Alouette3

Run it into the frame on the left where the other cables go in. If the insert only allows for 2, you should be able to get another insert to allow a 3rd cable in.

That is a SRAM clamp mount you are after, fairly common, just not cheap. Other options are using an old left hand shifter and converting that, or a lever unit from Lyne or Rapidé cycles.

Let us know the brand and use, if it's a shifter or dropper post and it someone can steer you in the direction of which clamp you need. They all different.

That would be appreciated

You would be welcomed with open arms in this thread. Page 1 has nothing much to do with what it has become by page 420.

I'll give some feedback once I've used it a bit. Been wanting one for years. Know a couple helicopter engineers that have the whole range and it's all they have in the traveling tool case for spanners.

5-25nm. Got it through Teng Tools locally online. Normal price R1153, got it on their Braai Day special for R1038. Comes with calibration certificate etc and quality is tops. Drop Simon a mail, great bunch, very helpful and often run specials. Knipex came with a friend from the UK

New additions to the bench.

Knipe Racing has just replaced a drive side thread for me last week, they use inserts which as much better then using a Helicoil. R380

Think the general consensus here is that most things are better then Nespresso. Been using my Moka pot again a fair bit recently when I just want a quick americano style instead of warming up the Gaggia for a Cappuccino

Glad you stayed on! Learnt to respect the wind on Tokai Vasbyt /Dh3 entrance, 29" wheels are like sails in the SE'er, bought the second table top for the cost of a collar bone.

The stiffness is not found in the air strut, but rather the keys and bushings in the main stantion. Open up your lyne post and check for excessive wear or maybe a dud bushing. They have published a video on how to service. Though at a couple months old the play should not be excessive. Chat to Lyne, they always very helpful.

Use an old left hand front shifter. Pop it open, remove the ratcheting mechanism spring and you sorted and you will probably get one for free from someone

Won't work, I tried on my Radac single speed.

Basically any 28H rim will work, if you importing then maybe Chain reaction has something in their Nukeproof range? The important number to look for is the ERD if you are wanting to keep your spokes and nipples. The ERD will basically give you the diameter of the rim at the point where the nipples rest on. ±2mm should be fine and you can keep the same spoke length.

There were a couple Spank 28H rims brought in by the agents a couple weeks back, your LBS should be able to help you out. Other DT Swiss are likely the only ones you might find in stock. Most rims are an issue at the moment with stock, 28H just makes it worse

Rapidé cycles has

Anyone have real world experience with the stuff? Lots of marketing articles and reviews but not much in the way of actual results on the trail. I'm currently on Enduro Seal and used Stans before that.

There are some services being offered from a mobile van. Though a bit more capital outlay, in my mind a better option and you able to customise your workspace and workflow, and don't need to be in someones personal home space while still offering convenience.

Just No See it on cars all the time and it gets me raging. Why should I even have to tell them upfront not to. I'll take your free stickers, but it must be my choice to actually stick it on.

Older 6/7/8 speed chains I've had no trouble reusing the pins, on the newer narrow chain I've had less luck and had it split open at the link after a couple rides. After that I stick to master links or quicklinks. Master links have little lips in them to retain the links. You can often see this as a little ring of metal that pulls off when pushing a link out of a chain. So in theory it could work reusing the pins, but probably not worth it for the absolute pain of a chain breaking on a ride.

That Archer unit looks cool!

Shimano changed the cable pull ratios between 9 an 10 speed.

Not true, this is the reference paragraph to the table posted: "Cassette standards differ by number of speeds, i.e. by the number of sprockets on a cassette. Generally: the more speeds (sprockets), the thinner a single sprocket gets and the more densely they are packed (less distance between adjacent sprockets). Distance between the middles of two adjacent sprockets is called “cassette pitch” (different from sprocket pitch, that defines adjacent teeth distance)." https://bike.bikegremlin.com/3573/bicycle-cassette-rear-chainrings-standards/ Whether a derailleur and shifter will work together is dependent on the cable pull ratios http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/ Though in the real world some of the combinations listed in the above article not to work, do actualy work just fine.

Just for clarity, that table above refers to the cassette spacing only, so you could mix and match cassette brands between complete group sets. There some reports on the net of people mixing Sram shifter with a Shimano derailleur, this may work, but is not covered by that table though, as this would rely on cable pull ratios instead. Shimano actually uses a very similar pull ratio on the derailleur side across 10 - 11 - 12 speed and I've used a 11spd rear derailleur with a 10spd drive train, which works beautifully. Even used a M7000 12spd rear on and 11spd drive train, but they are designed for 51T cassettes so you can't wind in the B-set enough on a 46T so it is very noisy at the top, shifts fine though. Sorry I don't have a shifter for you. Have a derailleur, but shifter is buggered.