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Top end disc brakes - what to buy?


Caltrigger

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Choosing brakes is not a science is it? There is no way to offer a reliable review as all opinions are based on experience with a particular brake from good batch/bad batch.. I want to see a test where three of the same brake is tested to get an average rating..

 

There are also so many variables. Did you replace the rotor when fitting the new set, or did you clean it properly, did you use the right stuff, are they bedded in properly, did some lube creep passed your attention and add a dash of contaminant to your life?? Squeal? Organic vs sintered...

 

The debate is almost endless. Has anyone seen a decent review that took all the variables into account?

 

:huh:

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Avids will anly feel k@k if you dont bleed them right, if you do the are excelent.

My first disc brakes after v -brake are avid elixer cr.They work fine and the screetch warns the rider in front of me that i am on his tail.Maybe i"m not spoilt yet :)

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Oh for goodness sake. Stop phaffing around with scales and reviews. Buy on looks and emotion.

 

post-1761-0-78015200-1317147861.jpg

Edited by Johan Bornman
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Formula R1 - end of story :thumbup:

Seriously, they are the bomb. I've yet to hear of someone that has not rated the R1's as some of the best brakes they have ever used.

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Although apparently the new XX's are gonna be quite good.

And hey, if its good enough for the Burry's, Kulhavy's and Sausers', its good enough for anybody.

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Guest Omega Man

Oh for goodness sake. Stop phaffing around with scales and reviews. Buy on looks and emotion.

 

post-1761-0-78015200-1317147861.jpg

What he said. Those are Hawt.

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Guest Omega Man

The Formulas are fairly sexual too. But for me it would be Hope M4. That's just cos I like 4 pots.

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Formula R1 with the carbon lever upgrade and Ti bolts, should be around 263g then. They also work with the Avid Matchmakers so you can have less weight and less clutter on the bars.

 

I have a set of the 1st R1's with the magnesium levers and I cannot recommend them highly enough.

Excellent power, sometimes the 160mm rotor on the rear is too much so if you are light consider a 140mm on the back.

Great modulation, not noisy either.

They also don't overheat in my experience, dragged my brakes down the Sudwala decent at the 3 towers with no discernable fade.

 

To me brakes are still very important to go fast in xc, the better your brakes the longer you can be on the gas, decelerate quickly and get going again. Otherwise you have to drag the brakes for a bit to slow down, not ideal. Also helps the confidence on fast and tricky stuff knowing you have good brakes as a backup :thumbup:

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Nobody mentioned the Formula THE ones... tad heavier then R1's but downhill performance. Burry's wise words: iff you knoy you can decend faster than your rival, all you have to do is stick with him up the climbs..

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What do you mean "they modulate"? Decent modulation is what you want from a disc brake. Good modulation is where there is a progressive difference in stopping power the harder you pull the lever. Most DB's have good modulation these days.

 

Personally, I'd go with the Formulas. Elegant. But nothing wrong with the Avids. Never had an o-ring eaten by the fluid (same concept as car brakes, which last for ages) and bleeding is just systematic. Follow the instructions and it's easy. I find the Formula brakes more of a pain to bleed actually.

I said they they modulate like a cheaper set...ie they don't :blink: I had a set and it's a on or off feeling on the brakes

 

Talk to me again in while...its not if those o-rings go...its when, Dot5 eats rubber Fact, oh when they do go, try and get those parts.

 

As for the bleeding, shimano is piece pie, my elixir cr's a nightmare(but maybe its just me). The problem I have after bleeding them is that they feel fine but let the bike stand for 24 hours and they are pap(happened to me more than once, well done if you are getting it right)

Edited by rouxtjie
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if it's any consolation for the avid haters (hahahha ), then the 2012 avid elixirs are a nod in the direction of those that complain about bleeding avids, even elixirs. Prior to 2012 stuff, the design did unfortunately hold air traps, but the solution is and always was PROPER bleeding.

 

The 2012 designs have a new bleed port and redesigned internals to eliminate problems with the old designs.

 

that said, there is ZERO wrong with Avid stuff. I've had J5s, Elixir CRs and now 2011 Codes.

I'm sorry, but if u think CRs dont have enough stopping power, or they dont modulate, there's something wrong with you. I've used CRs on my DH sled and they stop alright. holycow do they stop.

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The debate is almost endless. Has anyone seen a decent review that took all the variables into account?

 

:huh:

Yes, it's right here in my head.

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