V12man Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Woodoc worked for 10 years on my timber frame in Scarborough.Probably the harshest enviroment I know for timber.50 and 55 are good products.I consulted an expert on the product though and followed the preparation instructions to a teeAnd what do you think wooddoc is made of exactly? it's basically varnish with high build components in - and some agents to make it less uv sensitive. I used it on wood windows for years - a real mission to look after - until someone told me about the linseed oil/turps trick - after that maintenance became easy - just a quick wipe every few months and nothing else needed ito maintenance - try it - you might like it - and yes, you can put woodoc over it without issues if you don't like it. - you can also use it as maintenance over a woodoc finish - works well. The trick - with all wood - is to keep maintaining it - never let it get to a point where it needs to be re-finished in it's entirety. My dad uses the linseed oil/turps on his jetty planks - now over 25 years old - and they take a beating from sun, wind and salt water - still good. AlanD, Captain Fastbastard Mayhem, Long Wheel Base and 4 others 7
Pants Boy Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Argh no man I thought we were gonna start moering things Long Wheel Base 1
Long Wheel Base Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Argh no man I thought we were gonna start moering things If you make some mallets for us then we will. But i'll take one coated in oil please. The varnish would be like taking a knife to a gun fight.............. Pants Boy 1
Eddy Gordo Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 And what do you think wooddoc is made of exactly? it's basically varnish with high build components in - and some agents to make it less uv sensitive. I used it on wood windows for years - a real mission to look after - until someone told me about the linseed oil/turps trick - after that maintenance became easy - just a quick wipe every few months and nothing else needed ito maintenance - try it - you might like it - and yes, you can put woodoc over it without issues if you don't like it. - you can also use it as maintenance over a woodoc finish - works well. The trick - with all wood - is to keep maintaining it - never let it get to a point where it needs to be re-finished in it's entirety. My dad uses the linseed oil/turps on his jetty planks - now over 25 years old - and they take a beating from sun, wind and salt water - still good.Yeah, I wanna switch over to this as the varnish is just not doing its part on my wooden window frames.Do I need to strip all the varnish?What is the ratio of oil to turps?
Pants Boy Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 If you make some mallets for us then we will. But i'll take one coated in oil please. The varnish would be like taking a knife to a gun fight.............. See the shine on Armpies' Mallets? That from BUFFING, no varnish, no oil ... just a tiny amount of wax DJR and Long Wheel Base 2
alleyne Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 I had the "secret" recipe passed down to me for all wood maintenance applications. It was equal parts: raw linseed oil/turps/turps based varnish. Should the varnish be ditched?
Kranswurm Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Is linseed oil useful for the homeowner? Despite the claims of linseed oil manufacturers and salesmen, there is a commercial wood preservative that exceeds linseed oil's performance for almost every application. Perhaps the only reason to consider using linseed oil as a preservative is the price. Linseed oil is less than half the price of a commercial preservative. If I was going to coat a half mile of wood fencing or other non-critical application, I just might choose linseed oil. There are only two uses for linseed oil for which there is no reasonable alternative. Both involve glazing. As an additive to glazing putty... If your oil-based glazing putty is getting a little stiff, or if the new can you just bought seems too dry (and the store is a half-hour away), add a very small amount of boiled linseed oil and mix thoroughly. If the putty is dried and lumpy, you will not be able to totally restore it by adding linseed oil... it will still retain some lumps no matter how long you mix. But don't use the Cuisinart... yes, I know it crossed your mind! Dry wood in window sash when reglazing... When replacing a window pane, brush or rub some boiled linseed oil on the sash before applying the new putty. Wipe off any excess. You can apply glazing putty immediately. This will prevent the wood from drawing the oil from the putty too quickly, causing an overly dry contact point with the wood and possible premature failure of the putty. Though you might think that adding extra linseed oil to the putty would give the same result, putty that is too soft will be very sloppy to work with and difficult to smooth. (Excessive softness is one of the drawbacks of the current crop of latex-based glazing compounds.) Why shouldn't you pick linseed oil as your first choice in a preservative? Linseed oil has some negatives. Granted, it has been used with some success for many years. But welcome to the modern world! Today, there are scads of linseed oil-based paints and preservatives that expand on linseed oil's good qualities while overcoming (at least to some degree) its drawbacks. Some of the problems with straight linseed oil, boiled or raw, are: Sometimes linseed oil can take forever to dry... or stays sticky or doesn't dry at all!! This is a nightmare situation that happens too often when linseed oil is applied either (1) too thickly, (2) onto damp materials or (3) when the temperature is too cold. Thinning linseed oil with turpentine can help somewhat, but even with thinning it is important to apply thin, multiple coats but allow each coat to dry before applying the next! No UV (ultraviolet) light resistance... UV causes more damage to exposed wood than any other factor, destroying wood fibers and setting it up for attack by mildew, fungus, and insects. Linseed oil is mildew food... Many vegetable oils are food products for humans... all vegetable oils are food products for mildew! Linseed oil is not completely denatured, so it can encourage rather than discourage mildew growth. Linseed oil does not harden sufficiently to offer enough resistance to abrasion to be a suitable deck floor preservative... at least by today's standards. Linseed oil has been used for interior wood floors, but it must be waxed for durability! Waxing an outside deck would be dangerous, even if you hang a "Slippery When Wet" sign! Difficult to remove from wood... Multiple coats of linseed oil are gummy and difficult to remove fully for refinishing.
V12man Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Yeah, I wanna switch over to this as the varnish is just not doing its part on my wooden window frames.Do I need to strip all the varnish?What is the ratio of oil to turps?Only strip the loose stuff off - green scrubby works pretty well - see what it looks like afterwards - if it doesn't look good then strip. Eddy Gordo 1
V12man Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 See the shine on Armpies' Mallets? That from BUFFING, no varnish, no oil ... just a tiny amount of waxYou should try danish oil..... then you will see shine... Pants Boy 1
V12man Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 I had the "secret" recipe passed down to me for all wood maintenance applications. It was equal parts: raw linseed oil/turps/turps based varnish. Should the varnish be ditched?I think it depends on what you are trying to do - 30/70 mix does not do very well as a first fix finish - but adding varnish to it should help a lot - especially in the uv stabilisation of it.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 You should try danish oil..... then you will see shine...personally I prefer the matt buffed look to a varnish sheen. Oil or wax is my preference for stuff that is going to stay inside. dev null 1
Guest notmyname Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 (edited) I'm keen on a teak flat bar for my new retro roadie SS. Good idea? Bad idea? Your opinion is valued. Kindest mememememememe Edited September 2, 2016 by *neilneilneilneilneil*
V12man Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 personally I prefer the matt buffed look to a varnish sheen. Oil or wax is my preference for stuff that is going to stay inside. So Danish OIL is not oil? :clap: gives a very nice sheen, so must be wax.... Starting to sound like certain political players.... Pants Boy and Captain Fastbastard Mayhem 2
V12man Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 So Danish OIL is not oil? :clap: gives a very nice sheen, so must be wax.... Starting to sound like certain political pawpaws....Fixed... Captain Fastbastard Mayhem 1
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 So Danish OIL is not oil? :clap: gives a very nice sheen, so must be wax.... Starting to sound like certain political players....GAH! It's friday. My concentration is off, and I'm arguing with providers who are trying to delay shaite. fk. Just wanna ride. Long Wheel Base 1
Eddy Gordo Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 GAH! It's friday. My concentration is off, and I'm arguing with providers who are trying to delay shaite. fk. Just wanna ride. Where u riding the weekend?Some place with lots of wood?
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