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Li Mu Bai

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Everything posted by Li Mu Bai

  1. People do need hero's for all sorts of reasons, inspiration, roll models, etc. He lied and decieved for so long, thats whats pissed most off. All this negative publicity wont stop people who already cycle from continuing, but may affect newbies and youngsters from making a career of it.
  2. Even when he falls on his head he doesnt slow down.
  3. There is a group of 6 of us, some dropping down from VC and D, to E to ride together and have fun, as fast as we can, wearing red and black. You are welcome to hop on the bus and hook it with us.
  4. Bobby Julich admitted he doped and has left Sky.
  5. Li Mu Bai

    L'Eroica

    Gary Fischer...
  6. Li Mu Bai

    2012 94.7

    lol, VC for me. worse getting old and slow...
  7. Ive found the Pedro's bottom bracket socket gives the best fit and works really well. No scuffing and tearing of the BB thread It also allows you to use a torque wrench to tighten your bb correctly. cheap too - couldn't find it in SA though, bought mine in the states. Park tool also makes one and so does X tools and Leyzene http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26744
  8. Sorry about your loss, but honestly this is South Africa! you're lucky you still have your bike and helmet...
  9. easiest way to keep an LSD ride honest is to ride with a few guys who are slightly weaker than you or less fit, and keep to their pace.
  10. cash.
  11. disappointing. He trained hard but doped harder it seems. Best athlete of our time - with dope, I don't think so. good that its come out, now we need better role models for youngsters getting into the sport
  12. where do you find batch info for the 2day race?
  13. Soooo disappointed, cant make it due to last minute kids stuff. If anyone wants to do the 70km race, R150, give me a buzz, 0828858416 or PM.
  14. "B" for me, going to have to work...
  15. 70km for me
  16. not 1 email yet, waiting in anticipation!
  17. as JB said, the rim tape had not properly bonded to the rim, prior to putting on the tire with sealent. The Notubes website has got a good video of how to do it all properly. In a nutshell: take the rim and run a piece of scotch brite pot scourer inside the rim over the spoke holes. this cleans the surface and roughens it very slightly. wipe out dust that forms from the scourer. Apply the sticky yellow rim tape, making sure you pull fairly hard to stretch it in place, finishing with a 12-15cm overlap. using a sharp scribe, punch a hole in the tape over the valve hole, and then remove the yellow tape from this hole using a small circular file, in a pushing down motion, not pulling up. pulling up lifts the tape and can split it. Fit your tire onto the rim, and install a tube. pump up the tube to 3.5bar and set it aside for 60mins or more. (this compresses the tape onto the rim properly so that it seals better.) remove the tube, install the tubeless valve, tighten it down properly. install the tire, clipping in the bead to one side, and 90% of the bead on the other, and add 80ml+ of sealant. fit the rest of the tire bead into the rim (tire levers may be required if the fit is tight) inflate the tire to 3.5 / 4bar. this may take some massaging of the tire to get the bead to 'clip in' if you are using a small compressor for a 29". you may need a large compressor eg at the local BP or engen if the 29" tire fit is loose. for a 26", a bomb usually works well followed by a hand pump to get to 4bar. Soapy water is sometimes applied to the bead outside edge to get the tire lubricated so that it can seat better, up to you. the soapy bubbles indicating leaks around the bead edge are more useful though in helping you seal the tire. The next stage varies, but merely spinning the tire is not good enough. I find the Joes No flats method works well, although its time consuming. hold the wheel just off horizontal with the valve at your chest and the furthest point of the wheel down in front of you. shake the tire forward and back in small movements for the count of 20 seconds. the sealent should be lying over the internal rim/bead junction and the shaking should agitate it into the joint between the two. rotate the wheel 10-20 degrees to the left and repeat the 20 second shake. continue for the whole wheel, then flip it over and repeat for the other side. once done, yours arms and shoulders should be feeling the workout, put the bottom edge of the wheel and tire into waterin the bath so that it is submerged, and any leaks in the sidewall or bead rim junction are revealed. (very little if using a UST tire) repeat the shake over the area that had bubbles escaping to seal it up. after 3-4 weeks add sealent to the tire, as the latex in the sealent will have bonded to the inside of the tire through use, or collected into those neat alien rubber balls inside the tire. ride and enjoy.
  18. nasty.
  19. what about matches...
  20. DONT USE A TORCH, jeez. And how can you take the clamp off first? you can loosen it yes. I had the same problem before. seatpost stuck fast. Called JB late on a sunday night for advice. He suggested I use boiling water from a kettle poured over the top of the frame where the seatpost protrudes. Twist and wiggle the seatpost using the saddle for leverage, untill it sticks fast again. repeat the process. it is slow and you will use many kettle fulls of hot water, but eventually the seatpost comes free, 1-2mm at a time. The carbon and the alum have different co-efficients of expansion. Took me over 4 hours but I got it out and didnt have to cut anything. Clean out the seat tube, removing any grease/wax left behind. DO NOT LUBRICATE YOUR SEATPOST/SEAT TUBE CONECTION WITH GREASE! it turns waxy after a while and then the seatpost gets stuck. Make a habit of removing your seatpost every once in a while to make sure the same doesnt happen again.
  21. I purchased some track hubs from Planet x, no problem, efficient service and postage.
  22. Contact Michael at 072 365 9767 michael@themassagespot.co.za www.themassagespot.co.za
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