Stuff you learn(t) the hard way by being your own mechanic

[Ant in the NL]

Picked up these almost new MTB 29er (ALEX) rims and (Schwalbe) tyres for gratis from a local resident here by me last weekend - my humble Avalanche 29er is using stock rims and rubber and I want to see if it's worth me tryna get this to fit. 

Several apparent issues, thru axle vs quick release (on my Avalanche - see pic), cassette compatability, etc...

Opinions welcome on if it's too much drama to get the new rims on my bike and if I should get rid of them (the rims) and simply retain the rubber?

[justinafrika]

2 hours ago, Ant in the NL said:

Picked up these almost new MTB 29er (ALEX) rims and (Schwalbe) tyres for gratis from a local resident here by me last weekend - my humble Avalanche 29er is using stock rims and rubber and I want to see if it's worth me tryna get this to fit. 

Several apparent issues, thru axle vs quick release (on my Avalanche - see pic), cassette compatability, etc...

Opinions welcome on if it's too much drama to get the new rims on my bike and if I should get rid of them (the rims) and simply retain the rubber?

Both sets have 32 holes so pretty easy if you put your old hubs (+ convenient for a hub service) onto the new wheels if spokes are still an appropriate length.  Eliminates cassette and disc compatibility concerns as well if those are still good.  If spokes tend to bust after that you prolly need to replace spokes, perhaps best to fit new spokes from the off.  

A lower-cost and pretty easy option for upgrading those stock hoops.  Even better if those newer hoops also have a wider ID, BONUS.

 

Edited September 4, 2024 by justinafrika

[Alouette3]

You can get a through axle to quick release conversion, but that still leaves the cassette compatibility.

Otherwise put them up for trade with some that has some quick release wheels, and keep the rubber.

Doubt it will be worth the money to build over the rims to 2 new wheels. At least R500 per wheel just in labour to build. 

Save the cash for a new bike down the line. Enjoy the Schwalbe tires

Edited September 4, 2024 by Alouette3

[justinafrika]

10 hours ago, Alouette3 said:

You can get a through axle to quick release conversion, but that still leaves the cassette compatibility.

Not an option, he's going from QR to through-axle as seen in his pics.  

[Alouette3]

6 minutes ago, justinafrika said:

Not an option, he's going from QR to through-axle as seen in his pics.  

His bike is the Avalanche which has QR as can be seen in the photo and the new wheels with tires are through axle

Edited September 5, 2024 by Alouette3

[justinafrika]

On 9/4/2024 at 8:41 PM, Alouette3 said:

You can get a through axle to quick release conversion, but that still leaves the cassette compatibility.

 

On 9/5/2024 at 7:50 AM, Alouette3 said:

His bike is the Avalanche which has QR as can be seen in the photo and the new wheels with tires are through axle

Nah, here's why.  The new wheelset may be non-boost 100mmX15mm front and 12mm rear, but more likely 110X15 (front) and 148X12 (rear).  That QR frame is 100mmX9mm front and 135mm wide at the rear.  A through-axle to QR adaptor can not fit into that QR frame as is. 

There is a way to widen the rear dropouts on alu frames.  It's risky though and I wouldn't chance it on a frame I want to keep.  Also dropouts won't be perfectly parallel after that.

I did that solution I offered earlier (putting the old rear hub onto the new upgrade wheelset) on a QR frame I really like, along with a Marzocchi Bomber Z2 fork that came off a new bike.  Lucky me got it at 75% off the retail price.

This solution works.  Very happy with it and mostdef worth it as well, especially on the trails.

PS. Am a bit intrigued by your pseudonym, what's the connection if I may ask?  FWIW I would have been on a medevac with an Alouette III that ditched into the sea off Cape St Francis after losing power (edit: suddenly losing all power).  I had taken a day's leave because the Supers and Seal Point waves were going to pump.  My mates and colleagues on that Alouette were badly injured with one being paralysed below the waist.

Almost as nuts, I was in the surf lineup at Seal's when I saw my colleagues overhead on their way to that disastrous medevac.

Edited September 6, 2024 by justinafrika

[RobertWhitehead]

Two things that were confirmed this morning:

1) I'm not a fan of droppers

2) The easiest and best way to remove Easy grips is with a stanley

[droo]

On 10/19/2024 at 6:58 AM, RobertWhitehead said:

Two things that were confirmed this morning:

1) I'm not a fan of droppers

2) The easiest and best way to remove Easy grips is with a compressor and a duster nozzle

Fixed it for you.

[madmarc]

1 hour ago, droo said:

Fixed it for you.

I concur 

[The Ouzo]

Make sure all the fittings of your bleed kit are tightened properly before bleeding brakes.

 

Bike has done close to 35 000km, in this time I've never serviced bearings or bled / changed brake fluid. Decided last week, that since I'm taking a few days off the bike, and I'm on leave, I'd take my time, strip the bike down and service what has been neglected.

When it came to the brake bleeding, I started with the front, I could not figure out why there is so much air in the system since they have been working 100% fine. Decided to check the fittings and realised the one fitting was not screwed in tight. Luckily its the front brake, so hose is not long and it was quick enough to get all air out the system after that.

[MrJacques]

I'm struggling with a stuck pressfit bb. Tried hammering to no avail. Would a bearing puller tool work?

My concern is that there isn't enough exposed bb shell around it for the cup to hold onto, if that makes sense.

 

 

[Dusty]

2 hours ago, MrJacques said:

I'm struggling with a stuck pressfit bb. Tried hammering to no avail. Would a bearing puller tool work?

My concern is that there isn't enough exposed bb shell around it for the cup to hold onto, if that makes sense.

 

 

Press fit BBs........eish.

That is when I rely on my local bike shop.

[MrJacques]

27 minutes ago, Dusty said:

Press fit BBs........eish.

That is when I rely on my local bike shop.

Probably the best and easiest option. It doesn't look too difficult if you have the correct tools, but I'd still prefer threaded. At least I got the drive side one out now. Left not budging, yet.

Install doesn't look too difficult. I'll probably get some threaded rod, nuts and washers to make a press. Depending on how well that works I might buy more proper tools.

[droo]

1 hour ago, MrJacques said:

I'm struggling with a stuck pressfit bb. Tried hammering to no avail. Would a bearing puller tool work?

My concern is that there isn't enough exposed bb shell around it for the cup to hold onto, if that makes sense.

 

 

I'd guess your problem is that the frame isn't supported close enough to the BB for you to be able to get enough shock through the interface to knock it out. Ideally a block of wood with a hole in it the size of the OD of the BB would work to support the frame so you can get a proper whack in, but that's a very specific size of bit you'd need to make it. Making 2 V blocks might be easier to do but more difficult to manage on your own.

That extractor should do the job if you're up for buying tools, but for a quick and dirty fix you can knock the bearing out of the shell which should remove enough of the preload to get the shell out. afterwards. To get the bearing out, lay the shell flat on a block of wood for support - no need for anything special, you'll be able to move it enough just on a flat surface to get it loose, then back in the stand for the last bit.

[MrJacques]

12 minutes ago, droo said:

I'd guess your problem is that the frame isn't supported close enough to the BB for you to be able to get enough shock through the interface to knock it out. Ideally a block of wood with a hole in it the size of the OD of the BB would work to support the frame so you can get a proper whack in, but that's a very specific size of bit you'd need to make it. Making 2 V blocks might be easier to do but more difficult to manage on your own.

That extractor should do the job if you're up for buying tools, but for a quick and dirty fix you can knock the bearing out of the shell which should remove enough of the preload to get the shell out. afterwards. To get the bearing out, lay the shell flat on a block of wood for support - no need for anything special, you'll be able to move it enough just on a flat surface to get it loose, then back in the stand for the last bit.

Thanks

Any tips for installation? Would a diy solution work? I suppose the most important part would be to get the bb in straight and have a washer that covers the entire area.

[droo]

2 minutes ago, MrJacques said:

Thanks

Any tips for installation? Would a diy solution work? I suppose the most important part would be to get the bb in straight and have a washer that covers the entire area.

"A DIY solution" is a very broad spectrum, I haven't seen what you're capable of... no offence meant, but I've seen some questionable work in my time.

But yes, getting it in straight is the most important bit. And the easiest thing to break in the process is the sleeve between the two cups, which will go out of alignment if a mouse farts in the next room.

This is one of those jobs that I'd say either get the tool or get the LBS to do it for you. Unless you have a carpenter's bench vise, which is about the only non-standard tool I can think of with big enough parallel jaws to get the job done.