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Posted

Hi guys,

 

Advise please.

 

I recently bought my wife a secondhand road bike, that fit our budget.  The bike was fitted with an old set of carbon Bontrager wheels with gatorskin tubbies on.  A cycle shop in Stellenbosch gave them a decent service, replaced two bearings, and noted that they're 100% apart from that.  The tubbies are at the end of their life.  Off course I took the wheels and put them on my road bike.

 

Not knowing tubbies for road (I'm more of a mountain biker, recently venturing into triathlons) I'm a bit sceptical to use them, seeing as you cannot quickly fix a tire, should the need arise.  Also, I don't want to permanently cycle around with a spare tubby at R1000 a pop in my rear pocket.

 

I see my options as the following:

 

1.  Sell/trade the wheels for a decent set of clinchers.

2.  Replace the tubbies (R2000) and get continue riding with them.

3.  Replace the tubbies, get a cheap set of exercise wheels, and keep the tubbies as race wheels.

 

Option 3 looks like a bit of a schlep, as I'll have to replace brake pads for races as well.  Will also be the priciest option.

 

So, which option would you say is best?  And if I go for option 1, do you have any idea of what they'll be worth?

 

Bad image of the wheels, I know.

 

post-63136-0-67494300-1488807422_thumb.jpg

 

post-63136-0-67494300-1488807422_thumb.jpg

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Posted

The trend is towards carbon clinchers since there are such good technology out there these days (with improved braking surfaces).

Posted

Option 3 is the way most do it with tubbies.

 

Switching brake pads is easy, its just 4 little bolts, slide old pads out and new in.

Posted

(disclaimer)I'm a bit of an old f@rt so this opinion is based on beliefs of yesteryear... :whistling:

 

There is just no better option for hard core performance, than a set of tubby wheels. Therefore I would go for option 3 without blinking an eye. (Indeed I wouldn't consider training on them)

 

 

However, now come the 101 questions. How far, how fast does she really want to go etc. If I she wants to break a 3 hour Argus and she's just about there, tubbies will pull her through.

If she's 4,5 hour rider, there really isn't much of a point to the lighter expensive hard core option is there? ;-)

Posted

The trend is towards carbon clinchers since there are such good technology out there these days (with improved braking surfaces).

 

I agree, but unfortunately not in my budget.

Posted

Option 3 is the way most do it with tubbies.

 

Switching brake pads is easy, its just 4 little bolts, slide old pads out and new in.

Thinking thats the way to go...

Posted

you def cant have clipon tribars and a saddle bag on a bike with tubbies :whistling: 

haha,

 

Its all about the budget though...

 

That is probably option 4....  sell all and get a better bike

Posted

Been cycling for the most part of 22 years.  Always had 2 sets of wheels.  Tubbies for racing.  Clinchers for training

 

But since 2012 I moved away from tubbies.

Expensive to replace

Impossible to repair

A bit of a bitch to put on and take off

The replacing of brake pads is a "effort"

 

I still have two sets of wheels.  But both clinchers.  One normal section wheel and then a deep section for "racing".  (For the lack of a better word 'cause funriders right?)

 

No switching of brake pads.

Once a year I put my racing tyres on the training wheels and new tekkies then for the racing hoops. 

If something should happen to one of the wheels (and I has happened before) then you can quickly just chuck the racing wheel on.

 

Very convenient.

 

If I was in your position, sell the tubbies and look for a nice set of clinchers that you are going to enjoy riding.

Posted

Been cycling for the most part of 22 years. Always had 2 sets of wheels. Tubbies for racing. Clinchers for training

 

But since 2012 I moved away from tubbies.

Expensive to replace

Impossible to repair

A bit of a bitch to put on and take off

The replacing of brake pads is a "effort"

 

I still have two sets of wheels. But both clinchers. One normal section wheel and then a deep section for "racing". (For the lack of a better word 'cause funriders right?)

 

No switching of brake pads.

Once a year I put my racing tyres on the training wheels and new tekkies then for the racing hoops.

If something should happen to one of the wheels (and I has happened before) then you can quickly just chuck the racing wheel on.

 

Very convenient.

 

If I was in your position, sell the tubbies and look for a nice set of clinchers that you are going to enjoy riding.

????????????

Thanks, good advice.

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