Car maintenance

[Skylark]

Just phone your local supaquick beforehand to confirm they can work on your car model and keep in mind they don't replace drum pads.

[Pure Savage]

Tracker killed 2 x batteries in my wife's POlo - they are monsters.... Would drain it in a weekend....

 

The offending wire has been removed. When fracker pick it up on Monday will connect it back up

 

 

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[scotty]

I has an issue with my Colt where it was draining power. Initially thought it was a faulty battery so I replaced but it still continued. Moved to the alternator and had this replaced by auto electrician but still continued to lose charge. Took it back to auto elect and after keeping it for a week he blamed the battery. Finally took it to Colt and they diagnosed a fault in the starter where it was drawing current. Summary is I spent money that was not required on new battery and alternator. 

[GrumpyOldGuy]

As far as 

 

Brakes.... I do my own DIY here. Alfa Disks with either ATE or Ferrodo pads. Nothing else. (Except for the OEM pads for my wife's Audi to resolve a clicking noise upon applying the brakes. Brakes worked fine but the noise bugged me. Changed from the Motorrite pads that were fitted when we got it to the OEM Audi pads and the noise went away...)

 

Tried cheap pads that promised no dust but they ended up eating discs. I don't buy "housebrand" items either no matter what story the salesman spins me. 

 

Generally speaking, you get what you pay for and I'm not saving a rand or two when it comes to brakes...

 

 

Indeed, if memory serves me, ATE is actually the OEM supplier to Alfa.  

 

In car parts and service "you get what you pay for" is a fact, as I said before official manufacturers dealers here get a bad rap, but in reality the dealers have to stick to a product standard, the aftermarket industry does not, and this is important to remember.

 

A dealer will only sell the manufacturers approved product which will always be of a high standard, however the aftermarket industry can sell what they like, and if you dont know what you are buying, or having fitted, its very easy to end up with something totally unsuitable and inferior.

Edited June 29, 2016 by GrumpyOldGuy

[GrumpyOldGuy]

I has an issue with my Colt where it was draining power. Initially thought it was a faulty battery so I replaced but it still continued. Moved to the alternator and had this replaced by auto electrician but still continued to lose charge. Took it back to auto elect and after keeping it for a week he blamed the battery. Finally took it to Colt and they diagnosed a fault in the starter where it was drawing current. Summary is I spent money that was not required on new battery and alternator. 

Indeed Scotty, a perfect example of getting the correct expertise, dealers have the correct manufacturers scan tools to diagnose faults specific to the manufacturers vehicle, plus they likely see the same faults regularly as they deal specifically with those cars, anyone can do an oil change, but try diagnosing a fault in a computer controlled auto box without the right scan tools! 

Edited June 29, 2016 by GrumpyOldGuy

[Skylark]

Dealers normally have the expertise and correct tooling, not always, the amount of scary stories I have heard about dealers, even flagship German brands, cocking it all up for months on end.

 

The workshops at some dealers are not far removed from back yard mechanics. I'd take a trusted independent mechanic anyday, for out of warranty work that is.

[intern]

Interesting thread.

I've got an old E70 X5; I've recently decided to do the maintenance myself for a few reasons, one of which is that it is satisfying to take good care of your own things (I do this with my boat, too).

In terms of scan tools, you can get a Bluetooth module (ELM327) which plugs into your OBDII socket and then synchs with an app on your phone (called Torque). This will provide all sorts of readouts from the engine, like RPM, various pressures, acceleration, etc. It will also tell you about any faults. Pretty handy. The module costs about R200 I spose, and you can get it on eBay or Amazon; the app, another R200 or so.

So that gives you the ability to check and clear engine fault codes.

The rest of the stuff, oil, plugs, even ignition coils, brakes, what have you, is actually pretty easy to sort out. And if you don't know how, YouTube shows you...

[cfcjim]

Interesting thread.

I've got an old E70 X5; I've recently decided to do the maintenance myself for a few reasons, one of which is that it is satisfying to take good care of your own things (I do this with my boat, too).

In terms of scan tools, you can get a Bluetooth module (ELM327) which plugs into your OBDII socket and then synchs with an app on your phone (called Torque). This will provide all sorts of readouts from the engine, like RPM, various pressures, acceleration, etc. It will also tell you about any faults. Pretty handy. The module costs about R200 I spose, and you can get it on eBay or Amazon; the app, another R200 or so.

So that gives you the ability to check and clear engine fault codes.

The rest of the stuff, oil, plugs, even ignition coils, brakes, what have you, is actually pretty easy to sort out. And if you don't know how, YouTube shows you...

Problem with the ELM327 is in only scans and (not always) resets the generic OBDII codes (DTCs).

 

For example it can't read or clear gearbox and ABS faults. I expect you have the ZF 6HP26 gearbox in your vehicle, the ELM327 cannot clear any of the transmission specific DTCs.

 

But as you mention you can observe a bunch of parameters which may help with diagnoses.

 

The iCarsoft i910 is the best value and most sophisticated. Although not super cheap (around the R2000 mark).

 

I have an i930 which works on both my Land Rover D3 and D4 and older models plus it can scan and clear the generic DTCs on other vehicle makes.

[Pure Savage]

Update on battery, no issues now that the tracker is chilling in the corner not connected.

Edited June 30, 2016 by Pure Savage

[Rocket-Boy]

 

A 2 year battery failure is not normal, no matter what equipment is fitted.

That is not true, my wife had a crappy alarm system fitted to her car after the factory one died, it kept draining the battery to the point where the car wouldn't start. That kills a battery very quickly, they are not meant to be fully discharged like that.

[Long Wheel Base]

Never believe a car dealership when it comes to brakes. VW told me from 60k that they needed replacing, i took them to a ferobrake shop and the mechanic - after getting all the parts out to replace - told me he cannot in his right mind replace anything as none of it needs replacing anytime soon. I only ended up replacing the brakes after 120k, and yes i went back to the honest ferobrake guy!

Have a work colleague that used to work for VW as a mechanic and he said he often used to see guys change parts(brakes especially) that still had life in them and the parts went onto their personal vehicles. He said he was glad he drove a mazda at that stage and no one could point fingers at him........

[RocknRolla]

Grumpy, I have had the opposite experience with dealers.

On my motorcycle, while under warrantee, the bike had flat spots at weird stages, after being at the dealer twice, they "updated software" which in fact did not sort out the problem.

 

After taking to the internet, I got advised to check and clean the mass airflow sensor, when I got the the sensor, I found it to be loose, half dropping down out of the airbox. Thus making the computer give wrong throttle info .

 

The second time when booking the bike in, I advised the service manager about the possibility of the maf sensor "that i read about on the internet"

 

From then, I undertook all maintenance and repair work myself along with the internet and youtube.

 

Same with my Subaru vehicle.

I have not had any reassuring service from the dealers, and to be honest the fora, and dedicated YouTube channels are a plenty, with help available virtually 24 hour support.

 

The only thing one has to have, is the ability to sift through relevant info, and discard the nonsense, or unrelated stuff.

 

Anyhow, my new little city car has been going to dealer exclusively, due to warrantee, and it being new enough not to have any issues.

[Long Wheel Base]

Just phone your local supaquick beforehand to confirm they can work on your car model and keep in mind they don't replace drum pads.

You mean brake shoes?

If the rear(or front as well in the old beetles) has drum brakes then the "pad" on the inside is called a brake shoe.

I wonder why they wont replace those? Yes its a dirtier, slightly tougher job but still an easy job.

[Grebel]

You mean brake shoes?

If the rear(or front as well in the old beetles) has drum brakes then the "pad" on the inside is called a brake shoe.

I wonder why they wont replace those? Yes its a dirtier, slightly tougher job but still an easy job.

 

Have you ever tried to re-assemble one of the things after the springs and clips have jumped off before you have had a chance to memorize their locations?!?

[Long Wheel Base]

Have you ever tried to re-assemble one of the things after the springs and clips have jumped off before you have had a chance to memorize their locations?!?

Sadly yes  , must admit it involved lots of swearing. That was the last time I made that mistake. I drive a bakkie so still have to deal with drums .

[Grebel]

Sadly yes  , must admit it involved lots of swearing. That was the last time I made that mistake. I drive a bakkie so still have to deal with drums .

 

I feel your pain.... Did brake shoes and slaves a few weeks back on my Frontier. Had issues with the clips and springs and when I finally got it all clipped back in I realised that I hadn't connected the handbrake cable.....