FC&P2C Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 Hi, any help would really be appreciated.My tandem's rear pedals has never been removed since bying it new in 2007. They are completely seized in the crank. And with numerous prior attempts of removing them has the 15mm bolt stripped! Anyone out here whom had this before?
Ed-Zulu Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 Hi, any help would really be appreciated.My tandem's rear pedals has never been removed since bying it new in 2007. They are completely seized in the crank. And with numerous prior attempts of removing them has the 15mm bolt stripped! Anyone out here whom had this before?Usually there is access for a 5mm Allan key from behind...???
madmarc Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 Just a stupid thought, are you loosening in the right direction ? because the left has a left hand thread johannrissik 1
V12man Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 Take the crank arm off and put the pedal in a vice Shangri la, LazyTrailRider and Goodbadugly 3
Jewbacca Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 (edited) Check the thread direction as mentioned before, drop some sewing machine oil in overnight, get the allen key/pedal spanner in place and as you give it even pressure, get someone to rapidly tap the pedal with a hammer..... Seriously. (Forgot to add the put in vice part..... oops) Edited November 20, 2013 by singlespeedGuy Ed-Zulu and Dustbin Dog 2
Maniax Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 from experience, don't put the allan key from the back and the spanner over the bolt and pull in opposite directions..... that doesn't work... Vangar, BarHugger and l4y3rcake 3
Falco Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 Heating and cooling will probably loosen it. The pedal and the crankarm are different metals, so they expand and contract at a different rate when heated and cooled, loosening the grip between them. Put the whole thing in hot water for an hour, then freeze it, then warm it to room temp again. If that doesn't loosen it, take it to an engineering shop Louzy 1
NotSoBigBen Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 Take the crank arm off and put the pedal in a vice Just thinking that unless you rermove the pedal 'body' from the shaft this wouldn't work? I have with MTB SPD pedals done exactly that!
V12man Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 Just thinking that unless you rermove the pedal 'body' from the shaft this wouldn't work? I have with MTB SPD pedals done exactly that! You just use the vice to grab the spindle, not the pedal body..... clearly that would not work... would be fun to watch... Jewbacca, NotSoBigBen and ChUkKy 3
BarHugger Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 from experience, don't put the allan key from the back and the spanner over the bolt and pull in opposite directions..... that doesn't work...
Maniax Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 Yip i thought you must hold the one end tight and to loosen the other...... needless to say, after a couple of bend allan keys and spanners, I realized my mistake.... nooby (idiot) mistake.... Vangar 1
Cylon Posted November 21, 2013 Posted November 21, 2013 (edited) This is a great video tutorial on how to easily remove pedals without damaging the crank arms:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jD0vhR7SgZU&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DjD0vhR7SgZU&app=desktop And if the pedals are seized try spraying some Q20 around the spindles and let it soak for a few hours before trying to remove them using the technique in the video above with a proper pedal spanner/wrench like this one as allen keys and shifting spanners don't work as well. Edited November 21, 2013 by cylon
Dazshell Posted November 21, 2013 Posted November 21, 2013 I came across this product. Finish Line Chill Zone. May do the trick. http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chill-zone.htm Skylark 1
Skylark Posted November 21, 2013 Posted November 21, 2013 (edited) Heat is your best friend in this situation, blow torch or preferably oxy-cetelyne torch.Q20 or penetrating oil will do diddly squat if it's properly seized in the crank arm with some corrosion thrown in for good measure. Take the pedal off the shaft if possible. Carefully heat the crank arm(not enough to affect the temper) and try keep the pedal shaft cooled with wet rags. Vice grips if that's the only option left and the pedal shaft should come out without a hassle, remember to turn the correct way to match the thread direction on each pedal.  Engineering shop won't charge much for this kind of job, they do real train wreck bolt extractions in really hard to access places, just ask for a quote before they start, they'll know exactly what you are talking about. I've seen some ridiculously rusted in and seized parts come loose easily with heat, before that was tried lots of swearing and slipped spanners , stripped heads, skinned knuckles... Edited November 21, 2013 by Skylark johannrissik 1
Skylark Posted November 21, 2013 Posted November 21, 2013 I came across this product. Finish Line Chill Zone. May do the trick. http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chill-zone.htm That stuff might work, the pedal needs the cooling effect applied on to it so it shrinks.
Flowta Posted November 21, 2013 Posted November 21, 2013 from experience, don't put the allan key from the back and the spanner over the bolt and pull in opposite directions..... that doesn't work... LOL
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