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Slowbee

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Thanks! That drill attachment look impressive on YouTube  :thumbup:

 

Learn so much on this discussion. I suck with wood - no margin for error & no fix-ups with a hammer afterwards like metal  :blush:

why do you think there was that saying measure twice cut once? 

 

In my case, it's more like measure thrice, mark, measure again, check drawings for authenticity, re-measure, use speed-square to determine trueness of markings, turn on laser marker on saw, measure again JUST in case, cut. 

 

Swear cos you measured calculated 500-355 as 245 instead of 145. 

 

Start again. 

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why do you think there was that saying measure twice cut once? 

 

In my case, it's more like measure thrice, mark, measure again, check drawings for authenticity, re-measure, use speed-square to determine trueness of markings, turn on laser marker on saw, measure again JUST in case, cut. 

 

Swear cos you measured calculated 500-355 as 245 instead of 145. 

 

Start again. 

 

Thats me also.  I messed up my Std 6 woodworking project because I measured from the wrong end on the one side of my project.  That fold-up leisure chair never worked out.

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How do one make that deep square holes?

Close to what Myles described, though I used a router mounted in a router table and a fence for these. They are indeed two pieces. I also make solid ones if I can find the right size wood, the I normally make a big round hole for a round handle.

 

It took me very close to 30 minutes to drill a 20mm hole in that camelthorn head - that stuff is damn hard. (Sharp Forstner bit used on a drill press for the curious) I may have to enlarge that hole to 30mm though ... not really smaaking the feel of the 20mm at the moment.

 

 

why do you think there was that saying measure twice cut once? 

 
Measure twice, cut once, force to fit in any case.

 

Edited by Pants Boy
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I'm always impressed with the amount of timber being used in roof/beam construction in European factories.

Some of the beams exceed 1.8m in width

 

I've got an American book here with pics of massive curved wooden beams used for school stadia (no simple gym halls for them) - and, most interesting, pics of wooden beams after a fire, still holding up the twisted and bent steel girders. 

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I've got an American book here with pics of massive curved wooden beams used for school stadia (no simple gym halls for them) - and, most interesting, pics of wooden beams after a fire, still holding up the twisted and bent steel girders.

One of our customers built these trusses for a carport at their factory, when the cash flow allows, they are going to do a similar design for my to be built entertainment area at home.

 

a78e9f6ab33c213409e49c1be2ea4c90.jpg

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Nice thread this!

I have a quick novice question: Can you recommend a finish/varnish for saligna? Im making a first desk for my son's room using saligna laminate.

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Nice thread this!

I have a quick novice question: Can you recommend a finish/varnish for saligna? Im making a first desk for my son's room using saligna laminate.

For ease of application, great finish and durability, it will be difficult to beat a simple wiping varnish finsh. It is a simple mixture of an oil based varnish and paint thinner. Easy to apply without leaving brush marks or bubbles. Please google "wiping varnish".
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Nice thread this!

I have a quick novice question: Can you recommend a finish/varnish for saligna? Im making a first desk for my son's room using saligna laminate.

 

I've used Nova 17 often for Saligna counter tops (prefer the matt), it really goes the distance. Brush on a few thin coats, sanding in between.

 

http://www.novacoatings.co.za/index.php/widgetkit/interior-wood-coatings/item/nova-17-novathane

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I've got an American book here with pics of massive curved wooden beams used for school stadia (no simple gym halls for them) - and, most interesting, pics of wooden beams after a fire, still holding up the twisted and bent steel girders. 

In most cases beams are treated with Boron salts, all indoors, otherwise it would leach out. The beams only char on the outer layer, then stop. I have seen 600mm I Beam sections that fold over wooden beams like pap spaghetti. So insurance companies "do" a lot to promote the use of timber. 

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One of our customers built these trusses for a carport at their factory, when the cash flow allows, they are going to do a similar design for my to be built entertainment area at home.

 

a78e9f6ab33c213409e49c1be2ea4c90.jpg

Those are way cool. Just curious but how does the king and queen post length work? Is the king post still the exact length as it is there or do you have an imaginary line across the bottom to calculate the king post height? Usually its easy to work out the pitch of the roof from the king post height but in this case I imagine it cant be easy.

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I've got an American book here with pics of massive curved wooden beams used for school stadia (no simple gym halls for them) - and, most interesting, pics of wooden beams after a fire, still holding up the twisted and bent steel girders. 

It's an interesting point that. A few tests have been done by setting various buildings on fire. Steel begins twisting at around 800 degrees I think, melting will be higher. When it reaches that point, it melts completely and that's the end of that. Yet wood, even at those temperatures, still only burns on the surface, So if, and this is the biggie, you can extinguish the fire quickly enough, the wood will still be structurally sound. You could theoretically just clean off the burnt surface and carry on. 

 

Obviously this would also depend on the wood used too. The Japanese actually pre-burn the surface of wood to use it as a fire retardant method.

http://www.improvementcenter.com/imagesvr_ce/3077/charring%20wood%20for%20siding.png

7ed5f072b40a8a88aec88bd81e745d9f.jpg

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It's an interesting point that. A few tests have been done by setting various buildings on fire. Steel begins twisting at around 800 degrees I think, melting will be higher. When it reaches that point, it melts completely and that's the end of that. Yet wood, even at those temperatures, still only burns on the surface, So if, and this is the biggie, you can extinguish the fire quickly enough, the wood will still be structurally sound. You could theoretically just clean off the burnt surface and carry on. 

 

Obviously this would also depend on the wood used too. The Japanese actually pre-burn the surface of wood to use it as a fire retardant method.

http://www.improvementcenter.com/imagesvr_ce/3077/charring%20wood%20for%20siding.png

7ed5f072b40a8a88aec88bd81e745d9f.jpg

Interesting conversation...

 

I once dated a lady from a foreign country where wood is the major buidling material and in abundance. She was also a structural engineer. I once asked her what her nation's infatuation with wood was...and over many beers while deeply in love I listened and was schooled on woods good properties, the gist of what you just explained and quite the reason why they use it.

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Gloating time.  Got a real nice surprise from the boss today. Immediately went out to order a Festool TSS55REBQ track saw and OF1400EBQ-Plus router. With their guide rails included off course.

 

Wanted this pair-up now for years.  :clap:

Edited by Moridin
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Gloating time.  Got a real nice surprise from the boss today. Immediately went out to order a Festool TSS55REBQ track saw and OF1400EBQ-Plus router. With their guide rails included off course.

 

Wanted this pair-up now for years.  :clap:

 

Cape Town living up to its name again, Christmas bonus 7 months late...  :ph34r:

 

 

Just kidding, well done, hope you're gonna post more pics of the projects you use it on.

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