Maximis Posted December 5, 2015 Posted December 5, 2015 (edited) Right, the shifting down the up again to the right gear is shyte and annoying.Makes perfect sense then to use the RAD replacent cage qhen going wide ride.Thanks for that info as i was considering the wide range cassette as some point but now know the RD needs to change along with it.Ok I have my 1x10 set up to almost perfect now. The top jockey wheel is closer to the big sprocket than I would like even with a longer b tension screw. There is a bit of noise when shifting. I replaced the cable with a new one and started setting up from scratch and its working pretty well. The shifts are smooth although a bit delayed here and there. I think I would still consider getting the RAD cage just for that extra gap and the top. Does anyone know where I can get one from and how much it will cost?Here is a pic of my setup Edited December 5, 2015 by Maximis Mopkop 1
V12man Posted December 5, 2015 Posted December 5, 2015 Ok I have my 1x10 set up to almost perfect now. The top jockey wheel is closer to the big sprocket than I would like even with a longer b tension screw. There is a bit of noise when shifting. I replaced the cable with a new one and started setting up from scratch and its working pretty well. The shifts are smooth although a bit delayed here and there. I think I would still consider getting the RAD cage just for that extra gap and the top. Does anyone know where I can get one from and how much it will cost?Here is a pic of my setup image.jpgSpeak to hubber bibi - about 6 - 700 I think
Jaco-fiets Posted December 5, 2015 Posted December 5, 2015 http://i68.tinypic.com/nox6hw.jpg Rocket-Boy and Fruity 2
AlanD Posted December 5, 2015 Posted December 5, 2015 Ok I have my 1x10 set up to almost perfect now. The top jockey wheel is closer to the big sprocket than I would like even with a longer b tension screw. There is a bit of noise when shifting. I replaced the cable with a new one and started setting up from scratch and its working pretty well. The shifts are smooth although a bit delayed here and there. I think I would still consider getting the RAD cage just for that extra gap and the top. Does anyone know where I can get one from and how much it will cost?Here is a pic of my setup image.jpgThat looks really cool????. Glad you got the shifting better now. As an alternative you can also use a goat link to correct the shifting. Naas from Evobikes suggested that. Maybe speak to him as he said he had in stock.
eccc whippet Posted December 5, 2015 Posted December 5, 2015 20151204_152917.jpgwhy the look and not shimano pedals? the reason i ask this is because i have a small situation...the bike i bought has look pedals on them...i have taken them off and using mtb shimano pedals for now until i figue out what to do. i need to invest in a pair of road bike shoes..the issue i have is do i stick with look pedals or do i change to shimano pedals...apparently you cant use shimano cleat on look pedals and visa versa. i looked around today at both the shimano and look pedals...a few bob difference in price...however there seems to be a difference in weigh and compound...the look pedals seem lighter for the cheaper model units...the platform slightly wider on the shimano pedal...until you go into the more expensive models.
jimmycool Posted December 5, 2015 Posted December 5, 2015 why the look and not shimano pedals? the reason i ask this is because i have a small situation...the bike i bought has look pedals on them...i have taken them off and using mtb shimano pedals for now until i figue out what to do. i need to invest in a pair of road bike shoes..the issue i have is do i stick with look pedals or do i change to shimano pedals...apparently you cant use shimano cleat on look pedals and visa versa. i looked around today at both the shimano and look pedals...a few bob difference in price...however there seems to be a difference in weigh and compound...the look pedals seem lighter for the cheaper model units...the platform slightly wider on the shimano pedal...until you go into the more expensive models.Nothing too deep about the decision. They were just on a good special from cwc so I went with them. I have only ever used mtb pedals so I don't have anything to reference them to. I will let you know how I find them after a few rides.
jimmycool Posted December 5, 2015 Posted December 5, 2015 Also, they come with cleats anyway so there are no compatibility issues there.
Rocket-Boy Posted December 5, 2015 Posted December 5, 2015 why the look and not shimano pedals? the reason i ask this is because i have a small situation...the bike i bought has look pedals on them...i have taken them off and using mtb shimano pedals for now until i figue out what to do. i need to invest in a pair of road bike shoes..the issue i have is do i stick with look pedals or do i change to shimano pedals...apparently you cant use shimano cleat on look pedals and visa versa. i looked around today at both the shimano and look pedals...a few bob difference in price...however there seems to be a difference in weigh and compound...the look pedals seem lighter for the cheaper model units...the platform slightly wider on the shimano pedal...until you go into the more expensive models.There is very little in it, get some look cleats and use them for a while, if you dont like them then change them.Changing for the sake of changing isnt worth it. Patchelicious and Spoke101 2
Tumbleweed Posted December 7, 2015 Posted December 7, 2015 Got this on Saturday. It got the nod of approval from erstwhile hub style guru Willehond... fanievb, T-Bob and Fruity 3
T-Bob Posted December 7, 2015 Posted December 7, 2015 (edited) Joined the aero gang today... Louis Garneau Course. Pipped the Kask Protone, Giro Synthe and Bontrager Ballista for a variety of reasons. Had to order from overseas because I couldn't find it locally (same with the Bontrager). At the moment you can also get a new Protone, Synthe and POC for around the £99 mark on Ebay from proper online bike shops. That's about a R2K saving if that's your thang! http://content.competitivecyclist.com/images/items/large/LGN/LGN0833/BK_D1.jpg Edited December 7, 2015 by hellocolour fanievb and GT Jimmy 2
King Dean Posted December 7, 2015 Posted December 7, 2015 New toys! Absolute Black 34T Oval Chainring: And Garmin Edge 520: Lexx, Captain Fastbastard Mayhem and Steven Knoetze (sk27) 3
shaper Posted December 7, 2015 Posted December 7, 2015 Due to training for triathlons am wearing a chest strap 6 days a week (only time I do not wear is in the pool). Maybe because of the heat we are experiencing, am finding am getting a permanent sweat rash and itch feeling so gone and bought myself one of these. A Mio Link Wrist Heart Rate Monitor, which is paired to my Edge 500 when cycling and 910XT for all other training. Rocket-Boy and Mongoose! 2
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted December 7, 2015 Posted December 7, 2015 Due to training for triathlons am wearing a chest strap 6 days a week (only time I do not wear is in the pool). Maybe because of the heat we are experiencing, am finding am getting a permanent sweat rash and itch feeling so gone and bought myself one of these. A Mio Link Wrist Heart Rate Monitor, which is paired to my Edge 500 when cycling and 910XT for all other training. miolink2.jpgMiolink3.jpgHave you washed the strap yet? They recommend 7 uses between washes.. Lexx 1
shaper Posted December 7, 2015 Posted December 7, 2015 Have you washed the strap yet? They recommend 7 uses between washes.. Gets washed every Sunday.. thanks!! Captain Fastbastard Mayhem 1
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted December 7, 2015 Posted December 7, 2015 Gets washed every Sunday.. thanks!!May be a reaction with something in the powder or softener? Under sweating conditions, it attacks...
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