Cruz Addict

sounds cool, some more details please, like when costs where to enter etc.

Different rotors of the same size will have almost no change to your breaking power. The stopping power comes from the breaks not the rotors, unless you move up a size as you then have more usable breaking surface. If they are new they may have some residue cleaning materials from the factory causing the pads not to grip properly. Try using a little acetone to rub the rotor where the pads connect, failing that t may be time for new pads.

SLX!!

my tip, don't do it, triathletes are maniacs . nice comp though. if only i punished my body that way i would enter

me and my mrs are doing our first as well, going to be an awesome experience :clap:

lol no worries, dont think i have been much help but you are welcome

100% but surely you dont want to be running old fluid through a new set of breaks anyway. i am no professional and am only talking from my experience but old breaks fluid should stay far away from new breaks. just my 2c. its not always necessary but as the breaks are what saves your life and stops you from becoming very well acquainted with the tree/ fence/ cow/ etc. ect. my 2c is any time the hoses are moved away from the place they call home they should be bled.

rather get new hose from your LBS and build up from the ground. i am sure you could use the old ones but for me if its a whole new system rather make sure its all new vs some old some new. the hydrolic hose isnt that expensive and you will have a complete set of spare breaks to sell or use when needed if you dont poach the hose.

i would say yes but you are going to have to use something more fierce than sand paper, especially if they are sinterd pads. but i am no expert.

so whats happening with the taxi?

of coarse you can, you just need to align the caliper more precisely. you may need to flip the bigger spacer over so as to stop the edge of the caliper from resting in the groove but its completely doable.

yeah there are 2 spacers in there, 1 is rather fat compared to its partner, try removing the smaller one and check that the disk does not touch anything and spins freely, if it does you are good, if it does and its rubbing you will need to find a spacer that is not as thick as the one you currently have but has enough to stop the disc binding on its outermost point. hope that makes sense?

Guessing here but thinking because they are weaker than the alternatives or they are stronger than and cause additional stress on the hub, on an AM wheel running 203mm rotors being used properly I assume the forces would cause huge stress on the bolts, pushing them to the limits of their capacity and possible break. Broken bolts mean possible injury means possible law suite? As I say I don't know but that's a complete guess.

uh isnt that like sunburn? the lighter carbon has been exposed to the sun so is a different color due to the weathering" same thing happens to car paint as far as i have been told. not sure if i am correct or not. perhaps some experts can comment.

ok so i finally got the ss project off the ground, took ages to strip the frame of all the paint, eventually i used a sand blaster to achieve the clean frame. was very tempted to just put some clear coat on and build up as a polished frame but decided i had already spent money on the paint so am going to use it. so far the frame has its primer and base. am going to add some pinstripes, accent paint touches etc and then clear. will post more pics as i go along.

lol poephol here got it the wrong way round, sorry. saw the feature on a mates spez, for some reason i assumed RS.

uh i so prefer the small ones nothing worse than a dinner plate. as for my bike doesnt really bother me as long as it holds

I have has some experience with both, my 2c worth is they are both very good shocks with very little to complain about on each. My experience was that the fox handles the big stuff better than it handles the small stuff if that makes sense. Don't get me wrong it's not uncomfortable over small bumps but it does seem to feel slightly harder. On The big stuff and technical drop offs etc i was doing the shock seems like completely different in that the shock is plush all the way through the travel and feels like a million bucks under my ass. The rock shock I found to be just as plush but it seemed to handle the small bumps in a more plush way if that makes sense. I also found it slightly easier to set the rock shock to my riding style but that may be because I had experience from 2 years worth of trial and error to learn from. In short I don't think you will be making a mistake with either but if you can get the auto-sag rock shock version take that. It's a very nifty feature( don't know if fox has its version of this feature or nor but am sure they do) As I say that's my experience and 2c

http://www.makro.co.za/p/36837/raleigh-workshop-floor-plastic-pump/ thats about as cheap as you are going to find, not the best pump out but should do the job. personally i would spring for one of these or the Gaint one sold at Sportsmans. http://www.sportsmanswarehouse.co.za/bbb-air-boost-floor-pump.html

AWESOME :clap: :clap:

Rear is left, front is right, had my bmx setup that way as a kid and never forgot. Have ridden the other way round and not killed myself but feels very wierd that way. Oh my road and MTB are the same, day I got my rd bike I almost killed myself in the cradle though as it was swapped.

I agree that R1500 is flipping steep if that's just for the labour but there are a number of factors here. You say that it included the tires, is that new tubeless tires or the original ones? what tires are they, I ride mountain king 2.4 for example, they are R700 a tire( give or take depending on the shop etc) So R600 a tire means that the R 300 difference covered the sealant, valves, rim stip( if they are not tubeless rims) etc. Not a bad price if you ask me. If however if they performed a "conversion" of the tires the bike came with then yes it's a flipping rip off and should perhaps be questioned with the shop management and go armed with some facts, in a non aggressive way check the price of the shelf stock they used, sealant, valves, etc. and then state to the manager that the stock items cost x but you charged y. And question why, we all need to make money but daylight robbery is just not on, also if the big cycle chain was cajees...... Well that's your answer as they believe everyone that doesn't ask for discount and best price is an idiot and deserves to be ripped off! Again all depends on the circumstances and prices of what was actually used. My Sunday 2c anyway.

Ooh that's just pornography.... I want some in red!

Yeah but a range of 50-100ft is going to be pretty limited when it comes to finding a bicycle

Tighten the bolts!!! Shouldn't be loose but may have worked loose or possible wasn't tightened properly after the build. Could be one of a thousand different things that caused it as long as you can tighten the bolts no harm no foul.