1x11 or not

[jcza]

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/leonardi-racing-9x42-cassette-10-speed-895767.html

 

Now if that doesn't work, take up running...

Take my money already....

[Rouxenator]

Come to think of it, I started on 1x9 (12t-36t) and it was pretty sweet. Don't over think it, just do it, your legs and body will adapt and you will find yourself out climbing people because your lowest ratio is higher than theirs. That in turn makes you feel good so you pedal harder.... positive feedback loop. 

[Shebeen]

The easy answer for me is horses for courses. If you're not using the top or bottom end of your range much, then it could make sense. Best thing is to analyse your setup ratios on xcel or online like rabbit and then ride thinking about your gears a lot. Also remember that wheelsize obviously makes a massive difference when comparing setups

 

I'm in the other boat, on 2x10 but am looking at down sizing my chainrings to give more options uphill. 26/36 is just not light enough for my usage (long endurance). I have my Sş for when I want to afkak.

[Rouxenator]

Thoroughly enjoyed my 1x8 roadie on the 99er this weekend. Out climbed a few riders on Vissershok. 

 

Definitely workout your ratios in Excel. That is what I did and how I managed to get the lowest and highest ratio I had on 3x8 with my new 1x8 setup. 

[Martin PJ]

Not mentioned on this thread, the 1x10 or 1x11 helps a lot in the mud. This was the original reason why I decided to swap to 1x10. Did Sani2C in the mud three years back, my partner was 1x11 and had no issues. I was 2x10. On Day 2 eventually I could not change gears up front. The derailleur was scraping mud off the tire and depositing on the drivetrain. The front cable too was wrecked in one day, so much mud inside the sleeve.

 

Converted my son's bike to 1x9 on the weekend. He battled a bit on hills yesterday, but he is a strong lad. His bike looks clean and neat, faster. Will convert this bike to 1x10 soon. He was always snapping chains and breaking derailleurs / hangers, changing gears under strain, especially when the front one does not shift up as neatly as it should and you are trying to push a thousands watts through it during a gear change. 

 

I bought us a couple of oval 34T chain rings on Aliexpress, they were around R450. We used them yesterday. Can't say I felt much difference with the oval shape, although they do retain the chain very nicely.

[Odinson]

Not mentioned on this thread, the 1x10 or 1x11 helps a lot in the mud. This was the original reason why I decided to swap to 1x10. Did Sani2C in the mud three years back, my partner was 1x11 and had no issues. I was 2x10. On Day 2 eventually I could not change gears up front. The derailleur was scraping mud off the tire and depositing on the drivetrain. The front cable too was wrecked in one day, so much mud inside the sleeve.

 

Converted my son's bike to 1x9 on the weekend. He battled a bit on hills yesterday, but he is a strong lad. His bike looks clean and neat, faster. Will convert this bike to 1x10 soon. He was always snapping chains and breaking derailleurs / hangers, changing gears under strain, especially when the front one does not shift up as neatly as it should and you are trying to push a thousands watts through it during a gear change. 

 

I bought us a couple of oval 34T chain rings on Aliexpress, they were around R450. We used them yesterday. Can't say I felt much difference with the oval shape, although they do retain the chain very nicely.

 

This is one of the main reasons I want to change to a single ring setup. 

 

The FD is a damn mud and muck magnet. Most of the trails I ride are muddy forest trails and the FD on my bike is loaded with mud after each ride. The real pain in the ass is trying to clean all of the gluey mud around the BB and chainstays. 

[Sj_1]

I converted to 1x11 about 9 months ago and must be honest I love it!!!

 

I went the 34t route and have not had any problems thus far. We will see if thats the case after Sabie Ultra in 3 weeks time...

 

The ratios are different to 2x10 but none of the big gaps that gets mentioned here. After a few weeks you are used to the new ratios and away you go. If you choose your front ring correctly it is also fit and forget. I have never though to myself: "Tomorrow I am doing flat and fast, lets put on a bigger ring"

 

The simplicity is a big plus point. And I get more than double the KM's out of a chain than on 2x10.

curious how you found the sabie on the 34T?

[raptor-22]

Sabie is quite easily found when you follow directions...

[Goodbadugly]

curious how you found the sabie on the 34T?

So am I.

I passed a lot of okes on the MAMBA pushing their 1x 10/11 bikes. Me with my (not so) obsolete front derrailleur.

[BaGearA]

with a 32 t wil you wil spin out at aprox 51km/h noone rides that speed even when afk@king,   But you wil also be able to climb up anything 

 

if you want  to go 2 x 11 there is no point you wil only gain 2 more ratios which you probably already have atm and then you still don't save weight for one heelva expensive upgrade 

 

you can even go with a 30 t and won't have problems 

 

my 2c

 

good luck and happy trails

[Dicky DQ]

Wait for 1 x 12 Coming March I think.......

[Thermophage]

Wow...a lot of haters out there. It's not a fad it's a preference.

And look at how much overlap you have in any case with 3x and 2x drivetrains. One really doesn't need all those gears IMHO.

As for passing people on uphills...Yeah that may happen if they decided to go for a 40 rear and 34 front, that could make the steeps a little tough. Although, whoever would decide to go 40 rear on a 1X setup deserves a little suffering

All I know is I love the simplicity and have no issues with hills (well, no more than I had with my old 2X setup) and seriously do not notice the phantom gaps between gear ratios. Even when running a 1x10 previously I still didn't notice, but maybe I'm just not sensitive enough...

Just do it and if you don't like it plonk on a front mech n shifter if you really want to...no real issue in my mind.

[Wannabe]

Recently did my 1x11 conversion (tx Rapide). 11-42rear / 32t front. 

Did Hoogekraal yesterday for the first time since the conversion, and even with the wind howling, I managed to improve my previous PB by almost 5 minutes. 

I could keep a better rhythm and it was easy to find the right gear. To me this was the acid test, as the regulars to Hoogies know, this is not an easy trail, lots of gear shifting going on.

 

And no, I'm not fitter than before, I'm coming back from a fall that kept me off the bike for the whole of December and most of Jan.

[JXV]

1 tooth really a 'big' difference if we're talking as you say 'the whole of your big blade'?

Yes it is....10% longer ratio on a 10t than a 11t. You have to go to a 36t chain ring with 11t to get similar top end as you would get with a 32/10 combo.

[s14phoenix]

Well I took the plunge and dropped the front derailleur.

 

For the not so steep I am running a 36T with the 11-42 (using Rapide Gearhead 42T and 16T swop - AWESOME BTW)

 

I have a 32T that I will use for the steeper stuff.

 

I was running XTR 42/30 crankset on a 11/36 cassette before.

 

Now I must confess. I don't think the weight is that much different but anyway:

 

Front Shifter: 110g

XTR Front derailleur: 120g

XTR Crank with 42/30: 632g

XTR Crank with Wolftooth 36T: 584g

 

XTR chainrings 40/28 (for reference) : 90g/26g

Wolftooth 36T: 71g

 

Cable and sleeve: 50g (guessing)

 

Total saving 325g +/-

 

Add Range extender and 16T swopout +/- 75g

 

Final saving: 250g

 

Taking into account this was on all XTR stuff, you will probably find that even more can be saved on XT and SLX setups typically.

 

[Rouxenator]

Getting my 11-42 fitted today along with a new 32t NW from kitted. I have never had issues with my 12-36t 1x9 or my 11-36t 1x10, so the upgrade to 42t at the back will be sweet.

 

I'll post pics of the Rapide 32t NW that I have had for the last 9000km, it is almost unusable with missing teeth - it had a hard life, I'm very impressed with it.