Post your woodwork here

[eccc whippet]

Hi Steven,

 

I updated my post with the two links:

To Enter:  https://www.tools4wood.co.za/competitions/?mc_cid=f35d5985a5&mc_eid=7cbffc653f

My Entry:  https://www.facebook.com/Tools4wood/posts/2012288822223776

i see you winning hands down

[eccc whippet]

i am busy building a deck...first time...when you cut the poles...what do you seal the cut parts with?

 

 I am using H4 treated gum poles (or so the shop which supplied them said)

Edited February 4, 2019 by eccc whippet

[kosmonooit]

i am busy building a deck...first time...when you cut the poles...what do you seal the cut parts with?

 

 I am using H4 treated gum poles (or so the shop which supplied them said)

 

Creosote is one option = pongs for a while but settles down

[bertusras]

i see you winning hands down

 

Not when you're competing against a bunch of hockey moms it appears. Which is such a shame.

[eccc whippet]

Not when you're competing against a bunch of hockey moms it appears. Which is such a shame.

i see what you mean...it is a shame...come on bikehub...that table deserves a win...support this man. 

[Ed-Zulu]

i am busy building a deck...first time...when you cut the poles...what do you seal the cut parts with?

 

 I am using H4 treated gum poles (or so the shop which supplied them said)

H4 CCA treated is already rated for ground contact.

 

However, like Kosmonooit advises, some creosote on the cut ends wont do any harm

[stefmeister]

Tools4wood have started a competition to win some Sjoberg goodies. Go check it out.

 

Edit: The link to enter the competition:

 

https://www.tools4wood.co.za/competitions/?mc_cid=f35d5985a5&mc_eid=7cbffc653f

 

The entry with the most likes win the competition.

 

And please go like my pool table entry.

 

Edit: The link to my entry: https://www.facebook.com/Tools4wood/posts/2012288822223776

Voted/Liked.

 

Well deserved!

Edited February 5, 2019 by stefmeister

[Ispeed_V]

I know some of you might not consider this woodwork but its mostly wood and I am proud of it. My toppie and I built this tree house/boy cave for my lighties.

 

Almost done. Just need to finish sealing some of the wood and a few small things here and there. Going to be putting power and lights in as well. The blue slide had some bubbles in the gel coating so I returned it and they gave me the option of the red one as well. My oldest loves red so went with it.

Capture24.PNG

 

Awesome work - my lightie  has also been begging for the same

[Rocket-Boy]

*snip*

More like tree mansion! good job on that, looks great.

[Long Wheel Base]

Awesome work - my lightie  has also been begging for the same

Do it!!! It took me a few months of only really weekends but you can buy "kits" that come in pieces and you put it together in your garden. I couldn't go that route as I didn't want it in the middle of my lawn and majority of the kits needed access from all 4 sides. 

[Rocket-Boy]

i see you winning hands down

As he definitely should be!

Im not sure which wins between mr Carerra being an amazingly nice guy and a super skilled woodworker.

Going to rope in some friends to get some more votes going, no doubt other people will create fake profiles to vote for themselves which is just plain wrong.

 

As an aside I had a friend who won a facebook comp requiring votes. Him and his wife took 2 days off work to create fake email addresses and register facebook accounts with it to vote for themselves. They won in the end but we arent friends anymore, I can never accept cheating like that.

[Long Wheel Base]

More like tree mansion! good job on that, looks great.

LOL. The floor is 3.0x2.8. The bottom of the floor is 1.85 from the ground(so most adults can stand up in the ground level area) and then the front truss is about 1.6 from top of the floor(the floor is quite thick with the pole and really thick floor planks). Most adults need to duck under the middle truss but the front truss is positioned so you still leaning from climbing up the ramp or ducking to go down the slide(slide is 3m long and is meant to sit 1.6 from the ground so that's why I had to raise the bottom of the slide a bit with sand). From ground level to top of the roof is about 4.5m

[eccc whippet]

looks like the hockey team is gona win   

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

looks like the hockey team is gona win   

 

Unfortunately these are popularity contests and absolutely nothing to do with what is being voted for.

Welcome to our society.....

[carrera4s]

looks like the hockey team is gona win   

 

No worries!

 

Also remember, the second prize is not determined by the second most votes, tools4wood will decide which one they like most for the second prize.

 

So everyone should enter, maybe they like yours the best!

 

1. The competition runs from 1st of February to the 28th of February 2019. One winner will be decided by the number of reactions (ie likes, smiley faces, etc) on the Facebook Post. Comments and Shares are not counted. If you are not happy with this judging criteria please do not enter. The second winner will be decided by Tools4Wood on the basis of the one we like the most.

Edited February 6, 2019 by carrera4s

[carrera4s]

You get intense projects, and then you get ridiculously intense. I don't know that I'd ever repeat this little exercise, but there were good learnings (like never countersink screws if you're trying to adjust drawer faces).

 

So this is for a jolly good Hubber, who has recently be doing some sharp posts on this thread.

 

It's a hackle chest, which is how fly-fishermen (I'm probably using all the wrong terms) keep the feathers, fur and other dingly-dangly bits for tying flies. 

 

The only electric tools used were the tablesaw and router. (My old Metabo circular saw - used in a Triton 2000 - had to go for its first bearings and brushes since 1997. It's been a hardworking beast, but is so old it brought all the staff out to look )

 

Everything else was done by hand with the trusty old Stanley 4 and 5, my chisels (including a ridiculously useful 3.5mm Milnerton market find), even the old egg-beater drill (it was the only thing that fitted in the drawers for drilling). I'd probably have used a thicknesser if I had one; that would have made life easier.

 

It's walnut, with beech drawer carcasses and 3mm birch ply bottoms. I think there are around 200 hand-cut dovetails. It's mainly glued with bone pearl glue. Um, what else ...

 

I bought the brass corners from a tucked-away place with a funny name in Paarden Eiland, but all the other brasswork was cut and filed by hand.

 

It's sealed with Danish Oil, with a final coat of beeswax. 

 

The doors slide out of pockets in the side, and then swing around to close. I originally fitted a lock but all the miniature cabinet hardware is really *** and weak. A cup of tea brought the answer of the drop-down brass latches; you open the doors by sliding a piece of paper or credit card under the door. 

 

The drawer fronts are largely bookmatched. Each had to be carefully handsawn (1mm kerf vs 2.5mm on the tablesaw) so the grain still kept a good match over the front. Bum-clenching stuff; one slip would be a whole remake.

 

All in all, about 200 hours went into this. Well actually, more like 300, but that was because it took me a while    to figure out that a small dry blob of glue on my square put all my measurements out.  Also, always trust your gut: when I put the drawer runners in, the top rocked slightly but I didn't think much of it. Turned out there was a slight curve due to the rain, so the dovetailed corners wouldn't fit. So that all had to be recut and remade.

 

Hi LeTurbo - please go enter the tools4wood competition!