SLINX Posted October 4, 2016 Share Hi I have a set of shimano brakes. BL m445 levers and BR m446 calipers. Ive been told that some brakes are bled from the top down ie. through the funnel down the system or through a syringe pushing oil through the caliper and up into the funnel. Apparently its either or and there is a risk of damaging the brakes if i get it wrong. most of the videos Ive watched show it being done from the bottom up then top down. Could someone please shed some light on the topic and offer one or two pearls of wisdom? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JXV Posted October 4, 2016 Share go to the source and download the manufacturer's service instructions - si.shimano.com Your brakes can use the funnel system. Bottom up then drain from the top down. Best to find the manual and get all the specific instructions. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Edited October 4, 2016 by JXV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intern Posted October 5, 2016 Share YouTube is my go-to. Did the pads and bled the brakes on my BMW X5 last week, easy as pie thanks to YouTube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted October 5, 2016 Share http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/how-to-bleed-new-shimano-brakes/ Best guide I've ever found. johannrissik, MORNE , andydude and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLINX Posted October 5, 2016 Share shot guys will give it a poke tonight. so far my bleed kit cost is at about R220 which isnt bad. max wax mineral oil R95 and shimano funnel R95 and some odds n ends. not bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikebloke Posted October 5, 2016 Share take your pads out and put them far away ..clean your disks and any spills with alcohol before replacing the pads or it will cost you more money pads + mineral oil = junk berg_fiets, Andrew_Smith, JXV and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted October 5, 2016 Share take your pads out and put them far away ..clean your disks and any spills with alcohol before replacing the pads or it will cost you more money pads + mineral oil = junk Not if its metal pads , my caliper exploded once and mineral oil got everywhere soaked them in acetone overnight and burned the excess off the next morning ....good as new but ja resin pads you can just throw away. Edited October 5, 2016 by BaGearA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted October 5, 2016 Share http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/how-to-bleed-new-shimano-brakes/ Best guide I've ever found.shotto for the link! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravity Posted October 5, 2016 Share and don't be an idiot like me and do it in the lounge....... Capricorn, shaper, Hairy and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shebeen Posted January 25, 2017 Share been having some snot and trane with AVID XX brake bleeds. Got the bike second hand, so not actually sure how long it's been between bleeds (at least 18 months). I've managed to get them to work fine, BUT after a lot of pt I only ended up doing half a job.I've got the SRAM pdf manual, the youtube clips and and the explanations and I can't get the first basic step right. Pushing fluid from calliper up to lever. I'm guessing the lever port is blocked somehow, but it is on both brakes. I've just pulled the air out of the calliper and justed with the lever. Have done the pad contact and lever reach adjust as per instruction (and tried every possible option) any advice?http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/bleeding-brakes-cant-push-hydraulic-fluids-caliber-lever-juicy-carbon-826807.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabe Posted January 25, 2017 Share been having some snot and trane with AVID XX brake bleeds. Got the bike second hand, so not actually sure how long it's been between bleeds (at least 18 months). I've managed to get them to work fine, BUT after a lot of pt I only ended up doing half a job.I've got the SRAM pdf manual, the youtube clips and and the explanations and I can't get the first basic step right. Pushing fluid from calliper up to lever. I'm guessing the lever port is blocked somehow, but it is on both brakes. I've just pulled the air out of the calliper and justed with the lever. Have done the pad contact and lever reach adjust as per instruction (and tried every possible option) any advice?http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/bleeding-brakes-cant-push-hydraulic-fluids-caliber-lever-juicy-carbon-826807.html Depending where you are situated, contact Marc Rich at Attitude Cycles in Brackenfell.He is my go to man at the odd occasion that my Sram/Avids needs attention.He rebuild my Elixer's, and they are now just as potent as the set of XX1's I also have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane_Bosch Posted January 25, 2017 Share When it comes to bleeding brakes I have a simple 4 step procedure 1. Take bike to shop2. Wait for call from shop to say it's done3. Pay the shop4. Leave with bike AdamA and marko35s 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted January 26, 2017 Share been having some snot and trane with AVID XX brake bleeds. Got the bike second hand, so not actually sure how long it's been between bleeds (at least 18 months). I've managed to get them to work fine, BUT after a lot of pt I only ended up doing half a job.I've got the SRAM pdf manual, the youtube clips and and the explanations and I can't get the first basic step right. Pushing fluid from calliper up to lever. I'm guessing the lever port is blocked somehow, but it is on both brakes. I've just pulled the air out of the calliper and justed with the lever. Have done the pad contact and lever reach adjust as per instruction (and tried every possible option) any advice?http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/bleeding-brakes-cant-push-hydraulic-fluids-caliber-lever-juicy-carbon-826807.html Disconnect the hose at the lever and see if you can get fluid to come up through the hose. If you battle, then you'll need to replace the compression nut, barb and olive before bleeding. If fluid flows though easily, you'll need to rebuild the lever. Your LBS should be able to order you the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikebloke Posted January 26, 2017 Share When it comes to bleeding brakes I have a simple 4 step procedure 1. Take bike to shop2. Wait for call from shop to say it's done3. Pay the shop4. Leave with bike your bike shop must luv it when they see you and your credit card coming its brake bleeding dude ...its easy (mostly)man up or just ask droo.... Edited January 26, 2017 by bikebloke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shebeen Posted January 30, 2017 Share Shot, survived 200km+ at oak valley, but will give this a go now. if not then it's time to turn over to the experts. Disconnect the hose at the lever and see if you can get fluid to come up through the hose. If you battle, then you'll need to replace the compression nut, barb and olive before bleeding. If fluid flows though easily, you'll need to rebuild the lever. Your LBS should be able to order you the kit. I've read his book, with all the tricks he pulled I don't think he'll have an issue with my bike (his namesake revolutionised oil trading, Glencore is his legacy)Depending where you are situated, contact Marc Rich at Attitude Cycles in Brackenfell.He is my go to man at the odd occasion that my Sram/Avids needs attention.He rebuild my Elixer's, and they are now just as potent as the set of XX1's I also have. Disconnect the hose at the lever and see if you can get fluid to come up through the hose. If you battle, then you'll need to replace the compression nut, barb and olive before bleeding. If fluid flows though easily, you'll need to rebuild the lever. Your LBS should be able to order you the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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