ChrisF Posted April 16, 2019 Author Posted April 16, 2019 Just for you .... CdT85, Moolz and Mongoose! 3
ChrisF Posted April 16, 2019 Author Posted April 16, 2019 (edited) I prepped the tools, and was ready for today's dis-assembly before Maritz joined me in the garage. Time to remove the BB .... For this you need to alert, as the "thread-direction" reverses side-to-side on the bike. Just LOOK. Each part of the BB shows "L" and "R" respectively, and it also shows the direction to tighten. Take NOTE of the number of spacers on each side ! This determines the off-set of the front gear blades with respect to rear cluster ... small mistake here may cause you endless hassles later .... It certainly is not difficult, just be alert, take notes and photos, and make sure to re-assemble correctly. Check the bearings to see if it rotates smoothly. When you clean it, dont rub the dirt into the bearing dust cover ... Okay, enough of removing the BB ... Time to remove the various items from the handle bars .... First the "side-bars" Time to "blow off" the silicone grips. I simply LOVE using the air compressor, blowing a bit of air between the grip and handlebar. I put the "needle" ander the grip, then close my fingers around this section, forcing the air to flow under the grip. It takes a few seconds, and then suddenly the grip glides off the handle bar Loosen the bolts on the brake levers and gear shifters. With everything loose on the handle bar it is time to start removing the items. Since the brake levers are on the outside we start with the rear brakes Remove the clips and free the brake hose. Now remove the front brake Remove the front gear selector cable, and then the derailure Repeat the process for the rear derailure Almost done Time to remove the handle-bars, and remove the front fork from the frame Remove the spacers, and top dust covers, and the top bearing, and the shock comes out ... remember to remove the bottom bearing from the frame Last step - open the quick release, and drop the frame from the seat post in the workshop stand. And you are left with a table full of components ..... Edited April 16, 2019 by ChrisF Patensie, DJR, Hairy and 1 other 4
ChrisF Posted April 16, 2019 Author Posted April 16, 2019 For those wanting to remove a BB - typical Shimano BB with screw in ends .... You will need tools like this : You need a "female spline" socket that fits onto the male spline of the BB. YES, size matters .... Check the BB number, and make sure you get the correct tool. OR get a tool with the correct insert ... In this photo the ParkTool has two socket options. The socket is removed from the wrench, and the other socket inserted. The PRO-tool version uses the largest socket on the tool, and includes two inserts for smaller BB-sockets. The pro-workshop version would be a socket only, that gets used with a torque wrench for correct fitment Take note of the tips in the previous post, ie number and placement of spacers, R&L marks, etc. I see that "Red Locktight" was used on this BB. I personally prefer the "blue" one ... but would appreciate feedback from the experienced on the Hub. DJR 1
DJR Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 .......I see that "Red Locktight" was used on this BB. I personally prefer the "blue" one ... but would appreciate feedback from the experienced on the Hub.I only use blue, everywhere things tend to work loose or cause creaks and noises. Also where you REALLY don't want things to loosen, like brake rotor bolts, brake caliper mounting bolts etc. ChrisF 1
MORNE Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 (edited) snipI see that "Red Locktight" was used on this BB. I personally prefer the "blue" one ... but would appreciate feedback from the experienced on the Hub.blue is fine...the way they turn in on either side in opposite directions means when pedalling you actually 'tighten' them further as far as i remember. For what it's worth, my previous Shimano saint BB came with blue thread lock standard. red is for more permanent applications...stuff you really are not going to be taking off soon or without heat. (heat breaks down locktite) Edited April 16, 2019 by morneS555 ChrisF 1
ChrisF Posted April 16, 2019 Author Posted April 16, 2019 Jip, I also thought "red" is for permanent installations, and "blue" for items that requires maintenance at some point.
Jacoo Posted April 16, 2019 Posted April 16, 2019 This is such a cool project!And the side by side DIY aspect warms the cockles of my heart. Be wary of adding Green cables, hoses and bottle cages. If the greens don't match it starts to look a bit like a confused chameleon. Rather let the frames paint job do the talking and have it underpinned by black than have three different shades of green distracting from a nice paint job. We are keeping my wife's XS 26er hardtail and a couple of nice forks and wheels for this exact reason. The kids are close together, so I'll probably get another frame along the way and keep it on the garage rafters.Couldn't agree more, and coloured cables just look messy anyway. Cables are not meant to be a feature, one 9f the reasons internal routing is becoming the norm these days. And why fixies look so cool. The cleaner a bike the better it looks. Hairy and duanelr 2
ChrisF Posted April 17, 2019 Author Posted April 17, 2019 The frame is going to CBR after Easter I spent some time at Marks' Workshop today. Got a nice deal sorted. I buy most of my parts there, and they service my bikes. Arranged that I will be buying various parts for this build from Mark, we will do the fitment ourselves ... then take the bike to Mark for a final check-up if needed. Nice knowing there is that safety net if we get stuck with any part of the re-build. Certainly would be "easier" to just drop off the frame at Mark and pick up the bike .... but one way or another Maritz and I are set to build this bike from the frame up Hairy, DJR and Patensie 3
Wayne pudding Mol Posted April 17, 2019 Posted April 17, 2019 CBR will do a great job, very cool project
DJR Posted April 17, 2019 Posted April 17, 2019 (edited) The frame is going to CBR after Easter I spent some time at Marks' Workshop today. Got a nice deal sorted. I buy most of my parts there, and they service my bikes. Arranged that I will be buying various parts for this build from Mark, we will do the fitment ourselves ... then take the bike to Mark for a final check-up if needed. Nice knowing there is that safety net if we get stuck with any part of the re-build. Certainly would be "easier" to just drop off the frame at Mark and pick up the bike .... but one way or another Maritz and I are set to build this bike from the frame up The easiest bike build is always the one where you had a good functional bike, disassembled it and then put it together from scratch. Everything works together! The difficult ones are those where you are assembling a variety of different parts that have never been together to make a whole! There is always that one curve ball. Bolt too long! Not enough space! Why does the thingemagig not fit into the thingamabob? Oh, it's the wrong way around! Those issues! Enjoy! Edited April 21, 2019 by DJR ChrisF and Hairy 2
ChrisF Posted April 21, 2019 Author Posted April 21, 2019 Two QUESTIONS for those in the know .... 1) chain stay protector - would love to hear your recommendations for this. Clear stick on protector ?Wrap rubber (inner tube) around the chain stay ?what else ? 2) tires - not that many 26'' options out there .... but we certainly do want to go tubeless.I read some going for different options for the front and rear. Then I read the one going for "X" in the rear, while another uses "X" in the front .... I would appreciate some info on why people chose a particular tire/compound/block-pattern for either the front or rear ....Maritz will be using these tires on the Tygerberg club trails, and similar routes alsewhere.
DJR Posted April 21, 2019 Posted April 21, 2019 ........1) chain stay protector - would love to hear your recommendations for this. Clear stick on protector ?Wrap rubber (inner tube) around the chain stay ?what else ?..........The wrapped inner tube works but it just doesn't look good, especially if you have a good looking bike. i would go clear stick on or fake carbon stick on. Another alternative is a neoprene type wrap around that fastens with velcro. It is neater and looks better than inner tube and is easily removed. I have also seen old retro type (thin) road handle bar tape wrapped around the chainstay and it looked great compared to wrapped inner tube. ChrisF 1
Jacoo Posted April 21, 2019 Posted April 21, 2019 (edited) Are you going to be using a clutch derailleur? If so you wont have much chain slap so going with that clear stuff or anything thin is okay. If youre not using a clutch rd then id go with neoprene, inner tube or anything thick since you'll be having a lot of slap. Edited April 21, 2019 by Jacoo DJR 1
ChrisF Posted April 21, 2019 Author Posted April 21, 2019 The easiest bike build is always the one where you had a good functional bike, disassembled it and then put it together from scratch. .... Too true .... But what is the fun in that ... I noticed the slightest "buckle" in the rims .... just enough to get me to embark on a little project .... Even did a little "CAD" design ... I could weld on a nut, or use my hand tool skills ... And it all comes together with ONE bolt Maybe R200 worth of parts to make a tool that cost way too much in shop ... Okay, okayyyy, the "dial indicator" is a temp fix .... will get a cheap dial gauge from Addendorf ... BUT, must admit, this cheapy dial actually works nice How to remove a slight buckle from a rim : 1) first check ALL the spokes ... press the pairs together, feeling for a loose or over tightened spoke .... 2) Use the dial and find that section that "butts out". I like to mark it with a two pieces of masking tape, knowing the start and finish helps you to plan the repairs. 3) In the photo above the section between the tape markers butt out to the LEFT, thus : - the LEFT spokes to be released a bit- the RIGHT spokes to be tightened a bit 4) I start off with a "quarter turn" in the middle of this section, tapering down to 1/8th of a turn on either side of the tape (tightening on the right, releasing on the left) 5) Test again, also take a moment to feel the spoke tensions !! 6) Typically I have to repeat this process 2 or 3 times. 7) there was one section that butted to the RIGHT ... for this section I switched the dial marker to the right, and repeated all the steps .... CdT85, Jacoo, Patensie and 2 others 5
ChrisF Posted April 21, 2019 Author Posted April 21, 2019 Are you going to be using a clutch derailleur? If so you wont have much chain slap so going with that clear stuff or anything thin is okay. If youre not using a clutch rd then id go with neoprene, inner tube or anything thick since you'll be having a lot of slap. Aaaahhhhh ... thanks. Clear cover it is Yes, parts are on order .... more of this later ....
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now