The toolbox thread

[patches]

How important is this ? can you get away with normal bits ?

I've seen a few youtube vid where they recommend getting impact bits, but then these are always from people using top of the line stuff, I'm on a non existent budget here.

 

It's extremely important that they're impact bits. As an impact driver's "chuck" cannot hold normal drill bits (without some form of adaptor, however a normal drill can hold impact driver bits (so they're multi-use).

 

The impact driver drill bits look like this.

 

 

This notched hex base allows them to click into place. Not a dissimilar system to SDS bits. All driving bits (philips, torx, hex etc) will have the same. Just make sure that the set you choose works for your particular driver. They are mostly universal, however I have got some Makita bits that won't hold in my AEG drivers (the notch is about 5mm higher up the shank).

 

As for quality, I only have experience with AEG and Ryobi bit sets. Both were about NZD30 for sets like these:

 

 

Nothing fancy but work well enough.

 

So I guess by a "decent set" I mean decent (bit not over the top) quality, but more the fact that a comprehensive set will make your life easier.

[patches]

I have a makita impact driver and try to stick to torx screws when using this - otherwise I use my only non makita tool, a 12v dewalt for other screws

 

A good impact driver is worth saving up for - also an important tip is to find a brand you like and stick to it so you can use the same chargers and batteries.  Many a friend has saved money on a great deal only to have a million chargers and no charged compatible battery when you need it

 

For me its makita as back up locally is good and they are robust

 

 

Amen!

 

When I started collecting power tools again (after moving to NZ) I found a good combo deal on a brushless AEG 18V hammer drill and 2 batteries (5Ah and 2.5Ah).I should have looked around more as this initial purchase (particularly the 2 batteries) started me down the path of a specific brand.

 

Whilst I have been very happy with the AEG stuff, there are some tools that Makita does which AEG doesn't (like track saws), and I find myself hesitant to invest in another battery platform.

 

I did end up with Ryobi batteries from my lawn mower, weed eater and hedge trimmer (I was too cheapskate to spring for the AEG garden tools), so I do have a bit of flexibility. This enabled me to buy an 18Ga Ryobi nail gun (the AEG/Ridgid verson is only available i the US),

 

I have also got an AEG-Makita battery adaptor although I am yet t try it (all my Makita tools are corded).

 

But yeah find a battery platform and try stick to that one. And if I could do it over again I'd probably go Makita, due to the wide range of tools that are reasonably priced considering the quality.

[Baron]

I have built this prototype work stand to repair and service mountain bikes.

 I can strip the whole bike to only the frame, when the bike is on the stand, the handlebars can be supported when removing the fork, the fork can be supported when removing the handlebars with the stem to remove the fork. Pedals left or right side can be locked to remove the pedals or to lock the crank arm to toque Sram crank arm bolt. The Bike do not hang on the seat post or swivel around while working on the bike, no clamping to carbon top tube, bike is secure and sturdy, can apply the necessary force to remove screw in BB while bike is on the stand. The stand use two types of base supports for different types of frames, but the base support can be change in a few seconds. The attachment to support the bars, fork and lock pedals is quick to fit or remove and can be adjust. The stand can be fold close or open a few seconds to store.

 

 

[Shebeen]

[BuffsVintageBikes]

I have built this prototype work stand to repair and service mountain bikes.

 I can strip the whole bike to only the frame, when the bike is on the stand, the handlebars can be supported when removing the fork, the fork can be supported when removing the handlebars with the stem to remove the fork. Pedals left or right side can be locked to remove the pedals or to lock the crank arm to toque Sram crank arm bolt. The Bike do not hang on the seat post or swivel around while working on the bike, no clamping to carbon top tube, bike is secure and sturdy, can apply the necessary force to remove screw in BB while bike is on the stand. The stand use two types of base supports for different types of frames, but the base support can be change in a few seconds. The attachment to support the bars, fork and lock pedals is quick to fit or remove and can be adjust. The stand can be fold close or open a few seconds to store.

 

Very neat & clever design    The only downside I can see are those support legs, I'd be tripping over them all evening

[ChrisF]

Very neat & clever design The only downside I can see are those support legs, I'd be tripping over them all evening

Even those three.legged traditional stands .... I have properly hurt my feet on these.

[Mars1967]

I have built this prototype work stand to repair and service mountain bikes.

 I can strip the whole bike to only the frame, when the bike is on the stand, the handlebars can be supported when removing the fork, the fork can be supported when removing the handlebars with the stem to remove the fork. Pedals left or right side can be locked to remove the pedals or to lock the crank arm to toque Sram crank arm bolt. The Bike do not hang on the seat post or swivel around while working on the bike, no clamping to carbon top tube, bike is secure and sturdy, can apply the necessary force to remove screw in BB while bike is on the stand. The stand use two types of base supports for different types of frames, but the base support can be change in a few seconds. The attachment to support the bars, fork and lock pedals is quick to fit or remove and can be adjust. The stand can be fold close or open a few seconds to store.

Very nicely done. It is clear that some thinking went into the design and fabrication.

[BigDL]

I have a makita impact driver and try to stick to torx screws when using this - otherwise I use my only non makita tool, a 12v dewalt for other screws

 

A good impact driver is worth saving up for - also an important tip is to find a brand you like and stick to it so you can use the same chargers and batteries. Many a friend has saved money on a great deal only to have a million chargers and no charged compatible battery when you need it

 

For me its makita as back up locally is good and they are robust

So I’ve bought a Dewalt 18V impact driver and a drill combo set. This thread has inspired me to look for quality bits, not just the stuff rusting in my old tool box. Are Dewalt bits ok? Saw a nice impact driver bit set.

[Craai]

Some pics of my trolley that follows me around my bike.

 

Hammers, for when that f-ing BB won’t go in, pedal won’t come off, or a wheel needs trueing... Edited February 12, 2021 by Craai

[Baron]

I am going to change te support legs to a flat 6mm steel base plate design that have a slightly v bend in centre to add stiffness and the sides of the support base will then be only 6mm high from the floor. Will all so chamfer the edge so the tripping will then not be an issue.

[ChrisF]

I am going to change te support legs to a flat 6mm steel base plate design that have a slightly v bend in centre to add stiffness and the sides of the support base will then be only 6mm high from the floor. Will all so chamfer the edge so the tripping will then not be an issue.

Thinking wayyyy out the box.

 

You seen those parking bollards that insert into a pipe concreted into the ground ....

 

 

Would be super cool to have a single foot section which goes into a receptical in the floor ....

 

 

Rigid when you want

 

Could add a rotation amd lock function, if this of use to you ....

 

Remove and pack away when done working on the bikes.

[Baron]

Thinking wayyyy out the box.

 

You seen those parking bollards that insert into a pipe concreted into the ground ....

 

 

Would be super cool to have a single foot section which goes into a receptical in the floor ....

 

 

Rigid when you want

 

Could add a rotation amd lock function, if this of use to you ....

 

Remove and pack away when done working on the bikes.

Thank you for the advice, I like the idea of the pipe concrete in to to floor and then a single support in the centre that fit in to the pipe. It stand permanent at same place, but I will still be able to move it out of way if necessary. 

[ChrisF]

Thank you for the advice, I like the idea of the pipe concrete in to to floor and then a single support in the centre that fit in to the pipe. It stand permanent at same place, but I will still be able to move it out of way if necessary.

50mm stand pipe ...

 

Bend a C-channel out of 3mm steel, welded horizontally to the pipe, with the C open to the top ... fixing points at either end for the bike ... and now you even have a "rack" for a few tools....

 

 

Now raak ek lus vir DIY ...

[Eddy Gordo]

Thinking wayyyy out the box.

 

You seen those parking bollards that insert into a pipe concreted into the ground ....

 

 

Would be super cool to have a single foot section which goes into a receptical in the floor ....

 

 

Rigid when you want

 

Could add a rotation amd lock function, if this of use to you ....

 

Remove and pack away when done working on the bikes.

 

Some of those rotating washing lines are like that. That is, you insert the washing line assembly into a pipe in the ground.

[ChrisF]

Some of those rotating washing lines are like that. That is, you insert the washing line assembly into a pipe in the ground.

Jip, same concept.

 

 

A pin in the base could stop the spinning though ...

[Baron]

50mm stand pipe ...

 

Bend a C-channel out of 3mm steel, welded horizontally to the pipe, with the C open to the top ... fixing points at either end for the bike ... and now you even have a "rack" for a few tools....

 

 

Now raak ek lus vir DIY ...

 

With a single support leg, with the rotation option, I can also add a tilt option and height adjustment option with  adding the tool racks as ChrisF suggest will make it the ultimate work stand.