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Posted (edited)

If you dont already have one, then a trim router is a fantastic tool. I use mine way more than my big router these days and they are very easy to make morticing jigs etc for.

 

Is that an Amazon echo on the other shelf?

We have one in the kitchen and my wife uses it daily to set timers when cooking or to turn lights on and off. Very useful little things.

 

I have the little Makita RT0700 router. It's a trim router with a few different bases (one of which being a plunge base). Super versatile, and decent value for money.

 

57024576cb5ac_cx3kit.thumb.jpg.a1f396500

 

As for the little doo-hicky on the shelf, it's a Google Home mini with a battery base for portability.

 

Google-Home-Essentials-Kiwi-Design-Batte

 

It was replaced by the Sonos, which now performs the smart speaker functions in the kitchen (Google or Alexa, depending on how you set it up).

 

But yeah, as you say, useful for setting timers, reminders, adding things to shopping lists while one is looking onto the pantry/fridge.

 

I also had a Google Home Hub (the one with the screen) in the kitchen for the missus to look up recipes etc. But she prefers delving into one of her hundreds of cookbooks, so I reassigned the hub to my bedside table.

Edited by patches
Posted

Got myself a little Creality Ender 3 v2 over the December break, as my firs foray into 3D printing.

 

So far I'd compare the experience to restoring and driving a classic car. The tinkering and tweaking can be fun at times, but at others the little glitches can be frustrating as one struggles to troubleshoot.

 

Thingiverse, CHEP, Teaching Teach and All3DP have been invaluable. I have also gone down the modding rabbit hole (probably why I spend so much time troubleshooting) with a dual gear extruder, relocated filament spool holder, and a BL Touch (still on its way)

 

Here are a few of my woodworking related 3D prints.

 

post-10758-0-62861200-1610311670_thumb.jpg

The little Ender printing the obligatory 20mm test cube to check my calibration skills.

 

post-10758-0-64420600-1610311745_thumb.jpg

Printed a bracket to relocate the spool holder (Thingiverse).

 

post-10758-0-27885300-1610311795_thumb.jpg

Printing some little accessories for my Makita track saw rail. Router attachments, and travel stops (all Thingiverse).

 

post-10758-0-37591500-1610311875_thumb.jpg

Travel stops assembled and installed on the rail.

 

Then I got brave and delved into some Fusion360. It was very easy to pick-up as I have about 15years on Autodesk Inventor experience, and Fusion is just a more user friendly, watered down, and free (for hobby use) derivative of that. I also forgot how much fun modelling is. Over the years I have moved from doing to dictating, and it's good to be back "on the tools".

 

So I dusted off my verniers and modelled up a mounting bracket for my AEG 18V tools, based on measurements of tool and battery.

 

post-10758-0-17603000-1610312168_thumb.jpg

The first draft of the Fusion 360 model.

 

Then it was time to print the prototype.

 

post-10758-0-29254900-1610312240_thumb.jpg

(I need to double check my bed levelling as my ironing settings seem a little off and I'm getting some little dimples. Hopefully the BL Touch will sort that out)

 

And finally, the practical test...

 

post-10758-0-23312700-1610312316_thumb.jpg

 

post-10758-0-89269200-1610312342_thumb.jpg

 

It fits and would easily hold the tools once wall mounted. However I could refine the tolerances. and my thumbsuck at that side arc/filler was a little off.

 

Overall, not a bad first attempt, I think. I'll do some tweaking and hopefully improve.

 

Posted

Got myself a little Creality Ender 3 v2 over the December break, as my firs foray into 3D printing.

 

So far I'd compare the experience to restoring and driving a classic car. The tinkering and tweaking can be fun at times, but at others the little glitches can be frustrating as one struggles to troubleshoot.

 

Thingiverse, CHEP, Teaching Teach and All3DP have been invaluable. I have also gone down the modding rabbit hole (probably why I spend so much time troubleshooting) with a dual gear extruder, relocated filament spool holder, and a BL Touch (still on its way)

 

Here are a few of my woodworking related 3D prints.

 

attachicon.gif20201226_064643.jpg

The little Ender printing the obligatory 20mm test cube to check my calibration skills.

 

attachicon.gif20210105_203612.jpg

Printed a bracket to relocate the spool holder (Thingiverse).

 

attachicon.gif20201227_062358.jpg

Printing some little accessories for my Makita track saw rail. Router attachments, and travel stops (all Thingiverse).

 

attachicon.gif20210104_152240.jpg

Travel stops assembled and installed on the rail.

 

Then I got brave and delved into some Fusion360. It was very easy to pick-up as I have about 15years on Autodesk Inventor experience, and Fusion is just a more user friendly, watered down, and free (for hobby use) derivative of that. I also forgot how much fun modelling is. Over the years I have moved from doing to dictating, and it's good to be back "on the tools".

 

So I dusted off my verniers and modelled up a mounting bracket for my AEG 18V tools, based on measurements of tool and battery.

 

attachicon.gifIMG-20210109-WA0003.jpg

The first draft of the Fusion 360 model.

 

Then it was time to print the prototype.

 

attachicon.gifIMG-20210109-WA0004.jpg

(I need to double check my bed levelling as my ironing settings seem a little off and I'm getting some little dimples. Hopefully the BL Touch will sort that out)

 

And finally, the practical test...

 

attachicon.gifIMG-20210109-WA0005.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG-20210109-WA0006.jpg

 

It fits and would easily hold the tools once wall mounted. However I could refine the tolerances. and my thumbsuck at that side arc/filler was a little off.

 

Overall, not a bad first attempt, I think. I'll do some tweaking and hopefully improve.

Its hard to resist upgrading right from the start with a new printer. I printed out all of the enhancements but avoided hardware upgrades for the first month or two to get everything running well.

 

Teaching tech is great with how-to guides on modifications, Angus from Makers Muse is really good with designs and non-hardware related tips.

 

AT the end of the day though, bed leveling is the most important part, you dont need to do it very often and when you have the bltouch fitted it will be an absolute breeze.

Posted

Its hard to resist upgrading right from the start with a new printer. I printed out all of the enhancements but avoided hardware upgrades for the first month or two to get everything running well.

 

Teaching tech is great with how-to guides on modifications, Angus from Makers Muse is really good with designs and non-hardware related tips.

 

AT the end of the day though, bed leveling is the most important part, you dont need to do it very often and when you have the bltouch fitted it will be an absolute breeze.

With regards to bed levelling, I find that a business card works better to set nozzle height. I move the print head manually across the print bed to avoid hitting the bed on the first levelling passes. I then start bed levelling print and manually adjust bed height until I'm happy with the print. Takes a while to do, but I enjoy tinkering so I will hold of with a BLtouch for now. 

Posted

With regards to bed levelling, I find that a business card works better to set nozzle height. I move the print head manually across the print bed to avoid hitting the bed on the first levelling passes. I then start bed levelling print and manually adjust bed height until I'm happy with the print. Takes a while to do, but I enjoy tinkering so I will hold of with a BLtouch for now. 

I still dont have a BLtouch, I dont really see a the need for one. I level once every few prints and most times dont need to change anything.

I did have a really hard time levelling at first though because there wasnt space on the stock image with the Ender 5 to have the head move to the mesh positions and when you disabled steppers then the bed would drop.

Upgrading to Marlin and disabling the boot splash screen gave enough space to enable the feature and its been easy since then.

Posted (edited)

With regards to bed levelling, I find that a business card works better to set nozzle height. I move the print head manually across the print bed to avoid hitting the bed on the first levelling passes. I then start bed levelling print and manually adjust bed height until I'm happy with the print. Takes a while to do, but I enjoy tinkering so I will hold of with a BLtouch for now.

 

Yeah I use a similar method, but with 80gsm paper. It seems to find just the right amount off "squish".

 

I still dont have a BLtouch, I dont really see a the need for one. I level once every few prints and most times dont need to change anything.

I did have a really hard time levelling at first though because there wasnt space on the stock image with the Ender 5 to have the head move to the mesh positions and when you disabled steppers then the bed would drop.

Upgrading to Marlin and disabling the boot splash screen gave enough space to enable the feature and its been easy since then.

The BL Touch is only really essential when one has a warped bed. I'm just lazy ave like gadgets.

 

The first time I leveled the bed (paper and disable steppers etc) it was fairly straight forward. But then I upgraded the bed springs to the heavier duty yellow ones. Leveling that was a nightmare and I ended up going back to the stock springs.

 

As for Marlin, have you seen the Aussie guy who rebuilds firmware daily and makes it available for a small fee of 10 USD/yr.

 

https://marlin.crc.id.au/

Edited by patches
Posted

 

The BL Touch is only really essential when one has a warped bed. I'm just lazy ave like gadgets.

 

The first time I leveled the bed (paper and disable steppers etc) it was fairly straight forward. But then I upgraded the bed springs to the heavier duty yellow ones. Leveling that was a nightmare and I ended up going back to the stock springs.

 

As for Marlin, have you seen the Aussie guy who rebuilds firmware daily and makes it available for a small fee of 10 USD/yr.

 

https://marlin.crc.id.au/

I havent but that could be really cool for a lot of users.

Im very comfortable with Arduino code and built a lot of IoT projects with it, so its not such a bit deal to me.

At some stage I will upgrade to a better board and possibly an enclosure if PETG doesnt meet my requirements anymore. I initially wanted to use the printer as stock to eliminate any possible issues relating to mods, its done well so far but there is always a bit more you can squeeze from Creality printers!

 

Im actually quite keen on adapting a system like the CR-6 SE has, it has a limit type switch that the hotend is mounted to so it would be compatible with all hotend's.

Posted

I think this would be the right thread to ask.

 

We have an old buffet cabinet thingy that we inherited. The one door used to hinge down with a bracket thingy-ma-bob to stop it at the 90deg mark. basically a drink cupboard with the door acting as a table. to many years of people putting to much pressure on that door pulling the screws out of the hinges has left the wood around the hinge area a total mess.

 

I now want to put on a hinge system that sees the door staying parallel to the rest of the cabinet, but with the door lifting upwards.

something like this

gimify-hanging-cabinet-door-vertical-swi

 

A few questions.

Will something like thing work with a door that fit inside the cabinet instead of sitting on the outside ?

Where can i get these things ? tried a few commercial hardware stores in the are but they had a very limited range of hinges.

Posted

I think this would be the right thread to ask.

 

We have an old buffet cabinet thingy that we inherited. The one door used to hinge down with a bracket thingy-ma-bob to stop it at the 90deg mark. basically a drink cupboard with the door acting as a table. to many years of people putting to much pressure on that door pulling the screws out of the hinges has left the wood around the hinge area a total mess.

 

I now want to put on a hinge system that sees the door staying parallel to the rest of the cabinet, but with the door lifting upwards.

something like this

gimify-hanging-cabinet-door-vertical-swi

 

A few questions.

Will something like thing work with a door that fit inside the cabinet instead of sitting on the outside ?

Where can i get these things ? tried a few commercial hardware stores in the are but they had a very limited range of hinges.

Chat to Grass or Blum

https://www.blum.com/za/en/

https://www.grass.at/1427.html?L=1

Posted

I think this would be the right thread to ask.

 

We have an old buffet cabinet thingy that we inherited. The one door used to hinge down with a bracket thingy-ma-bob to stop it at the 90deg mark. basically a drink cupboard with the door acting as a table. to many years of people putting to much pressure on that door pulling the screws out of the hinges has left the wood around the hinge area a total mess.

 

I now want to put on a hinge system that sees the door staying parallel to the rest of the cabinet, but with the door lifting upwards.

something like this

gimify-hanging-cabinet-door-vertical-swi

 

A few questions.

Will something like thing work with a door that fit inside the cabinet instead of sitting on the outside ?

Where can i get these things ? tried a few commercial hardware stores in the are but they had a very limited range of hinges.

Leroy Merlin or Gelmar both have what you need

Posted

I think this would be the right thread to ask.

 

We have an old buffet cabinet thingy that we inherited. The one door used to hinge down with a bracket thingy-ma-bob to stop it at the 90deg mark. basically a drink cupboard with the door acting as a table. to many years of people putting to much pressure on that door pulling the screws out of the hinges has left the wood around the hinge area a total mess.

 

I now want to put on a hinge system that sees the door staying parallel to the rest of the cabinet, but with the door lifting upwards.

something like this

gimify-hanging-cabinet-door-vertical-swi

 

A few questions.

Will something like thing work with a door that fit inside the cabinet instead of sitting on the outside ?

Where can i get these things ? tried a few commercial hardware stores in the are but they had a very limited range of hinges.

Blum make REALLY nice hidden internal hinges that do what you are looking for.

Im not sure which distributors have them in your area but these are the contact details for Blum SA.

 

Blum South Africa (PTY) Ltd.

212 Katherine Street (16 Bowling Avenue)

Kramerville, Sandton

WENDYWOOD/JOHANNESBURG 2144

SOUTH AFRICA

 
Posted (edited)

1 - yes, the door can be inside the opening instead of outside it, it's just a matter of positioning the brackets correctly and having the right size door. 

 

2: Very nice brackets, but I think they're a bit pricy. 

 

EDIT: Links up above have better options, prolly. 

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32787804749.html

Edited by Captain Fastbastard Mayhem
Posted

I think this would be the right thread to ask.

 

We have an old buffet cabinet thingy that we inherited. The one door used to hinge down with a bracket thingy-ma-bob to stop it at the 90deg mark. basically a drink cupboard with the door acting as a table. to many years of people putting to much pressure on that door pulling the screws out of the hinges has left the wood around the hinge area a total mess.

 

I now want to put on a hinge system that sees the door staying parallel to the rest of the cabinet, but with the door lifting upwards.

something like this

gimify-hanging-cabinet-door-vertical-swi

 

A few questions.

Will something like thing work with a door that fit inside the cabinet instead of sitting on the outside ?

Where can i get these things ? tried a few commercial hardware stores in the are but they had a very limited range of hinges.

You could go large .... we recently did high level units like that on a project with touch activated open/close motorised doors #JustSaying :P

 

Just make sure that all persons in your family can reach the door to pull it down again when in the open position.

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