Alouette3

Rims are a bit tricky to find stock in 28H currently, besides DT. I've just bought a set of the Rapidé 30mm ID rims and laced them up, but haven't had them on long enough to give feedback on longevity. Enjoying the extra width coming from DT 22.5mm.

PM me

Buy the Avalanche above for R2500 before he changes his mind! Good condition, with basic but fairly dependable components that beat any Makro special. Unfortunately bikes, especially second hand are way over valued at the moment due to a complete shortage worldwide.

Drop a mail to admin@onlinecoffeeshop.co.za they helped me out a couple weeks back, 58mm should be easy to get.

Do you know the size of the basket?

Good to know, thanks! Only fitted the quad ring as I happened to have the right size in stock.

Will probably do this. Just done the first ride on my wider rims, so I'll swap the damper over after I've done a couple more rides to make sure I'm isolating the changes, an they not contributed to the wheels.

Damn thing won't die, thought I was pushing it getting 5000km already! I want to fit the larger range 11 speed cassette I have

This is what I've heard and why I'm hesitant to just do the swap.

Wouldn't call this a bodge repair, it was simply a u-cup seal that was complete toast. Replaced it with a quad ring and a small o-ring as a spacer. Been running those quad rings on various Reverb dropper post pistons with great success for a while now. Charger 1 I've done a rebuild myself about a year ago and have the bleed tools etc

I was rotating chains, but one chain seemed to wear faster then the other and only one meshed with the cassette. So both chain and cassette are properly worn. Cheap HG500 cassette has about 6000km and chain about 5000km. Next time I will make sure the chains I rotate are the same same brand etc

What a worn cassette looks like! But it still shifts and runs smoothly, so I'll run it till it dies. Have a brand new set of running gear in the cupboard for the moment this thing skips a beat.

I run a 2016 Pike 140mm RC on my Jeffsy with the original Charger 1 damper. I've got my hands on an updated Charger 2 RCT 3 damper, which had a leaking adjuster knob which I managed to successfully repair. For those knowledgeable ones, is it worth my while swapping out my Charger 1 with the updated Charger 2 (not 2.1)? Would just need the adjuster knobs. Some perks - Charger 1 you can get a full rebuild kit for, including bladder, the Charger 2 has Lockout etc... not that I would use it. Otherwise I may just flog the Charger 2

Willing to test out. Based in Tokai

Try Checkers. They have a knock off home brand version of the Hario for about R200 and it come with 2 jars if I recall correctly

Check for branding on the actual hub and not the freebody

Something like this, just need to find a local place that has stock.

At least we got sorted what the last monkey managed to do. I'm to scared to even think about that old Brain Shock at the back! For anyone else that has the rebound issue, put the rebound knob screw back in place if you going to use any tools, to reduce the risk of cracking the rod at the threads

They weren't pretty, but popped out just fine.

Success! Opened the damper, found which way it was stuck, and with a bit of persuasion got the Rebound to pop loose.

Brilliant! Received thanks

Rebound was stuck before I removed the damper. I have now removed the entire damper unit, rebound still stuck. I want to service it, but can't find a manual for the damper.

Busy giving a mates older Gen 1, Fox 32 Talas RLC a service Found that the Rebound knob is completely stuck in its position, same goes for the bottom Lockout Force knob. What are my next actions for fixing and releasing the rebound? Fox only seems to have complete tear down videos of their newer forks and I can only find air side manuals for this one. Tried wiggling the the rebound loose with some flats after removing the knob with no luck. Don't want to go snap the rod.

Mail call! Thanks Wayne. Jeffsy gets an upgrade from 22.5mm to 30mm ID Now the weekend project to build a truing stand, so I don't have to build yet another wheel on the bike frame.