Alouette3

Some nice mods he's got on that machine, also the Silvia steam wand. The older machine does have a couple things they have moved away from with the newer model, if memory serves me correctly the solenoid valve is one thing. I'm very happy with my Classic, but that price is a bit steep, especially second hand, even if it does have a PID. With that money you could pick up a used Simonelli Oscar rather.

Yebo. Very basic but works a treat.

New rear rim fitted

I have some older 10 speed kit I can dig out. Shifters are i-spec B though, so mounting them could be an issue. Also have an 11T from a 10spd cassette.

Pivot bearings, basically assume they need to be replaced. Full complement suspension bearings are very expensive, and only really available through bike shops by brands like Enduro. You can get generic bearings, from a bearing supplier, but they will be cage type. These do work but last half as long though are a quarter of the price which is ok if you replace yourself. Shock bushings Then also when was the shock last serviced fully. I've just been down this road, though thankfully Droo @ Stoke Suspension helped me out. Full suspension is great, but requires a lot more looking after with maintenance.

The MT200's are not Enduro style stoppers so don't expect that kind of performance, but as a basic brake, for the money are difficult to beat. The levers are 3 finger, so not as compact and ergonomic as higher end Shimano stuff, but that feel is personal preference.

A note on the Elixir "wheel" adjustment, you can just use the Allen key head that is behind the lever instead of using that useless plastic wheel.

Knipe Racing, R250 to replace thread when I called them.

Just fitted a set of Rapidé rims 2 months ago... already completed destroyed the rear

Answer all depends on what rims are currently fitted and also what you would land up replacing rims or hub with and also in relation to what kind of riding you do. Certain Stan's rims can be susceptible to cracking down the line. If looked after correctly, cup and cone hubs can works just fine. I'm a little concerned that the 2nd bike shop said they would not even service them but just replace. Have they actually inspected the hubs and bearings before making this call? Rough hubs good be poorly adjust bearing preload or not correctly locking the the nuts. Cone spanners are a very cheap addition to the tool box.

It's a long way till Friday

Just a not on the "broken part" or "grinding" on the swing arm, that is just a loop for you to cable tie the hose in place, they used to were through on most of those Giant models, I eventually just left it unattached so would not be worried. The clear coat flaking is most likely from a front derailleur that came fitted stock. As for the crack, get a professional opinion first before Bikehub pitch forks someone again. Pictures can't diagnose it. But good job on a thorough inspection, that's the underside of the link and most people would never have seen it. I doubt the previous owner is even aware of it. If you not happy and eventually get hold of the seller, just try reverse the deal.

If you desperate a shim can be made from a soda can

I could get behind this

Looking for a couple of these that won't cost the price of a whole replacement shifter.

Only used paper filters personally. Lots of people including myself rinse and reuse them a couple times.

Lots of us. Makes a great cupper and is my go to when traveling, paired with a Hario grinder.

NIce! Will take a couple ride to get used to it, or even remember that it is there. Up for climbs, Down for descents and drop it just an inch for those twisty single tracks.

PM'ed you if you change your mind. Even half of it.

Nothing aa good as the real stuff. Droo at Stoke suspension always has a stock.

Can you post a picture?

Looking for a length of Hydraulic hose. Anyone have from a rear brake maybe that they changed the hose? Before I fork out for a new one.

The added fork length to 120mm would also have the positive of a slackening the headtube angle. On my old Trance, 25mm increase gave us 0.95 degrees. Get your hands on that dropper, just check that your bike frame is compatible with what ever the cable routing is. Older frames normally require external cable routing. Bars at 740mm are already an improvement on stock and should be just fine. The rest you can replace as components wear.

Lots of those cheap plastic mud guards out on the trails. I've got a CSixx on my Pike and happy with it, keeps a lot of crud out my face and some of the dynamic parts up front. Can't go wrong for the money. Most bike shops will have some form of that guard sold at the counter. I used to years back get the templates off the net and cut them out of plastic chopping mats that you get from a China shop for R25 a pack of 2/3.

Which fox fork is it to start with. Could be one of a couple of seals or even the valve if it's loosing air. The Tala versions sometimes also collapse without actually loosing their pressure, the air leaking into the talas section rather. Full service with new seals all round should fix though.