Hypothetical dream build (mamil style)

[stefmeister]

and then I clinked on the link and saw the word enduro..........nooooooo

 

https://www.ohlins.c...-air-universal/

 

Looks like you can shorten the stroke of the ohlins to 51 mm that will give you 116 mm travel.

[PhilipV]

This is my understanding too but the Ohlins is tuned to match an Ohlins 36 140

 

I am running a fox 34 120 and even the chaps there said a fox 120 front and rear will give the bike nice balance - they just don't use fox due to service issues there

 

So what to do?

No the shock tune has nothing to do with the fork.

 

The shock tune is matched to the frame.

As the wheel moves into its travel,bit pushes a linkage that pushes the shock in. There is a leverage ratio involved (shock moves 57mm to give 120mm of wheel travel.)

Now the nerds at Unno uses this linkage to manipulate the leverage to change throughout the wheel travel to give the bike a certain character. And then the nerds at Ohlins work their magic to complete the package.

This is why no two brands feel the same at the same given travel. Some feel bottomless, while others pedal better.

 

So if you sell the Ohlins as it lands, and buy a Fox, if the Fox's tune isn't matched to the frame, it might feel pretty crap.

So if you plan to go Fox, ask the Spaniards to send you the shock tune needed, and then send this info to the local supplier and ask them to change it so long (they can change it here) or you send it to Stoke Suspension in Cape Town or Robbie's Performance Centre in PE to manipulate the shock tune to get it right for the frame.

 

Ideally you want the frame to land with a shock that has the correct tune, whether it is a Fox or an Ohlins. It just saves you time and hassle.

 

 

The fact that you are planning to ride it with a 120mm 34 instead of the longer 36 means it will be less like a school bus plowing through the chunder, and more playful.

 

Which i think is exactly what you need. 120mm front and back will allow you to make a couple of mistakes, and reward you for improving your riding.

Edited August 19, 2020 by PhilipV

[DJuice]

way over my head - so you suggest just leaving this heavier non matching designed for the bike shock?  Seems very overkill for my kind of riding but I don't want to go this far and then ruin the bike

The Ohlins match the black and gold, but that knob...

In my dreams I am this wizard shock tuner, in reality to scared to brake it.

 

Can I recommend you call on the services of Droo to tune you.

[Wayne pudding Mol]

No the shock tune has nothing to do with the fork.

 

The shock tune is matched to the frame.

As the wheel moves into its travel,bit pushes a linkage that pushes the shock in. There is a leverage ratio involved (shock moves 57mm to give 120mm of wheel travel.)

Now the nerds at Unno uses this linkage to manipulate the leverage to change throughout the wheel travel to give the bike a certain character. And then the nerds at Ohlins work their magic to complete the package.

This is why no two brands feel the same at the same given travel. Some feel bottomless, while others pedal better.

 

So if you sell the Ohlins as it lands, and buy a Fox, if the Fox's tune isn't matched to the frame, it might feel pretty crap.

So if you plan to go Fox, ask the Spaniards to send you the shock tune needed, and then send this info to the local supplier and ask them to change it so long (they can change it here) or you send it to Stoke Suspension in Cape Town or Robbie's Performance Centre in PE to manipulate the shock tune to get it right for the frame.

 

Ideally you want the frame to land with a shock that has the correct tune, whether it is a Fox or an Ohlins. It just saves you time and hassle.

 

 

The fact that you are planning to ride it with a 120mm 34 instead of the longer 36 means it will be less like a school bus plowing through the chunder, and more playful.

 

Which i think is exactly what you need. 120mm front and back will allow you to make a couple of mistakes, and reward you for improving your riding.

And this is why I love the hub

 

I understand now and will get in touch with Droo or Robbies.  I'm dead centre although PE probably more convenient 

[Showtime]

Like you don't have enough opinions already 

 

At the price you have to assume that the folks at Unno know what they are doing. 

 

So ride the bike with 130 at the back and 140 up front like they designed it. If it feels slow and cumbersome with that travel then where does the Unno magic sauce come in?  

 

If you run 120mm you will always be wondering what it would feel like with the full travel.

 

130mm is very suitable for Garden Route Trail Park.

 

EDIT. I see you are quite sure of the travel you want. Would have been a nice exercise to test the bike with 130/140 and 120/120 though.

Edited August 19, 2020 by Showtime

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

And this is why I love the hub

 

I understand now and will get in touch with Droo or Robbies.  I'm dead centre although PE probably more convenient 

On the plus side, if it lands here with the Ohlins you're in luck, 'cos 200x57 is one of the most popular shock sizes on the market. You should find a buyer with little to no hassle at all. 

[Danger Dassie]

Yes

Edited August 19, 2020 by danger dassie

[Wayne pudding Mol]

Like you don't have enough opinions already 

 

At the price you have to assume that the folks at Unno know what they are doing. 

 

So ride the bike with 130 at the back and 140 up front like they designed it. If it feels slow and cumbersome with that travel then where does the Unno magic sauce come in?  

 

If you run 120mm you will always be wondering what it would feel like with the full travel.

 

130mm is very suitable for Garden Route Trail Park.

 

EDIT. I see you are quite sure of the travel you want. Would have been a nice exercise to test the bike with 130/140 and 120/120 though.

When I first chatted to Unno I wanted the Horn and they suggested given that I loved my Pyga stage, the Dash would be more suited.  They came up with the 120/120 idea because I already had the 120 fork it must be said.  Then miscommunication ensued because I thought they would sort out the rear for me.

 

As I have laready paid I'm hoping they can sort it out but clearly they have an issue with Fox

[Matchstix]

way over my head - so you suggest just leaving this heavier non matching designed for the bike shock? Seems very overkill for my kind of riding but I don't want to go this far and then ruin the bike

I would leave it. The performance will make up for the difference in weight

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

When I first chatted to Unno I wanted the Horn and they suggested given that I loved my Pyga stage, the Dash would be more suited.  They came up with the 120/120 idea because I already had the 120 fork it must be said.  Then miscommunication ensued because I thought they would sort out the rear for me.

 

As I have laready paid I'm hoping they can sort it out but clearly they have an issue with Fox

They probably went with Ohlins due to the low frame numbers, and FOX not willing to get a custom tune for just however many frames a year, or the Fox didn't suit their requirements

 

The Ohlins is an excellent shock. Don't worry about the "enduro" tag, that just means it has a higher volume of oil to keep the shock cooler during operation. 

 

Let them sort out the rear for you, they designed it so they should know what's best (and knowing who it is in charge of it, he's definitely the person to call on that. Cesar Rojo is a suspension wizard. Trust his process. If you must, just remove the decals...

[Wayne pudding Mol]

They probably went with Ohlins due to the low frame numbers, and FOX not willing to get a custom tune for just however many frames a year, or the Fox didn't suit their requirements

 

The Ohlins is an excellent shock. Don't worry about the "enduro" tag, that just means it has a higher volume of oil to keep the shock cooler during operation. 

 

Let them sort out the rear for you, they designed it so they should know what's best (and knowing who it is in charge of it, he's definitely the person to call on that. Cesar Rojo is a suspension wizard. Trust his process. If you must, just remove the decals...

so I am not going to be climbing up a hill bouncing away?  This is definitely way to much suspension for me

 

I guess best bet is to just try it, after all it comes with the frame 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

so I am not going to be climbing up a hill bouncing away? This is definitely way to much suspension for me

 

I guess best bet is to just try it, after all it comes with the frame

No. Suspension designs have come very very far, and Cesar knows what he's doing.

 

More twiddly bits just mean you can tune it more finely. Ask him what settings he'd recommend for your applications. I'm sure he'll be more than happy to oblige.

[PhilipV]

And this is why I love the hub

 

I understand now and will get in touch with Droo or Robbies. I'm dead centre although PE probably more convenient

We're all knee-deep emotionally invested with this along with you.

 

AFAIK Robbie is the local supplier/service agent for Ohlins, so I would go there.

 

Another alternative would be to get it with the Ohlins, ride it properly for a while, and then if you think it is too wallowy, enduro-y or whatever, to chat to Robbie about tuning the shim stack in the Ohlins. (The shim stack is where a lot of the magic happens)

 

Then you and Robbie can custom tune it to be more of what you want (firmer, better support, more small bump compliance or more plushness etc....)

 

I'm going out on a limb here, but I think the Ohlins will lend itself better to being adjusted to suit you and your bike better even before fiddling with the shim stack.

[Wayne pudding Mol]

This is a rare sensible advice thread - ok so the plan is to stick with the Ohlins and if I feel I want to start doing crossups and shouting "rad", reign in the travel on the Ohlins and fine tune it for my more moderate "style"

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

This is a rare sensible advice thread - ok so the plan is to stick with the Ohlins and if I feel I want to start doing crossups and shouting "rad", reign in the travel on the Ohlins and fine tune it for my more moderate "style"

Actually... My suggestion is to ask Unno if they can set the shocks compression and rebound for you based on their knowledge and your conversation with them, and ask what pressure to run so you can pump it up when it gets here. Set up out of the box.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

We're all knee-deep emotionally invested with this along with you.

 

AFAIK Robbie is the local supplier/service agent for Ohlins, so I would go there.

 

Another alternative would be to get it with the Ohlins, ride it properly for a while, and then if you think it is too wallowy, enduro-y or whatever, to chat to Robbie about tuning the shim stack in the Ohlins. (The shim stack is where a lot of the magic happens)

 

Then you and Robbie can custom tune it to be more of what you want (firmer, better support, more small bump compliance or more plushness etc....)

 

I'm going out on a limb here, but I think the Ohlins will lend itself better to being adjusted to suit you and your bike better even before fiddling with the shim stack.

Yeah, Robbie is a champ.