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Why would you want to spend money on a freehub for SRAM or Shimano
SRAM 10-50: 10-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36-42-50SRAM 10-52: 10-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36-42-52Shimano 10-51: 10-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-33-39-45-51Sunrace 11-51: 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-33-39-45-51Gararuk 11-52: 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-37-44-52
Because Sunrace is very heavy, get a Garbaruk if you have money to blow.
I swopped a tire for a friend and found Alien breeding inside...it weights 1.35kg...originally 600g.
Straight to the dumpster
Bliksem, I will get nightmares from that ! One advantage is "advanced" puncture protection ... 
Hey Hubbers - Happy hump day!
In this post aimed at educating the DT community we discuss often perplexing names or abbreviations used by DT Swiss that are [mostly] unique to DT...
Spline: Refers to the hub/spoke interface being straightpull (Straight Pull Line)
Classic: Refers to the hub/spoke interface being J-bend
Rotor: Refers to the freehub body
DICUT: Refers to the hub/spoke interface being Diagonally Cut that uses proprietary T-head spokes
RWS: Stands for Ratcheting Wheel Skewer (thru axles and skewers with trademark adjustable lever)
Hybrid: Is the product range primarily used for E-bikes
PHR: "Pro Head Reinforcement" is the technology used in conjunction with certain nipples with the same abbreviation.
Squorx: DT's top of the range rear drive nipples that is a blend between Double Square and Torx designs
Prolock: The thread lock/spoke prep pre impregnated into nipples that carry the name "Prolock" or the abbreviation "PL" in their name
Thanks Marc, that cleared a few things up for me.
Ok, 8-odd minutes with a power washer took 90% of what I needed gone, away!
The bit it did not remove was the depression where the material - at its thickest - Latin a ‘puddle’ for sometime, the pressure washer did not remove that 1/16th of the tire, not bad!
I am soaking that area with a bit of clean green after reading up on it, will report back on the last 1/16th,and obviously flush and inspect.
Power washer did better than I expected, in around 5% (?) of the time it would take to pick away at it; I tried the rough sponge/rough cloth previously, without much/any success.
Will give that a go next time.
Agree with the others. I went trough this a few weeks ago, elbo-grease and a **** load of patience is the only way.
It help to open it up leave in the sun to dry (but not too much) and then start rubbing and rubbing and rubbing ...
My previous combo was plenty grippy and still pretty fast. Maxxis aggresso front and back. 2.5 up front and 2.25 rear. EXO casing as a compromise between weight and confidence over sharp rocks.
Maxxis Agressor, 29x2.3, 60TPI, EXO/TR is 900g each. A bit heavy for my liking.
Louis Meintjies did manage to finish, 21min down in 78th place
Sent you a DM with this list and recommendations
Cheers!
Thanks for this initiative, at least now I have "somewhere" to go if I have a DT Swiss related issue. I have 350 straight-pull center lock hubs on my bike, very good quality, like them a lot.
2
This counts as a spare part Theog, which is why you will only find it available through purchase from a registered dealer.
Happy to reach out to any of the dealers near you and let them know your desire to purchase and they can let you know their best price. Understand I won't be able to offer a price here as each store will determine their final price based on various factors.
Thanks, can you rather just give me a list of dealers near me and I will take it up with them?
Mark, I see "DT SWISS Shimano 12spd Freehub For Star Ratchet Hubs (Microspline)" is in stock on the dealer site, but not even an option on the retail website.
Where (close to Alberton) can I get hold of one at what price?
2
...
And that is without the luxury of a computer based stock system, that is off his own experience.
But hey, all shops are crap....
Not all, just a lot of them ... 
. Unfortunately, in my immediate vicinity, options are very limited.
I actually thought GetStoked had an online store direct to the public?
Look, I get what you are saying, but you don't buy tools from Bosch or VW cars from VW. You buy them from a dealer, which is just a shop.
It sucks, but it is the nature of consumerism. Everyone needs their pound of flesh
Yes they do, but the offerings are limited compared to the "dealer site" and very expensive.
All I'm saying is charge a reasonable amount and I might support the LBS. In most cases I can import parts for the same or cheaper (including shipping & duty) than buying locally.
Same goes for "labor", just be reasonable with what you charge and you will be supported, simple as that.
It is really nonsense that importers only supply bike shops.
More than once have I needed something, bike shop could not assist as they don’t know what I needed or is just not technical inclined
I did my research down to the part number off what I needed and now I must ask a LBS to order it on my behalf while they add in 20-50%.
For doing WHAT....sending an email?
You say riders should take their bike to LBS, while I can tell you many stories of various bike shops either ripping people or of shoddy workmanship. Like not torquing the RD to spec and it floating cause bad gear change. This person took the bike back 3 times. Every time lbs fiddled with barrel adjuster.
The fact that someone needs to pay a markup to a bike shop for a tool is nonsense.
If the guy wants to work on his bike, why do you assume he is not maybe MORE than capable?
Maybe the dude that was asking about the tool is someone that replaces bearings on equipment that has far smaller tolerances than a hub bearing, or cost 10x what a bike cost. Maybe his daily job is working on turbines?
But he must take his bike to a LBS? Really irritates me.
I fully agree. You can not tell anyone that they should not work on their own bike! Yes sure the majority out there don't know the difference between dinsdag and dingaansdag on a bike, but there are a lot of us that do. As a qualified experienced mechanical engineer, there is very little any guy at a LBS can tell me that I don't already know.
To a large extend the prices being charged are plain ridiculous. There is very little on a bike that I cant or wont do myself, so yes I fully agree with Quagga, a LBS will not see me unless I have no choice.
3
In Pheonix's defence:
PS. Not sure that it is correct, but this is the information that is out there.
Wow, I didn't expect that many viewers, guess 3 weeks is a long time and it all add up ...
Think she got confused between the Green jersey competition and the GC competition and just mangled everyhting into each other.
Look, if someone asked me live on-air about the rules of Kabaddi I would most likely make an even bigger stuff-up of the explanation.
Still funny.
Sure, I would excuse someone if they don't know Kabaddi though, but pro-cycling, Tour de France, on National television, sorry there is no excuse for that, simply pathetic.
Speechless [emoji1750]
How the winner is calculated.
Mount is stages, flat surface stages and narrow stages.
https://twitter.com/grootlem/status/1307909466042576896?s=21
Yip, no other words for it than speechless! Surely they not from planet Earth ...
Meter or so seems reasonable. Try riding on the road sometime.
Also, if this thread has taught me anything, it is that you need to tell us what colour the motorbike rider was for your post to count.
The C was white, so does my post count now ... 
PS, I stay away from the road as far as physically possible, this being one of the reasons, besides MTB is so much more fun.
Micro spline or Xd drive
in Technical Q&A
Posted · Edited by Theog
I did a fear bit of reading on this, what stick out is that XD was a "quick" solution by Sram while Shimano took their time with Micro Spline to design something (like the HG driver) that would be a preferred choice in future.
Personally I will stick to Shimano and pair it with a Garbaruk cassette, light and durable and a bit cheaper compared to XT/XTR and I would say on par with XTR. I have a 11sp Garbaruk at the moment, simply a work of art.