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Have a look at the winning time by the pros. This is a good indication of how tough the route is.
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I did the old route in 2011. Almost had me in tearsā¦ All other routes of similar distance is ātameā compared to the monster.
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I have skipped it the last 3 years, it is sad that the numbers are so down. Used to be well supported. Wonder why though, route getting too easy or too hard? š¬
The magalies monster is known for being a tough race. (Now a bit easier compared to the route of 2011 round). Ā It even says so in the race brief/description. The terrain is what makes it the monster, you will always suffer on this 65km loop. Sounds like another edition where it lived ip to its reputation.Ā
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I could not ride it this year, so cannot comment on the food stalls though. Sorry if the food was not on par, that should not be the case.
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As mentioned, the monster is not supposed to be a manicured mtb trial. It is tough. Supposed to be tough. Be proud of yourself if you finished it.
So I managed to fix a slipping seatpost (aluminium post in carbon frame).
Tried carbon friction paste, no success using the indicated torque values on the clampā¦
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Then tried the old chalk trick. Works a charm! Basically applied chalk on the clamp area. No slippage.
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I am however not sure what the long term effect can be on the alu/carbon?Ā
Thread revive. Where can one do lactate threshold testing in jhb in 2023?
I have ditched the wax pot from takealot. Took 60min to melt the wax. I took out the inner of that pot and just use it in a double boiler fashion now. (Submerged in bigger pot with boiling water). Melts the wax in 6 minutes.
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I must say the drivetrain feels super smooth the first 40km. Still trying to figure out exactly when to re wax. On the trainer it sounds dry, but not squeeking dry after about 150km.Ā
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MTB is still quiet after about 90km, will push it further.
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When do you guys re wax the chain?
1 hour ago, craiganavi said:So after many happy Km's on my Tubeless GP 5000 TL tyres with Orange Seal Regular (Approximately cleaned out and topped up 2months ago). My own fault, I rode over a patch of glass not watching the road. Big puncture in my rear and most of the sealant shot out and unfortunately would not seal. My previous punctures the sealant did the trick. Obviously I do not carry tubes with me anymore so I was done for the morning.
I have now come across 'Dynaplug' and other brands for road bike tyres. Has anyone had any experience with these or similar product for road tyres?Ā
Is it safe to ride with a plug on a road tyre? As the tyre is narrow and high pressure? Any advice is appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
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I had a piece of glass cut my rear tire during maluti. Also did not want to seal properly. Even with a normal āwormā plug it did not want to keep pressure, but got me home.
At home I took off the tire, removed the plug and cleaned the inside. Sanded the inside and applied a norma tube patch inside the tire. Works a charm. Holding pressure, no issues.Ā
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also applied some rubber shoe glue to the outside of the cut.
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I think applying a patch on the inside of the tire is the best way forwardšš»
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Those are wild numbers for an amateur. Cycling really has become a sciencešš»
My corsa 2 also went see through at the butt crack after about a years use. Corsa 1 is faded after 5 years, but at least not see through.
I think it is time to save up and try an assos
If you cannot re program the shifters to allow the shifting to the smaller cogs at the back, maybe install a larger small blade at the front?
you will sacrifice your current granny gear though.
Do you specifically want to go with training wheels? Both our kids learnt riding using a balance bike and then moved to bicycles. Never used training wheels.
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maybe remove the crankset and chain and use a small mtb as a balance bike to start with? Ā Once your friend is comfortable with balancing, put the cranks and chain back.
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27 minutes ago, dasilvarsa said:If You Let the Wax set a bit before removing the Chain from the pot it will last longer.
The secret is to fill the space Inside the rollers (D) with the wax ,oil,ptfe mixture and to let it set in there.
If the Chain is removed too early the Mix will leak out of the Rollers.
Excess Wax on the Outside will flake off and blow away.
Check it after 100km
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Thanks, I will play around with when to take the chain out. Tried to wait for the wax to get that milky layer while cooling before taking out the chain. Waiting too long before taking the chain out (while wax is cooling) will result in having too much wax residue going to waste.Ā
1 hour ago, cadenceblur said:How much did you pay for the powder?
I bought the kit from fellow hubber @Nico van Loggerenberg Contains 500g wax and 50g ptfe powder. Paid R420
Small wax pot took about an hour to melt all the wax. Then mixed in the ptfe powder and submerged the chain. Left the chain in there for about 30min, swishing regularly.
left it a bit to cool and then took out the chain. Excess dripped of and re fitted to bike.
Now to test how many km it takes before re waxing is required
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So it beginsā¦
For internal routing, I use one of those thin cable sleeves over the old cable through the frame. Then pull out the old cable, whilst the sleeve stays in place. Then just push the new cable through the sleeve.Ā
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However, this only works if there is a cable already installed. For first time cable installation, vacuum cleaner and floss it isā¦
Do most pros not ride a 38t?
According to bikeradar, the frame can only take a 36t front chainring. Surely this cannot be large enough for the likes of Beers?
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4 minutes ago, Headshot said:What's the Trek - 80mm? When a softer tyre makes a noticeable difference to how the back end of a bike feels I suspect that 80mm is more than enough for most XCO and even marathon duties. BTW, "full house" is at least 160mm at each end in my book šĀ
Trek is 60mm at the back. I do believe the Supercaliber is for a specific market/racer. Like you mentioned it is quite popular among the XC and marathon racers.Ā
3 minutes ago, DieselnDust said:I don;t bother because the hot waxing will melt the stuff thats already in there. I just give the chain a swirl in the pot to shae the dirt and remove it. Let the dirt settle and then dunk in the bath again. Hence I like to have a sieve above the base of the bath so that dirt can settle below that.
That first clean is just to get the packing grease out but I'm not too fussy about that either because that grease is almost impossible to remove entirely despite the efforts of many internet experts. It just adds to dirty chemical I have to dispose of and I try to operate as efficiently and cleanly as I can
Thank you. I will be waxing my used chain I have been lubing with Smoove. Whats the best way to clean/prep for hot waxing?
10 minutes ago, DieselnDust said:30% wax
40%oil
30% Xylene
The Xylene is horrible to work with so do it outside and wear a breather. You may have to tweak the mix a bit depending on the oil used. I use a pharma grade hydraulic oil ISO 46
Do you have to full clean the chain with solvents again before hot waxing after using this top up?
Training after Coronavirus
in Training, Health & Nutrition
Posted
I have been of the bike for almost 3 weeks. Started of as a chest infection and just will not clear. Been through antibiotics, cortisone and tamiflu. Now just dosing with vitC to the max. So frustrating.
Tried a zone 2 ride the weekend, hr ok, but muscles sore afterwards. Hopefully the vitamins help.