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Enduro on a budget...


Letum911

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Enduro on a budget...

 

The actual question is really, how tough is the general run of the mill enduro tracks? Is it possible to ride them, well enough to enjoy it and not feel like the bike is killing you, on a budget bike?

 

At this stage I own a DS Merida One-Twenty 26'er with some decent parts on there for it's age. XT brakes, SLX groupset.

 

My thinking was to upgrade the fork to something with 130mm travel and do an upgrade on the quality of the rear suspension. All and all I reckon I can do this for around R12k.

 

Would you consider this as an option, or is it better to hang on a bit and buy a second hand machine for R20k?

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You'd be able to do the vast majority of Enduro events comfortably on a Merida 120 with bigger fork. Heck, one dude did klipberg on a VIPA, and then also hardtails for those masochists out there. Even Ezel had a few guys on hardtails and 100mm machines.

 

It may be a bit sketch at times, but you can do it. A bigger bike would make it more enjoyable, sure, but your skill is the determining factor at the end of the day.

 

If you're looking at forking out 12k though, it may be worthwhile getting a 2nd hand frame and fork that will more accurately fit the purpose

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What is an enduro track/trail? and where are they (apart from ezel and klipberg which is not otherwise open for general riding)?

 

A trail is a trail is a trail, and is ride-able with any bike.

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What is an enduro track/trail? and where are they (apart from ezel and klipberg which is not otherwise open for general riding)?

 

A trail is a trail is a trail, and is ride-able with any bike.

In theory yes, but its not always a good idea to ride an unsuitable bike in a race unless you have the requisite skill or are willing to learn a few painful lessons and perhaps walk some sections. 

 

I swap between a 160mm forked HT and my big bike and the difference is huge in terms of comfort and how much you can get away with. That said I'd happily try the HT on any local enduro event but it is a very far cry from an XC Hardtail or marathon dual suspension in terms of geometry. 

 

To the OP. Look for a longer travel fork by all means  - I did that on my 100mm travel Raleigh a few years ago by adding a Reba 120. Slacking out the HTA a little and shortening the stem and widening the bars will help give you some extra confidence. 

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In theory yes, but its not always a good idea to ride an unsuitable bike in a race unless you have the requisite skill or are willing to learn a few painful lessons and perhaps walk some sections. 

 

I swap between a 160mm forked HT and my big bike and the difference is huge in terms of comfort and how much you can get away with. That said I'd happily try the HT on any local enduro event but it is a very far cry from an XC Hardtail or marathon dual suspension in terms of geometry. 

 

To the OP. Look for a longer travel fork by all means  - I did that on my 100mm travel Raleigh a few years ago by adding a Reba 120. Slacking out the HTA a little and shortening the stem and widening the bars will help give you some extra confidence. 

Yeah, it boils down to comfort.

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If you intend spending around 12k it makes far more sense to consider another bike. Saw a nuke mega for around that price in the classifieds. Having said that a merida 120 is not a bad bike for the intended purpose by any means. Just not worth forking that much cash out on when you can get the right a better tool for the job for around the same amount of money. And if you're patient and thinking about saving. You could probably get a used trance or something with a bit more modern geo for around 20k. 

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Don't let these guys tell you otherwise... You have to have at least 140mm front and back, no 32mm stanchions, wide wide rims (at least 30mm ID), a 40mm stem or shorter, at least 780mm bars with a minimun 20mm rise.. Ride flats, own a camel back, grow a beard, have at least 2.4" 1kg tires on, have the baggyest baggies in 'teal' or a lumo colour.... ummm..... long sleeve V-neck tech shirts of at least 7 clashing hues with shop/'sponsor' names on, a full face helmet or removeable chin bar, goggles and several flannel shirts worn either while riding or before/after for the beer ching shots....

 

Good luck fitting all that into 12k bro.... (quietly closes the door...)

Edited by Jewbacca
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Spend your money right and you can do a lot more than just a fork and rear shock. Especially if you stick to 26"

Could you possibly suggest a fork and shock to look at?

 

Don't let these guys tell you otherwise... You have to have at least 140mm front and back, no 32mm stanchions, wide wide rims (at least 30mm ID), a 40mm stem or shorter, at least 780mm bars with a minimun 20mm rise.. Ride flats, own a camel back, grow a beard, have at least 2.4" 1kg tires on, have the baggyest baggies in 'teal' or a lumo colour.... ummm..... long sleeve V-neck tech shirts of at least 7 clashing hues with shop/'sponsor' names on, a full face helmet or removeable chin bar, goggles and several flannel shirts worn either while riding or before/after for the beer ching shots....

 

Good luck fitting all that into 12k bro.... (quietly closes the door...)

The beard alone is worth more than R12k!! That being said, I think many people spend close to that a year on beard products

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If you can find someone selling a second hand fork for a decent price, and the seller is willing to take it to a suspension expert for a "health check", I would consider that as an option too. You can either get the same fork for less, or more fork for the same money.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey All, 

 

So this was my solution to a budget enduro build. The bike started out life as a 2011 GT Fury I bought from the classifieds on Bike Hub, thereafter is was a case of raiding the box o spares I have in the garage and scanning the classifieds on a daily basis to find components to complete the build. 

 

Build at this point in time (changes as "new" "better" parts come up for sale)

Frame 2011 GT Fury Alloy

1X10 XTR M986, with 11-40 sunrace cassette.

32 tooth narrow wide Rapide chain ring on the standard Truvativ Decent cranks.

Boxxer RC (coil spring, yellow soft to be exact)

Fox Van shock

XT brake levers with Deore calipers (mix and match from the garage, didnt like what was on the bike)

Lyne Contour dropper post

 

All and all this build has cost around 13k.

 

I have put just under 500km on her and whilst not the most pedal friendly bike certainly not the worst. I have made a few tweaks in those 500km to make the ride better, I got rid of the direct mount stem in favour of a 60mm stem to give a bit better reach, and lower the bar height. I have also "lowered" the crowns further down the stanchions by 20mm (180mm of stanchion between top of lower and bottom of crown in stead of the normal 200mm), I dont push the bike to the point that i will exceed 180mm of travel, but this does help lower the front end to keep the front wheel down when going uphill.

 

post-45554-0-55935100-1539006272_thumb.jpgpost-45554-0-94816700-1539006294_thumb.jpgpost-45554-0-34618200-1539006319_thumb.jpg

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