Stuff you learn(t) the hard way by being your own mechanic

[Jbr]

2 minutes ago, droo said:

I'll ask too then - what hub?

Different hubs will have different solutions for the same issue.

DT 350 - usually a freehub seal that's not been seated properly after a bearing replacement. Seat seal properly, problem solved.

DT 370 - knackered freehub spacer. Replace spacer, problem solved.

Most other hubs - missing freehub spacer. Fit spacer.

Freehub drag is never a preload issue, there is no hub that has preload adjust on the freehub aside from Shimano, which requires completely stripping the freehub and adding or removing shims.

it's a mavic hub

[droo]

Just now, Jbr said:

it's a mavic hub

There's your first problem...

I also won't be able to internet you any advice unfortunately, they change their hub designs like most of us change socks. I'd be happy to have a look if you can get it to me.

[Ant in the NL]

Anyone know how to repair or what to replace a LTwoo 1x12 rear derailleur with? Annoying chain slap in the high gear and it seems as if the cassette doesn't engage immediately when you pedal from start or from coasting. Avalanche Reflex Pro 29er standard equipment as bought from Durbanville Cycles around 18 months ago - 3000kms on it. Any guidance or advice will be appreciated 👍🏼

[droo]

1 hour ago, AntVanR said:

Anyone know how to repair or what to replace a LTwoo 1x12 rear derailleur with? Annoying chain slap in the high gear and it seems as if the cassette doesn't engage immediately when you pedal from start or from coasting. Avalanche Reflex Pro 29er standard equipment as bought from Durbanville Cycles around 18 months ago - 3000kms on it. Any guidance or advice will be appreciated 👍🏼

99% sure that's not the derailleur. Far more likely to be the freehub.

[Ant in the NL]

26 minutes ago, droo said:

99% sure that's not the derailleur. Far more likely to be the freehub.

That's great insight, thank you 👍🏼👍🏼 So, how would I know what part to buy to replace the existing unit? Avalanche bike company say "any Shimano", but is it really that easy?

[droo]

10 minutes ago, AntVanR said:

That's great insight, thank you 👍🏼👍🏼 So, how would I know what part to buy to replace the existing unit? Avalanche bike company say "any Shimano", but is it really that easy?

Take the freehub off and take it to a shop, there are a few different variants.

[RobertWhitehead]

On 2/5/2024 at 8:16 AM, Jbr said:

I think it’s more a case of wrong end cap

This 👆. Try to remove the fixing bolt on the one side and swop the end caps round, i.e. push the thru axle through the wheel from the other side. Chances are that this may resolve the issue

Edited February 6, 2024 by RobertWhitehead
Expanded

[MrJacques]

Saw this gap while washing my bike. I recently swapped handlebars and check headset bearings. I'm wondering if I put everything back together correctly. I should take more photos before taking things apart. I took one of the cable routing, but not of this part.

It feels fine, turns freely and there's no knocking. I've also seen photos online of other bikes with the same gap. I'm probably going to take it apart again just to be sure.

[MrJacques]

Just now, BaGearA said:

You very likely have a cane creek crown race which has a very high stack.

 

I think its just holding your bearing a fair way up and that's creating this kind of gap you see there.

 

 

It's a Suntour AION, not sure it would have a Cane Creek race, but maybe something similar. Thanks.

[ChrisF]

Question time .... hoping to learn from the collective experience on the Hub.

 

Busy with a strip down and rebuild of a MTB.

 

It was quickly noted this bike has done a couple of muddy rides, and have not been rebuilt since ....

 

Interesting to see the REAR WHEEL :

- LEFT side - bearing in good condition and the grease looking good.

- RIGHT side --- water ingress, sings of surface rust on the free body  bearings dirty, grease looking seriously degraded.

 

First time I saw such a discrepancy between left an right.

 

 

QUESTION - The BB was rough, so I opened it up ... water in the bottom of the BB  It is possible that this is from washing the bike before putting it on the bike stand.  Still, this would mean water can get in with each wash or wet ride ...

 

 

Your thoughts on drilling a drainage hole in the bottom of the BB ?

 

Yes, BB bearings also shot ....

 

 

 

The steering tube top bearing is shot, the bottom still looking good ....

 

 

 

PS - cup and cone bearings for the wheels, sealed bearings for the BB

Edited February 18, 2024 by ChrisF

[RobertWhitehead]

52 minutes ago, ChrisF said:

 

 

Your thoughts on drilling a drainage hole in the bottom of the BB:

yes, if it is your own bike and you want to extend the life of the components then definitely. 

PS: the water also enters from the seat post 

PPS: fun fact, there's a main stream manufacturer that up until as late as 2019 did not include a drainage hole on their 50-80k carbon models, the result: cracks around the pivots like clockwork. I've done quite a few of these suckers in the last year or so and I tell this to the new owner almost as a first point action when he / she takes ownership of their new steed. 

Edited February 18, 2024 by RobertWhitehead
Sommer

[ChrisF]

Baie dankie Robert

 

 

What size woul you recommend ?  3mm?

 

Right at the bottom, or slightly to the back ?

[RobertWhitehead]

41 minutes ago, ChrisF said:

Baie dankie Robert

 

 

What size woul you recommend ?  3mm?

 

Right at the bottom, or slightly to the back ?

Plesier, my suggestion: right at the bottom and yes a 3 will suffice. Come to think of it wonder if a bigger hole would have a negative effect on the frame / BB. 

But I tend to remember the older entry level frames had that piece of plastic guide under the BB which used a 3-4mm screw to fasten. 

[madmarc]

1 hour ago, ChrisF said:

Baie dankie Robert

 

 

What size woul you recommend ?  3mm?

 

Right at the bottom, or slightly to the back ?

I drilled all my frames with a 4 mm hole must be ctr to make sure all the water drains properly - I also blow compressed air through the hole when i clean my bikes and when you install the BB give the internals a good coating of grease - I strip my BB every 6 months and clean it out. 

By the time people realize there is something wrong with their BB its too late4 and almost always because of moisture

[MrJacques]

A possible explanation for the right vs left. Maybe someone applied degreaser on the chain / cassette and that worked its way past the seals and into the bearings. Or they just did more thorough washings for that side.

I've also had a left / right bearing go bad while the other one was fine. I don't recall which side, but might have been in the freehub.

 

 

[Wyatt Earp]

On 5/23/2023 at 5:30 PM, MrJacques said:

 

The big lesson here, never trust the mechanic before, as in NEVER .