Post your woodwork here

[Hairy]

the regulars: sacrificed at the cost altar or...? 

a combination of them not having capacity at the time doing all the other bespoke joinery in the house with the stairs having a tight timeline (even though this contractor was over by 2 months...long story) and not so much cost.

[carrera4s]

 

I now have a project that I want to do on the lathe, and it requires me to drill a hole in the end of the spindle.  I have a drill chuck for the tail stock, but I only have a drive spur for the head stock.  What is the best why to drill a hole in the end?  Do I just align the drill bit with the centre hole on the spindle and keep the drive spur in the head stock and then turn on the lathe and start advancing the drill bit...

 

This certainly sounds like an accident waiting to happen.  And if not, you will probably not get a good, clean hole.

 

Do you have a face plate that you can mount the stock to?

 

But the best option is the 4 jaw chuck.  Will this fit your lathe:

 

http://www.mrwoodturner.co.za/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=42_161&products_id=2304

 

I see it comes with a 3/4" 16 tpi adapter.

 

Or this one, even cheaper (also with the adapter) but just a 3 jaw chuck:

 

http://www.mrwoodturner.co.za/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=42_161&products_id=2150

[CJ Van]

This certainly sounds like an accident waiting to happen.  And if not, you will probably not get a good, clean hole.

 

Do you have a face plate that you can mount the stock to?

 

But the best option is the 4 jaw chuck.  Will this fit your lathe:

 

http://www.mrwoodturner.co.za/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=42_161&products_id=2304

 

I see it comes with a 3/4" 16 tpi adapter.

 

Or this one, even cheaper (also with the adapter) but just a 3 jaw chuck:

 

http://www.mrwoodturner.co.za/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=42_161&products_id=2150

 

Thanks Corneel, I thought I might be on to something here that will kill me.

 

I do have a face plate but the first holes on the plate is not close enough for the width of my stock.  Best option will then be to glue some more wood to one end of my stock square up the end and mount that to the faceplate. 

 

The 3/4" 16 tpi adapter with that chuck should work on my lathe as well.  If I don’t find any joy with the face plate will invest in that 4 jaw chuck.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

A quick snap shot of the works, I do not want to mention the project location or show more pics for now as we are presenting this snag list to the contractor and are awaiting his remedial works methodology and proposals.

HFS that's horrible. 

[kosmonooit]

yup can't see what can be done to fix that mess except some veneer maybe?

 

One of my clients who recently re-built a house from basically scratch and paid vast amounts of $$ to building contractor who built this feature stairway that was open from one side with glass, stairs were then covered in laminate / engineered wood, the issue was that most of the built stairs were not plumb nor square no symmetrical and the covering only accentuated this - very obvious to me looking at it side on, and I pointed it out at the time to the customer when the builders and fitters were still there, she could not really see it and Mr Smooth Talker builder fudged his way out of it, he brought out his level and faked a few measurements but it was as clear as daylight to me.....  it would bug me forever if it was my house or my job.

 

Having an eye for straight and plumb can be seen as a disability in this part of the world.

[carrera4s]

Thanks Corneel, I thought I might be on to something here that will kill me.

 

I do have a face plate but the first holes on the plate is not close enough for the width of my stock.  Best option will then be to glue some more wood to one end of my stock square up the end and mount that to the faceplate. 

 

The 3/4" 16 tpi adapter with that chuck should work on my lathe as well.  If I don’t find any joy with the face plate will invest in that 4 jaw chuck.

 

 

Hi CJ,

 

See this picture I saw today.   You can read the article here:

 

https://knowledge.axminster.co.uk/turning-a-london-pattern-octagonal-handle/

 

 

[CJ Van]

Hi CJ,

 

See this picture I saw today.   You can read the article here:

 

https://knowledge.axminster.co.uk/turning-a-london-pattern-octagonal-handle/

 

 

4.Drilling-hole-for-tang.jpg

 

 

Thanks for the link Corneel.

 

Some feedback regarding drilling a hole with a drive spur at the headstock.  If you secure the drive spur into the wood nicely, set the lathe to the lowest speed and start the drill bit in a small pilot hole in the centre of the wood you get a nice straight hole.  Do this before you start tuning down your piece.  If the drill bit drifts slightly off centre is does not matter because you will then use that hole to for the live centre when turning your piece. 

 

I did not do this with 2 of the pieces and only drilled the hole after I turned it and the drill bit drifted slightly off centre.  The last piece I drilled the hole first and it came out perfect. 

 

Also, do not use a forstner drill bit that requires you to back off and clear some of the wood chips as this will cause the piece to come loose from the drive spur. 

 

Some things that I have learned in my short time behind a lathe:

• Don’t think that if you have turned 2 pieces off wood that you have the hang of this and then dive in to your project with the nice hardwood you do not have a lot of.  Practice some more.
• It takes some time to get the wood to almost the correct dimension, after that it takes no time at all to take off too much wood.  Sneak up to the dimensions you want.
• You cannot put the wood back on after you have taken off too much.  Refer to point 2, sneak up on your final dimensions.
• Measure twice, cut once.
• The right tool for the job is the right tool for the job.  You can wing it with a different tool but that comes at a cost.
• If you are not to skilled in the art of wood turning, you need a lot of sand paper.  A lot of sand paper will still give you a good finish.

 

I will post a picture of attempt at wood turning after Monday.  PhilipV is not allowed to se his birthday present before Monday.

Edited November 15, 2019 by CJ Van

[carrera4s]

 

I will post a picture of attempt at wood turning after Monday.  PhilipV is not allowed to se his birthday present before Monday.

 

Any pics yet CJ?

[Hairy]

found this interesting

 

[CJ Van]

Any pics yet CJ?

 

I forgot to take some photos of the whole process.  I only have this one of the stock pieces before I started.  I used some left-over oak pieces from a wine barrel that I got about 7 years ago for a project.  I also had some off cuts from a sleeper that was cut into planks that I made shelfs from for my sister.  If anybody can tell me what wood this is that would be great.  It looks like Panga Panga or Wenge but I’m not sure it they ever used that wood for sleepers.  The last piece was from a few planks I got from my uncle that he brought with him from Zimbabwe about 20 or more years ago.  It looks like Teak to me, someone might be able to confirm this.

 

 

 

The end result after way too many swear words…….

 

 

 

 

This is by no means perfect and I still need a lot more practice on the lathe.  I will definitely buy a 4 jaw chuck in the future to make this type of projects a little easier.

 

PhilipV can post some more pics with better lighting if he gets around to it.

[PhilipV]

PhilipV can post some more pics with better lighting if he gets around to it.

Edited November 22, 2019 by PhilipV

[ichnusa]

Lovely

[DJR]

I forgot to take some photos of the whole process.  I only have this one of the stock pieces before I started.  I used some left-over oak pieces from a wine barrel that I got about 7 years ago for a project.  I also had some off cuts from a sleeper that was cut into planks that I made shelfs from for my sister.  If anybody can tell me what wood this is that would be great.  It looks like Panga Panga or Wenge but I’m not sure it they ever used that wood for sleepers.  The last piece was from a few planks I got from my uncle that he brought with him from Zimbabwe about 20 or more years ago.  It looks like Teak to me, someone might be able to confirm this...............

Very stylish! 

[Rocket-Boy]

Thanks Corneel, I thought I might be on to something here that will kill me.

 

I do have a face plate but the first holes on the plate is not close enough for the width of my stock.  Best option will then be to glue some more wood to one end of my stock square up the end and mount that to the faceplate. 

 

The 3/4" 16 tpi adapter with that chuck should work on my lathe as well.  If I don’t find any joy with the face plate will invest in that 4 jaw chuck.

I think Corneel covered it nicely, you really need a chuck for most turning so its not a bad idea getting one sooner rather than later.

I have one of these from Strand: https://www.strandhardware.co.za/4-jaw-self-centering-chuck-100mm

Its great because it has all of the jaw kits, it should just be a case of getting a 3/4" to 1" adapter from mr woodturner for it.

 

You can use a faceplate and glue block to do that kind of turning, its a pain to setup but can do the job just fine.

[Rocket-Boy]

Hi CJ,

 

See this picture I saw today.   You can read the article here:

 

https://knowledge.axminster.co.uk/turning-a-london-pattern-octagonal-handle/

 

 

4.Drilling-hole-for-tang.jpg

I have done that with a chisel handle I was making on my little midi lathe, its not something I recommend for anyone who is inexperienced. I still think your chuck advice is the best way to go!

[Rocket-Boy]

Thanks for the link Corneel.

 

Some feedback regarding drilling a hole with a drive spur at the headstock.  If you secure the drive spur into the wood nicely, set the lathe to the lowest speed and start the drill bit in a small pilot hole in the centre of the wood you get a nice straight hole.  Do this before you start tuning down your piece.  If the drill bit drifts slightly off centre is does not matter because you will then use that hole to for the live centre when turning your piece. 

 

I did not do this with 2 of the pieces and only drilled the hole after I turned it and the drill bit drifted slightly off centre.  The last piece I drilled the hole first and it came out perfect. 

 

Also, do not use a forstner drill bit that requires you to back off and clear some of the wood chips as this will cause the piece to come loose from the drive spur. 

 

Some things that I have learned in my short time behind a lathe:

• Don’t think that if you have turned 2 pieces off wood that you have the hang of this and then dive in to your project with the nice hardwood you do not have a lot of.  Practice some more.
• It takes some time to get the wood to almost the correct dimension, after that it takes no time at all to take off too much wood.  Sneak up to the dimensions you want.
• You cannot put the wood back on after you have taken off too much.  Refer to point 2, sneak up on your final dimensions.
• Measure twice, cut once.
• The right tool for the job is the right tool for the job.  You can wing it with a different tool but that comes at a cost.
• If you are not to skilled in the art of wood turning, you need a lot of sand paper.  A lot of sand paper will still give you a good finish.

 

I will post a picture of attempt at wood turning after Monday.  PhilipV is not allowed to se his birthday present before Monday.

 

Also remember that there is no shame in using the 60 grit gouge if making cuts will get you in trouble!!

 

It gets a lot easier after a while, turning is still my first love in woodworking and Im really enjoying it again lately.