Norco fluid fs3 2020 or Spez Stumpjumper ST 2019

[thebob]

There will always be a bit of bobbing on a dual suss. It is not the root of all evil that some make it out to be. If the shock pressure and rebound are well setup it won't even be noticeable

[Jehosefat]

Personally I don't even use the lockouts on tar except when I'm climbing out of the saddle. I find the "bounciness" from the tyre with the shock locked out to be disconcerting. Much more comfortable with the shock open (well technically in the middle setting. "Traction" mode they call it I think).

 

I know that the MTB doesn't belong on the road but I've been riding it there a lot because that way my girlfriend and I ride at around the same speed for the same level of effort.

[Dexter-morgan]

I have removed the lock-outs on my Scott, Bike looks much better with less cables, probably dropped half a kilo with all those cables.

[MajG]

Any efficiency you lose due to bobbing will only make you stronger in the long run [emoji28]

 

This is true - painfully so 

[MajG]

There will always be a bit of bobbing on a dual suss. It is not the root of all evil that some make it out to be. If the shock pressure and rebound are well setup it won't even be noticeable

 

so this being my first dual sus bike and getting the bike delivered i miss out on the free suspension dial in by them

 

however youtube will be my instructor

[DR ◣◢]

so this being my first dual sus bike and getting the bike delivered i miss out on the free suspension dial in by them

 

however youtube will be my instructor

 

It's not the most difficult thing to setup sag. Rule of thumb is 25% to 30%.

 

Rebound and compression is an ongoing experiment for me. Still battling between HSC and LSC. Rebound I normally open all the way up and dial it back about 30% to start with. 

 

Get a shock pump if the bike doesn't come with one. You use it more than you think in the beginning. 

Edited September 18, 2020 by DR ◣◢

[MajG]

It's not the most difficult thing to setup sag. Rule of thumb is 25% to 30%.

 

Rebound and compression is an ongoing experiment for me. Still battling between HSC and LSC. Rebound I normally open all the way up and dial it back about 30% to start with. 

 

Get a shock pump if the bike doesn't come with one. You use it more than you think in the beginning. 

Thanks for this, will ask if shock pump is included else I will purchase.

Are all shock pumps generally accurate or certain brand better.

 

Just watched a youtube tutorial on this 25% - 30% sag - me being newby to bikes in general maybe thinking lbs visit will be safer bet - and watch them do it

[boxerulez]

Thanks for this, will ask if shock pump is included else I will purchase.

Are all shock pumps generally accurate or certain brand better.

 

Just watched a youtube tutorial on this 25% - 30% sag - me being newby to bikes in general maybe thinking lbs visit will be safer bet - and watch them do it

Get the rockshox app and select your height weight and suspensions there.

 

Itll give you a baseline to start from.

 

The Norcos do not come with pumps.

 

Order one this weekend so it arrives with the bike by wednesday.

 

 

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.SRAM.TrailheadTuningApp

Edited September 18, 2020 by boxerulez

[MajG]

Get the rockshox app and select your height weight and suspensions there.

 

Itll give you a baseline to start from.

 

The Norcos do not come with pumps.

 

Order one this weekend so it arrives with the bike by wednesday.

 

 

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.SRAM.TrailheadTuningApp

ok thanks for headsup - lesson learnt, i am going to lbs store to buy rather instead of checking availability on websites etc

 

will get the app too, thats so cool

[Hairy]

It's not the most difficult thing to setup sag. Rule of thumb is 25% to 30%.

 

Rebound and compression is an ongoing experiment for me. Still battling between HSC and LSC. Rebound I normally open all the way up and dial it back about 30% to start with. 

 

Get a shock pump if the bike doesn't come with one. You use it more than you think in the beginning. 

 

 

Thanks for this, will ask if shock pump is included else I will purchase.

Are all shock pumps generally accurate or certain brand better.

 

Just watched a youtube tutorial on this 25% - 30% sag - me being newby to bikes in general maybe thinking lbs visit will be safer bet - and watch them do it

Tip of the day

 

Take a flexible ruler and cut it down the length as narrow as possible so that you can still read the numbers, and then cut it a bit longer than the max travel of your bike ... if you have a 120mm travel bike, chop it around the 150mm mark. Make a small hole on the end and run some thin string or fishing line through the hole, tie knot and then with enough length on the string, tie it to your shock pump.

 

You now have a ruler on hand at all times to measure your sag when using the pump.

 

You can also do the math up front and mark off the sag you are wanting on the ruler and then it makes life easier when doing your setup.

[Eddy Gordo]

Tip of the day

 

Take a flexible ruler and cut it down the length as narrow as possible so that you can still read the numbers, and then cut it a bit longer than the max travel of your bike ... if you have a 120mm travel bike, chop it around the 150mm mark. Make a small hole on the end and run some thin string or fishing line through the hole, tie knot and then with enough length on the string, tie it to your shock pump.

 

You now have a ruler on hand at all times to measure your sag when using the pump.

 

You can also do the math up front and mark off the sag you are wanting on the ruler and then it makes life easier when doing your setup.

Is there a video tutorial with that? I possibly have some tweaks

[ChrisF]

I have removed the lock-outs on my Scott, Bike looks much better with less cables, probably dropped half a kilo with all those cables.

 

And that was the highlight of the Scott for me ... I used that twin lockout a LOT.

 

Tar sections to the trails it was locked out.

 

Jeep tracks, and climbing it was in the mid setting.

 

And obviously fully open when going downhill.

 

 

 

But I do agree with the general idea ... This bike was designed without the lockout, so it really should work well enough without it.

[Hairy]

Is there a video tutorial with that? I possibly have some tweaks

I will snap a pic tomorrow

[MajG]

Tip of the day

 

Take a flexible ruler and cut it down the length as narrow as possible so that you can still read the numbers, and then cut it a bit longer than the max travel of your bike ... if you have a 120mm travel bike, chop it around the 150mm mark. Make a small hole on the end and run some thin string or fishing line through the hole, tie knot and then with enough length on the string, tie it to your shock pump.

You now have a ruler on hand at all times to measure your sag when using the pump.

 

You can also do the math up front and mark off the sag you are wanting on the ruler and then it makes life easier when doing your setup.

I am trying to picture this but its sounds very simplistic, so look forward for your pic tomorrow.

 

Bought a shock pump off another hubber so when bikes arrives iv got te tools to experiment.

[MajG]

And that was the highlight of the Scott for me ... I used that twin lockout a LOT.

 

Tar sections to the trails it was locked out.

 

Jeep tracks, and climbing it was in the mid setting.

 

And obviously fully open when going downhill.

 

 

 

But I do agree with the general idea ... This bike was designed without the lockout, so it really should work well enough without it.

Assuming all bikes suspensions are tuned well, then lockouts basically used predominantly for road use on way to the trails

[Chadvdw67]

Tip of the day

 

Take a flexible ruler and cut it down the length as narrow as possible so that you can still read the numbers, and then cut it a bit longer than the max travel of your bike ... if you have a 120mm travel bike, chop it around the 150mm mark. Make a small hole on the end and run some thin string or fishing line through the hole, tie knot and then with enough length on the string, tie it to your shock pump.

 

You now have a ruler on hand at all times to measure your sag when using the pump.

 

You can also do the math up front and mark off the sag you are wanting on the ruler and then it makes life easier when doing your setup.

Clever idea, if you run FOX, DVO, Suntour etc

 

But Rockshox, as is on the OP bike, have sag % indicators on them, makes life SO much easier