dev null Posted July 11, 2016 Posted July 11, 2016 Willard apparently make some of the best batteries. Not any more. I used to be an avid Willard supporter, until I started getting 3 years tops out of them. These days I only buy Varta. Grebel 1
dev null Posted July 11, 2016 Posted July 11, 2016 Had issues with my wife's Audi. R950 to run a diagnostics test and HOPEFULLY identify the problem... Get the VAG-COM adapter from Hex Diagnostics here in Strand/Somerset West and them just download the software if you have any Audi/VW. Grebel 1
dev null Posted July 11, 2016 Posted July 11, 2016 (edited) Mate of mine had a costly incident last week, there was a whine and his 1st and 3rd gear started jumping out. Took it in and it turns out there was almost no gearbox oil in, his cars is still on service plan, last service 3 months ago, so how is it the mechanics failed to do this. Its not like he can jack his vehicle up and check it like you do for engine and clutch. Happened to me many years ago. I got VW in Kempton to replace the clutch on my VW Jetta CLi before visiting my new GF in Paarl. On the way down at around Matjiesfontein this started to happen. I stopped at Touws Rivier to see GB oil dripping from the clutch housing. I nursed the car to Paarl and booked the car in there at VW. Turned out that the tech in Kempton inserted the oil seal between the GB and the Clutch the wrong way around. They replaced the clutch on their account, but refused to fix the gearbox as they said that I should have stopped when this happened. Who the F is going to just stop in the middle of the Karoo? Anyway, the GB had an annoying light whine in 5th gear since that time until I sold it about 150 000km later. Edited July 11, 2016 by Moridin
Pure Savage Posted July 11, 2016 Author Posted July 11, 2016 Happened to me many years ago. I got VW in Kempton to replace the clutch on my VW Jetta CLi before visiting my new GF in Paarl. On the way down at around Matjiesfontein this started to happen. I stopped at Touws Rivier to see GB oil dripping from the clutch housing. I nursed the car to Paarl and booked the car in there at VW. Turned out that the tech in Kempton inserted the oil seal between the GB and the Clutch the wrong way around. They replaced the clutch on their account, but refused to fix the gearbox as they said that I should have stopped when this happened. Who the F is going to just stop in the middle of the Karoo? Anyway, the GB had an annoying light whine in 5th gear since that time until I sold it about 150 000km later.Thought you said your GF had a slight whine for the next 150 000km... BSG and LBKloppers 2
AlanD Posted July 11, 2016 Posted July 11, 2016 Nice thread this. My wifes car started to jerk and almost like its lost power, its a toyota Tazz. I serviced it. Petrol, oil and air filter. Spark plugs and new oil. Even checked the distributor cap for build up and cleaned the points a little bit. It seems to be better now but every now and again it gives a bit of jerk and almost wants to stall and loose power. Any idea what it could be?
dev null Posted July 11, 2016 Posted July 11, 2016 Nice thread this. My wifes car started to jerk and almost like its lost power, its a toyota Tazz. I serviced it. Petrol, oil and air filter. Spark plugs and new oil. Even checked the distributor cap for build up and cleaned the points a little bit. It seems to be better now but every now and again it gives a bit of jerk and almost wants to stall and loose power. Any idea what it could be? Could be many things. Does it have fuel injection or carburettor? If FI, it could be the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor), or any of the sensors that feeds info to the Engine Management System. In my Audi's case, it was the Coolant Temp Sensor. If any of the sensors feeds bad info to the management system, it will affect the fuelling. Could also be the coil packs that can cause this, but coil packs usually cause a solid fault condition once they go bad. Also check your fuel pump, and also remember that some cars have 2 fuel filters.
AlanD Posted July 11, 2016 Posted July 11, 2016 (edited) Could be many things. Does it have fuel injection or carburettor? If FI, it could be the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor), or any of the sensors that feeds info to the Engine Management System. In my Audi's case, it was the Coolant Temp Sensor. If any of the sensors feeds bad info to the management system, it will affect the fuelling. Could also be the coil packs that can cause this, but coil packs usually cause a solid fault condition once they go bad. Also check your fuel pump, and also remember that some cars have 2 fuel filters.The one fuel line was quite worn and brittle so replaced that. Its a simple engine with no computers and has a carb. It doesn't happen too often but it does happen which means something is causing it. Edited July 11, 2016 by AlanD
dev null Posted July 11, 2016 Posted July 11, 2016 (edited) Has it got electronic ignition, or does it use the old style distributor with contact points? Also run the engine in the dark and see if the HT cords for the spark plugs are arcing to ground. This usually happens when the insulation starts breaking down from age and will just need to be replaced. Anyway a good idea to replace these if the car is older than 5 years or so. Edited July 11, 2016 by Moridin AlanD 1
intern Posted July 12, 2016 Posted July 12, 2016 15 year warranty Seriously?Jammer, I got a bit mixed up - it is a 10 year / 5 year warranty, which I just added together for 15. Here's the actual skinny:https://www.mmnz.co.nz/10-year-warranty/Doesn't matter anyway - the warranty doesn't transfer to second owner. And in any event, something tells me it isn't worth the paper it's written on, after my experiences with Mitsubishi. Won't touch that rubbish again.
LBKloppers Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 Indeed, I only saw the post now, I think also maybe sometimes we rely too much on technology, good case in point I guess,... as the vehicle agents I am almost certain they would have seen this issue before, it wouldn't be the first, but because the technician it seemed just followed the scan path instead of thinking a bit more about it shows just how reliant we have become on the technological side of time and issue management. The guys working on our cars who used to be mechanics are called technicians these days. I guess it has to do with their ability to read a diagnostic machine's code. I am of the opinion that the term technician is grossly overused. With all the new technology engines and services today, if a diagnostic machine cannot spit out an error code the "technician" doesn't have a clue. The error code is just there so they can fit new parts. Wannabe and Spoke101 2
Wannabe Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 My car (a 2005 Polo 1.6 Comfortline) became quite heavy on fuel all of a sudden.I serviced the car myself but the problem persisted.Took it to a friends workshop, where they connected the diagnostic machine to it, spit out an error code for "faulty Coolant Temp sensor"Replaced the sensor at a cost of R695.00 for the sensor from the Agents (could get one for R100.00 from Golfwagen !?)Car is back to its frugal sipping of fuel, and dips as low as 6.6L/100km in town driving. So yeah, there is times that the electronics are worth using. Skylark and Bateleur1 2
Bateleur1 Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 The guys working on our cars who used to be mechanics are called technicians these days. I guess it has to do with their ability to read a diagnostic machine's code. I am of the opinion that the term technician is grossly overused. With all the new technology engines and services today, if a diagnostic machine cannot spit out an error code the "technician" doesn't have a clue. The error code is just there so they can fit new parts. Tend to agree there. Put some diesel contaminated petrol in your car and see them grasping for answers.
cfcjim Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 (edited) The one fuel line was quite worn and brittle so replaced that. Its a simple engine with no computers and has a carb. It doesn't happen too often but it does happen which means something is causing it.Fuel, air and spark = combustion. You've checked the air and spark, but as mentioned above do check the HT leads for arcing.A spray mist bottle of water and a dark garage help with this test. Check the fuel filter: there could be rubbish in the fuel tank partially blocking flow now and again. My apologies, I didn't read your post properly. I see you changed the fuel filter. But my fuel tank rubbish point still stands. Edited July 13, 2016 by cfcjim
Bateleur1 Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 The one fuel line was quite worn and brittle so replaced that. Its a simple engine with no computers and has a carb. It doesn't happen too often but it does happen which means something is causing it. How soon after a cold start does the jerking happen. If not immediate and after some period of time I would not exclude the possibility of a fuel pump showing its age.
Cois Posted July 14, 2016 Posted July 14, 2016 Will have to see if I have the funds to book my car for a service next month. Have to replace the front tyres as well. Just glad when I bought it, it failed the road worthy test due to the rear tyres being worn and brake pads not existing anymore... Ford tried to pin it on my account, but I had non of that. They had to fix it on their account. They make more than enough money on a car to at least send it out in working condition...
Mojoman Posted July 14, 2016 Posted July 14, 2016 The one fuel line was quite worn and brittle so replaced that. Its a simple engine with no computers and has a carb. It doesn't happen too often but it does happen which means something is causing it.We had issues on our old Mazda Sting when it was warm, wound up being the coil that had a problem once it got warm.
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