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Posted

Thanks Dirkitech :thumbup:

 

I use a variety of pads and polishes depending on the look I want. For a high gloss shine, Autosol metal polish is first choice but sometimes I need to get the blemishes out of the metal using wet sandpaper in various grit sizes. For a burnished type finish (like on the stem) I use a scouring pad (like scotchbrite) on my drilling machine. I use that to get rid of rust on chrome as well but you need to be very careful not to remove the chrome. I also make use of normal tin foil rolled into a ball to hit rust as well. I also make use of my Dremel and its various attachments. 

Fascinating... thank you Buff!

 

I'm impressed by the result on the seat as well :clap:

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Posted

Last to get cleaned up was the wheel set. The bike runs a non standard 650 size rim & tire. The exiting tires were totally perished but I managed to source some from a small bike shop in Kuilsriver (the name eludes me now, sorry) for the pricey sum of R275 per tire.

 

Then it was time to put it all together with fresh cables and bar tape and take it for a ride. It's probably been 30 years since I've ridden an old 5 speed friction shifting Raleigh and in one ride it took me straight back to my youth growing up in King Williams Town in the 70s/80s... great times :thumbup:

 

That concludes the Raleigh build, I hope you found it interesting.

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Posted (edited)

...........The saddle got some love with numerous coats of Dubbin which it sucked up eagerly. I'll still give it a few more coats as the leather was very dry.

The very best thing for getting dried out old leather things soft and supple again is something called Neats Foot Oil that you can find from Woodheads in the City Centre. It is a thin oil that penetrates very easily and can be followed up with a wax like Dubbin. Another way to get Dubbin to penetrate better is just to rub it on and then blow it with a hair drier on hot.

Edited by DJR
Posted

The very best thing for getting dried out old leather things soft and supple again is something called Neats Foot Oil that you can find from Woodheads in the City Centre. It is a thin oil that penetrates very easily and can be followed up with a wax like Dubbin. Another way to get Dubbin to penetrate better is just to rub it on and then blow it with a hair drier on hot.

 

Thanks for the tip DJR  :thumbup:  The product I used wasn't actually Dubbin but a very similar type wax based product that you mix with oil. We got it when we bought our leather couches and it works very well to draw into the leather. I left it in the sun to warm up the wax as well.

Posted

really cool stuff - I'm having my first go at a restoration although mine is a whole lot easier and so it should be with my limited bike skills.  DJR gave me a good tip which I see you did and that's tin foil and water on chrome - google told me to add salt which really worked.

 

I have done some old cars - horse saddle leather is cheap and works too on leather

Posted (edited)

This little SA built Sancini was done before the Raleigh but I never bothered documenting the clean up as the bike was in very good original condition. The paint work hardly has any marks on it at all.

All it needed was a full strip down, re-greasing, new cables and a good clean. It's running a full Shimano Exage300EX 6 speed index shifting.

 

This little bike is currently for sale @ R3000 neg.

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Edited by Buff_SA
Posted

Onto the little pink Lejeune, built by Gotti Hansen. It's was running a full Shimano 105, 6 speed index shifter and built with Reynold 501SL tubing. I restored it for my wife but she showed no interest in road riding so it went up for sale and was sold a few weeks ago.

 

Before the strip down it was in a sorry state.

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Posted

that turned out awesome.

 

Its a pity you cant get the leather style tow clip straps anymore, that would have completed the look.

I make them by cutting new strips from a thick stiff piece of leather and adding them to the refurbished old metal clips with a new rivet. I buy un-dyed leather and then, after cutting, I dye them the colour I want. Black or brown mostly. The only colour that doesn't work well is white. Everything you need is available from Woodheads, but be warned, the right kind of leather is expensive. If you go there, look at the offcuts first, before you buy a large piece that will be enough for a lifetimes worth of straps. The metal clips can also be bought new, but you will then have to buy it with a nasty nylon webbing strap and cut that off to use the clip for making up your own leather one. I made these last year.

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Posted

what size frame is that?

This little SA built Sancini was done before the Raleigh but I never bothered documenting the clean up as the bike was in very good original condition. The paint work hardly has any marks on it at all.

All it needed was a full strip down, re-greasing, new cables and a good clean. It's running a full Shimano Exage300EX 6 speed index shifting.

 

This little bike is currently for sale @ R3000 neg.

Posted

I make them by cutting new strips from a thick stiff piece of leather and adding them to the refurbished old metal clips with a new rivet. I buy un-dyed leather and then, after cutting, I dye them the colour I want. Black or brown mostly. The only colour that doesn't work well is white. Everything you need is available from Woodheads, but be warned, the right kind of leather is expensive. If you go there, look at the offcuts first, before you buy a large piece that will be enough for a lifetimes worth of straps. The metal clips can also be bought new, but you will then have to buy it with a nasty nylon webbing strap and cut that off to use the clip for making up your own leather one. I made these last year.

nice.

 

Lots of good info in this thread.

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