases, it comes into just under R10,000 equivalent (almost Festool money) 

 

 

I've that Bosch. Although it's nice and I got it at a bargain price, it's not the ultimate in refinement of ergonomics. 

The fixed base takes off quite a bit of weight, making it easier for trimming applications, where a top heavy plunge router can be slightly cumbersome. I didn't bother to try and use it in a table mounted setup. 

 

I'd probably buy it again at the same price, but as you say, they're now almost as much as the Festool's 1400w model. Better to check out and demo the units if you're dropping that much $$$.

[ABrooks]

On 5/6/2021 at 8:48 AM, Hairy said:

 

Thanks Hairy, I am already subscribed to his channel. the frame I have is stamped steel so looking for a DIY approach.

 

[ABrooks]

On 5/7/2021 at 10:52 AM, stefmeister said:

 

Paint stripper and a wire brush to bare metal. Self etching primer and any other colour (all preferably from Rustoleum). 

I've restored a few Delta machinery, one coated with water-based poly (I liked the bare cast iron look).. Others I've spray with 2k, which is overkill as most machines can be covered with2 rattle cans.

Thanks Stef, I will look into self etching primer Is there any brand primer and paint that you would recommend, I will be spraying with a compressor setup so looking for something that sprays well. 

[ABrooks]

On 5/7/2021 at 11:05 AM, Plentipotential said:

 

If it were mine I would have the parts bead blasted, not the gears and moving parts, and paint with a smooth Hammerite which you can spray on if you have access to spraying equipment. No need to prime if you use Hammerite, nice smooth finish. Let the parts warm up in the sun before painting.

 

I sprayed this engine with red Hammerite other bits with black.

Thanks, will look into it when shopping for paint. 

 

[ABrooks]

On 5/7/2021 at 11:35 AM, Rocket-Boy said:

I would only consider Hammerite or Rustoleum for applications like this.

Its mad how much of a difference there is between cheaper spray paints and good quality like Rustoleum.

I also find that Rustoleum is not that much more expensive considering how much better the paint covers and how much longer you can spray with a can when compared to cheaper spray cans. 

[ABrooks]

Looking at paints, how will the Duram DTM (Direct to Metal) hold up vs using a primer and something like Hammerite? As usual everything is done to a budget so trying to keep the price as low as possible. 

[Plentipotential]

2 hours ago, ABrooks said:

Looking at paints, how will the Duram DTM (Direct to Metal) hold up vs using a primer and something like Hammerite? As usual everything is done to a budget so trying to keep the price as low as possible. 

No primer needed with Hammerite. The name Hammerite came from the hammered finish that the paint gave, they still make this as well as the smooth. Have a look at the colours available. It is extremely durable.

[patches]

On 5/11/2021 at 6:11 PM, stefmeister said:

 

I've that Bosch. Although it's nice and I got it at a bargain price, it's not the ultimate in refinement of ergonomics. 

The fixed base takes off quite a bit of weight, making it easier for trimming applications, where a top heavy plunge router can be slightly cumbersome. I didn't bother to try and use it in a table mounted setup. 

 

I'd probably buy it again at the same price, but as you say, they're now almost as much as the Festool's 1400w model. Better to check out and demo the units if you're dropping that much $$$.

Yeah, it is creeping into Festool territory, and I don't own me any green & black... yet ????

I have my eye on a couple of 2nd hand $1 reserve auctions all closing in 1 day. The options are:

• Festo (Festool) OF 2000E - currently at a $5.51
• Elu 177e - currently at $10.50
• Makita RP2301FC - currently at $307.00

The machines in question would have been worked hard though as they are from a liquidation sale of a door-making business or something like that.

In NZ, $1 auction bids are notorious for climbing 10-100x in the last 5min, so I'm not holding my breath for an absolute steal, but let's see. I may get lucky.

[patches]

Quickly popped over to the lumber yard to pick up some walnut and maple.

The racks are more bare than usual, evidence of the worldwide shortages.

And damn walnut is pricey (first time I've ever bought some)

They did give me a good deal on the S4S maple though. Sold it at the same price as rough sawn ????

 

Out of curiosity, what are the prices of the exotics like in SA?

Here it's

• American Black Walnut (rough sawn) - $6,000/m³ (±R60,000)
• American Hard Maple (rough sawn) - $3,000/m³ (± R30,000)

Edited May 13, 2021 by patches

[Capricorn]

11 minutes ago, patches said:

Quickly popped over to the lumber yard to pick up some walnut and maple.

The racks are more bare than usual, evidence of the worldwide shortages.

And damn walnut is pricey (first time I've ever bought some)

They did give me a good deal on the S4S maple though. Sold it at the same price as rough sawn ????

 

Out of curiosity, what are the prices of the exotics like in SA?

Here it's

• American Black Walnut (rough sawn) - $6,000/m³ (±R60,000)
• American Hard Maple (rough sawn) - $3,000/m³ (± R30,000)

From rarewoods : price varies per thickness of board, 26mm to 101mm 

american walnut (prime) - R62,030 to R108,670 per cube 

hard maple (prime) - R36,160 to R59,870 per cube.