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Bikes for Enduro... The restart


braailegend

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So if the POLE machine is just not enough travel for you, then let me introduce you to the POLE stamina....sure the pic may have been posted here before, but sure the link to the bike specs

 

https://polebicycles.com/stamina/

 

https://polebicycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Pole-Stamina-Prototype-DS-complete.jpg

 

I'd love to ride the 'Machine'. You know despite the designer saying don't buy the Stamina unless you are planning on it being a pure enduro race bike for anything other than steepest gnar you can find as you'll be sorely disappointed there will be people will be 'oh yeah that will be an awesome bike for Hoogies / the spruit / Tokai'.  :whistling:

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I'd love to ride the 'Machine'. You know despite the designer saying don't buy the Stamina unless you are planning on it being a pure enduro race bike for anything other than steepest gnar you can find as you'll be sorely disappointed there will be people will be 'oh yeah that will be an awesome bike for Hoogies / the spruit / Meer-en-dull'.  :whistling:

FYP. 

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I would be happy to swing a leg over the POLE EVOLINK 140 

 

Pole-Evolink-140-29-Test-Review-web-9-vo

 

I'd love to ride the 'Machine'. You know despite the designer saying don't buy the Stamina unless you are planning on it being a pure enduro race bike for anything other than steepest gnar you can find as you'll be sorely disappointed there will be people will be 'oh yeah that will be an awesome bike for Hoogies / the spruit / Tokai'.  :whistling:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone know the price of the new Santa Cruz Bronson (Alu) R build in South Africa? Can’t seem to find any pricing.

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Anyone know the price of the new Santa Cruz Bronson (Alu) R build in South Africa? Can’t seem to find any pricing.

Last week I sent an email to SC via their www and they replied that the SA guys don’t have any alum Bronson frames, and that I should contact the SAagents to see if they could do a special order for one.....too much PT if you ask me
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A read of many reviews of bikes with new school geo vs new but older geo bikes, will reveal that often the shorter less slack bikes still get very positive reviews eg the Bronson. A favourite comment from Enduro MTB reviewers  when writing about a Pole, for instance is "the bike requires a very active riding style" which is code for "you need to shift your weight over the front for cornering or risk losing it up front" . This gets tiring and for most people is probably the wrong bike.

 

My two bikes illustrate this difference perfectly. The longish slackish Enduro lacks bite up front while the shorter and less slack especially when the fork is sagged, HT, has so much front end grip I can run faster rolling less grippy tyres up front without any loss of cornering control on dry/rocky/hard trails. It is only on really steep terrain where that super slack and long bike shines - like trying to ride fast at Jonkers, or the black tracks at Tokai. That said, a Pole or Geometron is probably ideal in the Alps for repeat black runs at Morzine, but around here, not so much. 

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This bike has sensible numbers to me. Maybe too much travel, but if its light enough and the suspension is properly progressive, it would probably be a fun and versatile bike. Canyon-Torque-CF-Test-Review-web-63-1140

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A read of many reviews of bikes with new school geo vs new but older geo bikes, will reveal that often the shorter less slack bikes still get very positive reviews eg the Bronson. A favourite comment from Enduro MTB reviewers when writing about a Pole, for instance is "the bike requires a very active riding style" which is code for "you need to shift your weight over the front for cornering or risk losing it up front" . This gets tiring and for most people is probably the wrong bike.

 

My two bikes illustrate this difference perfectly. The longish slackish Enduro lacks bite up front while the shorter and less slack especially when the fork is sagged, HT, has so much front end grip I can run faster rolling less grippy tyres up front without any loss of cornering control on dry/rocky/hard trails. It is only on really steep terrain where that super slack and long bike shines - like trying to ride fast at Jonkers, or the black tracks at Tokai. That said, a Pole or Geometron is probably ideal in the Alps for repeat black runs at Morzine, but around here, not so much.

Personally I like the "older" new school geo. When long and slack goes too far I find the bikes become very hard to ride (for me anyway). I'm by no means a hard charger, I enjoy techy riding, but I'm not fast, so a more responsive and snappier (slightly shorter) bike does it for me.

 

Eg: on my Evil there is a high and low setting. In the high setting HA is around 66° - in that setting the bike is responsive, playfull, and just all around fun to ride. When switched over into the low setting (HA just under 65°) I find the bike to be an absolute chore to pedal around. When the trail points down the front wheel does not bite at all unless my weight is way over the front, the front wheel is floppy and lazy around corners, and it feels like I am trying to steer a farm gate around a corner. The only time I can say it is better is in a straight line at high speed - more stability.

 

Now I get the appeal of the ultra long, low and slack bikes for someone that really rides hard and fast all the time - maybe someone that takes Enduro racing seriously. But for me, and I suspect the majority of weekend #endurobros the "old" new geometry hits the sweet spot between fast and stable, and play and poppy. This way you can still enjoy the bike at less than warp speeds.

 

Just my 2c. It seems reviewers are also of this opinion when you read reviews of the SB150, Foxy, Pole, etc etc.

 

Pinkbike had an "ideal geo" post the other day. For me I would have to go for 140mm rear, 150mm front, 65.5° HA, 77° STA, shortish chainstays, low stack height, 455mm reach, and enough room for a 150mm dropper; @1.78m tall (aka short).

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Pinkbike had an "ideal geo" post the other day. For me I would have to go for 140mm rear, 150mm front, 65.5° HA, 77° STA, shortish chainstays, low stack height, 455mm reach, and enough room for a 150mm dropper; @1.78m tall (aka short).

 

@1.73, that would be the ideal numbers for me too. Perhaps a slightly slacker STA of 75.5 for a longer horizontal top tube length, ideally around 610 mm. 

Low stack height and short uninterrupted seat tubes are way underrated for short people, which goes a long way to improve front wheel grip.

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Personally I like the "older" new school geo. When long and slack goes too far I find the bikes become very hard to ride (for me anyway). I'm by no means a hard charger, I enjoy techy riding, but I'm not fast, so a more responsive and snappier (slightly shorter) bike does it for me.

 

Eg: on my Evil there is a high and low setting. In the high setting HA is around 66° - in that setting the bike is responsive, playfull, and just all around fun to ride. When switched over into the low setting (HA just under 65°) I find the bike to be an absolute chore to pedal around. When the trail points down the front wheel does not bite at all unless my weight is way over the front, the front wheel is floppy and lazy around corners, and it feels like I am trying to steer a farm gate around a corner. The only time I can say it is better is in a straight line at high speed - more stability.

 

Now I get the appeal of the ultra long, low and slack bikes for someone that really rides hard and fast all the time - maybe someone that takes Enduro racing seriously. But for me, and I suspect the majority of weekend #endurobros the "old" new geometry hits the sweet spot between fast and stable, and play and poppy. This way you can still enjoy the bike at less than warp speeds.

 

Just my 2c. It seems reviewers are also of this opinion when you read reviews of the SB150, Foxy, Pole, etc etc.

 

Pinkbike had an "ideal geo" post the other day. For me I would have to go for 140mm rear, 150mm front, 65.5° HA, 77° STA, shortish chainstays, low stack height, 455mm reach, and enough room for a 150mm dropper; @1.78m tall (aka short).

You've just persuaded me to change my big bike back to the high setting...

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You've just persuaded me to change my big bike back to the high setting...

I've changed the Evil into the low setting twice now, hated it each time. So much so that I changed it trail side the last time...

 

I have a feeling you will have a much more playfull bike with a grippier front end in the high setting.... do it!

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The reviews always claim that the longer bikes are more stable, as if the only slightly shorter bikes are somehow a handful. To harp on about my amazing HT again, short as it is, I find it quite stable enough. I scared myself mildly two days ago hitting over 55 km/h on a short rough section of trail. I got off line as I was caught out by the slightly higher speed but the bike hardly noticed my riding errors. Clipping a rock off line with the front wheel elicited a ping from the rim and nothing more.

 

My current theory is that once a bike is relatively okay in the geo department - i.e reasonable comfy reach, steep enough STA eg 74 plus, slack enough HTA eg 66 on a long travel dual suspension,  you're away on all but the steepest terrain. Push it too short in reach and you get tired out while standing and too long/slack you have to work too hard to corner well. 

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I've changed the Evil into the low setting twice now, hated it each time. So much so that I changed it trail side the last time...

 

I have a feeling you will have a much more playfull bike with a grippier front end in the high setting.... do it!

Part of the problem I found recently was I was running way too much sag. Pumping the shock up so that I am now on 30% ( yes my sag was way, way out) has helped hugely. Next, the flip chip thing.

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I've changed the Evil into the low setting twice now, hated it each time. So much so that I changed it trail side the last time...

 

I have a feeling you will have a much more playfull bike with a grippier front end in the high setting.... do it!

 

I thought the Following was a 67.4 in high and 66.8 in low? Either way I think there is too much attention paid to the HA and the SA numbers alone. It's all you hear talk of. The 'old' numbers of the Following V1 were good enough to make them come out with the MB and keep it virtually the same. I'd say the area of 66.5 is probably the perfect alrounder but it is about how the package works as a whole. Having said that the best bikes I've ridden and enjoyed the most for the trails here in SA are slightly more than that. Last 65 angle bike I rode was so hard to get any fun out of and that was touted as a quiver killer in the review. Which was done in Squamish. Which is no where near what we ride here. 

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