Enduro/gravity bike suspension and geo

[Old and Slow]

2 minutes ago, Meezo said:

a mate of mine, bought a normal socket and the shop he got it from grinded it down a bit to remove "chamfer" i'll find our which shop...

Cheers. I'll probably go that route. Quite happy to grind it myself.

2 minutes ago, Hairy said:

3D printer?

I don't know that a plastic socket will cut it. It recently got serviced at Omnico and I reckon it was tightened to within an inch of its life.

[Hairy]

1 minute ago, Trashy said:

Cheers. I'll probably go that route. Quite happy to grind it myself.

I don't know that a plastic socket will cut it. It recently got serviced at Omnico and I reckon it was tightened to within an inch of its life.

please see my corrected post, I first understood you were looking for tokens.

[thebob]

Buy a good 6 point socket (Gedore for me) and get the chamfer removed. A good engineering shop should be able to help you out

[Thermophage]

4 minutes ago, thebob said:

Buy a good 6 point socket (Gedore for me) and get the chamfer removed. A good engineering shop should be able to help you out

Impact socket is the simplest to find ye. 

But honestly a good shifting spanner is the easiest and still safe as it's basically un-chamfered.

[Old and Slow]

8 minutes ago, Thermophage said:

Impact socket is the simplest to find ye. 

But honestly a good shifting spanner is the easiest and still safe as it's basically un-chamfered.

I tried with a shifting spanner. Wasn't prepared to put any more force into it as it wasn't budging 😕

[Jewbacca]

1 hour ago, Headshot said:

What travel fork do you manage that on, because I can assure you if I was bottoming out my Yari, it would not be set up correctly on the damping front 🙂 

Anything I ride or have ridden for years. 100mm to 150mm... Various Pikes, A Yari, Fox Factory 34 and 36 and currently a Cane Creek Helm. 

I have always worked on the fact that if it doesn't bottom out, it's wrong.

[Thermophage]

9 minutes ago, Trashy said:

I tried with a shifting spanner. Wasn't prepared to put any more force into it as it wasn't budging 😕

You need a bigger one

[thebob]

1 hour ago, Jewbacca said:

Anything I ride or have ridden for years. 100mm to 150mm... Various Pikes, A Yari, Fox Factory 34 and 36 and currently a Cane Creek Helm. 

I have always worked on the fact that if it doesn't bottom out, it's wrong.

Each to their own. If you find a setup that works for you then go with it. With my setup I only bottom out if I hit something too hard or make a big mistake

[Jewbacca]

1 minute ago, thebob said:

Each to their own. If you find a setup that works for you then go with it. With my setup I only bottom out if I hit something too hard or make a big mistake

For sure. I am by no means saying I'm right, but if I'm not using all of my travel most of the time, then I'd want to.

I also set up at 30% sag, not 20. I want my suspension to fill in the brake bumps and chatter and keep me in contact with the ground as much as possible. Grip is life. 

These days I'm also basically James May, so don't take anything I say seriously. Moss grew on my wheels on some places at the Hoogekraal enduro

[PhilipV]

9 hours ago, StevieG said:

Was looking at cushcore, but hard to find locally. Running DHF2 front and rear, and so far so good, no punctures or rim dings yet. Not too fussed with the weight, but was also thinking along the lines of getting a faster rolling rear tyre with cushcore, and then keeping the dhf on the front.

A mate of mine was supposed too land a shipment of Cushcore a while ago. I think they are in Customs. They'll be hitting the market soon, and I'll post here when they are available. 

1 hour ago, Thermophage said:

 

But honestly a good shifting spanner is the easiest and still safe as it's basically un-chamfered.

An adjustable tool is never the right tool.  Why dont you guys have 24mm spanners? 

Fortunately my Revelation uses a cassette tool, so my big spanners stays at home. 

1 hour ago, Jewbacca said:

Anything I ride or have ridden for years. 100mm to 150mm... Various Pikes, A Yari, Fox Factory 34 and 36 and currently a Cane Creek Helm. 

I have always worked on the fact that if it doesn't bottom out, it's wrong.

me too. I ride my forks softer, and with more progression. I'm an old school softy MTBer. 

[Thermophage]

3 minutes ago, PhilipV said:

An adjustable tool is never the right tool.  Why dont you guys have 24mm spanners? 

Tell that to the vast majority of mechanics in the world

[Old and Slow]

44 minutes ago, PhilipV said:

A mate of mine was supposed too land a shipment of Cushcore a while ago. I think they are in Customs. They'll be hitting the market soon, and I'll post here when they are available. 

An adjustable tool is never the right tool.  Why dont you guys have 24mm spanners? 

Fortunately my Revelation uses a cassette tool, so my big spanners stays at home. 

me too. I ride my forks softer, and with more progression. I'm an old school softy MTBer. 

More progression makes it harder to bottom out for lighter riders though.

I worked closely with frame designers for a number of years, as well as with a world cup dh team and the consensus from frame manufacturers and suspension companies alike was that your suspension should be set up to bottom out on the worst hit you'll encounter in any particular ride.

[Rigardt@Scott]

10 hours ago, StevieG said:

Was looking at cushcore, but hard to find locally. Running DHF2 front and rear, and so far so good, no punctures or rim dings yet. Not too fussed with the weight, but was also thinking along the lines of getting a faster rolling rear tyre with cushcore, and then keeping the dhf on the front.

Some good news for you. We (THBC Distribution) are the new importers for SA. Our first stock is being delivered tomorrow evening, so from next week it will be freely available in SA again

Edited December 7, 2021 by Grease_Monkey

[RiverInTheRoad]

You need to bottom front and back at least once a ride. Thats why the travel is there. If you don't you are overbiked for that trail or your suspension setup is too stiff for your riding style.

Unfortunately most of us run Gwin pressures with kook skills. 

[StevieG]

14 hours ago, RiverInTheRoad said:

You need to bottom front and back at least once a ride. Thats why the travel is there. If you don't you are overbiked for that trail or your suspension setup is too stiff for your riding style.

Unfortunately most of us run Gwin pressures with kook skills. 

That's an interesting take on the subject, and haven't thought about it like that. I've only ever bottomed out my shock, and fork has been fine. 120mm shock, and 130mm fork. Am also the type of rider that sets and forgets, and actually have no clue as to how the bike "should" feel while cornering, jumping, etc. It just feels right, and I have no need to change anything.

[Wheelie87]

On 12/7/2021 at 9:13 AM, thebob said:

I have my Pike working very nicely with the following methodology (start with everything full open):

20% sag

Rebound set so the wheel doesn't jump off the floor when doing a big fast compression

HSC backed all the way out then one click in

LSC at 12 clicks from full closed. I found a nice spot where it help me up under braking, but wasn't too soft

Try a xSixx Foamo. Pretty light for the wide single ply version and should help keep the rims in one piece

Tried these recommended settings this AM on Armageddon (Jonkershoek) - felt very decent.
I added a few loose PSI's so I'm just peaking over 100 (RS recommends 110-115)
The forks felt stiffer less plush over rocks but experienced less (perceived) arm pump and had a very lekker decent.
O-ring sitting pretty underlining the DebonAir signage after the ride which I feel is a win.