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removal of pedals by spark erosion


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Posted

If ever I have read a *** statement, this has to be it. 

Think what he meant to say is if you have eagle cranks chuck them away...

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Posted

To loosen, turn towards the back wheel, i.e drive side is counter-clockwise while non-drive side is clockwise.

 

Pedals always tighten in the same direction as the bike moves... towards the front

 

 

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That's good.

 

I still remember the righty tighty lefty loosy. Then for pedals i just add right (side) is right and left wrong.

Posted

I've seen this way too often & willing to bet money that it's being turned the wrong way.

nope you wrong - 25 years of cycling and changing pedals from my road to a track bike and vice versa. i've stopped 'track' so havent swopped these pedals for a few years. early morning training rides in the winter near the sea has also contributed. it just needs a little (big) whack but i dont have the tools and vice for a DIY.

Posted

nope you wrong - 25 years of cycling and changing pedals from my road to a track bike and vice versa. i've stopped 'track' so havent swopped these pedals for a few years. early morning training rides in the winter near the sea has also contributed. it just needs a little (big) whack but i dont have the tools and vice for a DIY.

aluminium corrosion is tricky to get undone - try dumping the whole pedal assembly in coca cola for a few days - threads must be submerged- might give you enough relief to get it undone. Otherwise visit an engineering shop- they are pretty good at removing stuck bolts- where are you based?
Posted

That's good.

 

I still remember the righty tighty lefty loosy. Then for pedals i just add right (side) is right and left wrong.

However one remembers is key. Lefty loosey, right tighty is also standard for me

 

But some gas fittings are opposite to ensure the right product is not mixed up... think the oyx-acetylene blow torch. For the rule there are a few exceptions.

 

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Posted

I must admit that I also thought about dumping the crank in all else fails. But I'll give it a good bash first.

Since you are ditching the pedals, why not strip the pedal off the axle, weld a stout piece of pipe to the axle (assuming it is steel) and then put the crank in a vice and put a pipe over the welded pipe and turn it.

Sommer soak the whole story overnight in coke hoping it breaks the bond before turning it in the vice.

Posted

I must admit that I also thought about dumping the crank in all else fails. But I'll give it a good bash first.

Since you are ditching the pedals, why not strip the pedal off the axle, weld a stout piece of pipe to the axle (assuming it is steel) and then put the crank in a vice and put a pipe over the welded pipe and turn it.

Sommer soak the whole story overnight in coke hoping it breaks the bond before turning it in the vice.

 

could even weld a LARGE nut over the pedal shaft .... big spanner, bench vice, and it should be easy enough ....

Posted

If ever I have read a *** statement, this has to be it.

Oh, I'm sorry you disagree with my opinion.

 

If it would seem that splitting an atom would be an easier task than getting some busted pedals off a crankset, then I'd cut my losses and bin the whole piece.

Posted

For some of us, solving a mechanical challenge is rewarding. Resorting to the standard consumerist " just bin it" approach has no appeal to many.

Ingenuity = Priceless ( to ironically rip off the Mastercard ad )

Posted

For some of us, solving a mechanical challenge is rewarding. Resorting to the standard consumerist " just bin it" approach has no appeal to many.

Ingenuity = Priceless ( to ironically rip off the Mastercard ad )

 

Mkay.

Posted

You don't need a blow torch. I have used a heat gun before. Gently warm up the crank, assuming it's Al and ensure you are removing the axle in the correct direction to undo it.

 

Prior to heating it I would have soaked the part in penetrating oil. I would use a breaker bar with the correct socket rather than an Allan key with a pipe on it. The reason is that with the warmed crank in a padded vice, as you put pressure on the breaker bar you can firmly tap the head of the breaker bar so as to shock the threads.

 

When you put your new pedals in please use copper slip, it is an anti sieze compound that will prevent just this issue

Posted

I wouldn't use a blow-torch...  The aluminium cranks are heat treated, hence you are bound to mess up the material properties if you apply loads of heat.

 

As they all said, get the crank arm in a vice and use a long lever.  LH pedal has a LH thread, so it goes wrong way round.  RH pedal has a normal RH thread, so that one turns the same direction as a bathroom tap

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