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I recently did a bike service for one of my friends. The Bike was due for major service and had to take the whole dual apart, the Bearings was the worst off in the bike, and a expensive exercise if you have to get them replaced.

So I did some research and phoned a few bike shops around the Grater Cape Town area. i could not get away for under R 1000 for a replacement set, which just adds up the $$$$ if there are more parts to replace.

 

I then searched the Bearing numbers and found the same bearings for a whole lot less and that fits my Pocket, So do Bike shops really make such a big Markup on the stock they sell to us and do we really need to spend that amount on bearings if you can buy the same set online for less.

 

i have attached some photos of the original bearings that came out of the frame.

 

 

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Pivot bearings are meant to be full complement. You can buy the cheap and cheerful Chinese or Indian made retainer variety from Bearing Man for a whole lot less, but you'll get exactly what you pay for.

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Pivot bearings are meant to be full complement. You can buy the cheap and cheerful Chinese or Indian made retainer variety from Bearing Man for a whole lot less, but you'll get exactly what you pay for.

 

but then, one CAN also buy top quality bearings from Bearing Man for a LOT less than what the big bike shops sell it.... ask for TIMKEN, SKF ...

 

 

I have bought many a bearing at West Cape Bearings - and they always ask if you want the cheapie, or need a quality unit.

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 Cheap out on wheel and Bb bearings and you'll be fine 

 

Rather get high quality for headset and pivots .... that said bearing shops also have the correct bearings for less still  :whistling:

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but then, one CAN also buy top quality bearings from Bearing Man for a LOT less than what the big bike shops sell it.... ask for TIMKEN, SKF ...

 

 

I have bought many a bearing at West Cape Bearings - and they always ask if you want the cheapie, or need a quality unit.

 

For wheels etc yes. Not pivots.

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For wheels etc yes. Not pivots.

Could the more mechanically inclined explain this?

 

So for pivots and headsets there is more force applied to the bearing hence we looking for a high quality bearing ie. harder metal? Or does it have to do with the seal?

 

From my unmechanical inclined logic I would have assumed with wheels and BB's the bearings spin at higher speeds compared to headsets and pivot bearings. So meaning less friction = better performance... but we can compromise on bearing quality?

 

Mweh... can't compute  :blink:

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Buy any SKF or Timken or any of the top brands and they will be perfect. I find the even the cheaper ones work great BUT the dust seals on them don't last as long and thus they fail quicker than the top brands. The Top brands at BMC or SKF will still be cheaper than at your LBS.

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Are all pivot bearings the same size for all frames?

No. Frames have specific bearings. Usually several different sizes. Can differ in the same model between years too.

 

Hubs also have different size bearings depending on the hub and freebody.

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For pivot bearings either go the cheap way at BMG or whoever you chose and replace often. The difference in their cheap and expensive isn't necessarily worth it as they likely to last similar times before dirt and water kill them.

 

Ideally though, you should replace pivot bearings with FULL COMPLEMENT bearing. (if you remove the rubber seal, the bearing race will be full of balls and have no retainer or spacer) Full complement distribute the loads etc better, but so far I haven't been able to source from local bearing outlets, as they are quite specialized. Last time I did a service I got some full  complement Enduro bearings from Droo, and they still going. I've used some cheapies too without problems, the Enduros look to be lasting better, especially for the smaller bearings.

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Could the more mechanically inclined explain this?

 

So for pivots and headsets there is more force applied to the bearing hence we looking for a high quality bearing ie. harder metal? Or does it have to do with the seal?

 

From my unmechanical inclined logic I would have assumed with wheels and BB's the bearings spin at higher speeds compared to headsets and pivot bearings. So meaning less friction = better performance... but we can compromise on bearing quality?

 

Mweh... can't compute  :blink:

 

JJACK

 

From what i understand is that the more Balls in the bearing the  the better load it can take. they say its for better oscillation, as pivot bearings only Pivot a small about, the balls take a greater load at a very small point.,and yes  they do have harder metal ratings on the balls,

I have see some of the bearings bike shops supply, yes some do supply the enduro brand and then you get some that don't,  the cheaper bearing might not last as long, but if you keep your bike clean, I am  sure the will live up to the standard, they bearings i replaced was not damage by use, but by dirt inside of the bearing, so yes some might have a dual lip seal ,which will help. but in reality  its the way you look after your bike. 

 

as for wheel bearings and BB bearings ect , these turn the way the bearings are designed to turn. but still i wont go to to cheap on this.as you need a good quality bearing, but don't have to be ripped off  by the shops.

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Simple answer here.  Pivot Bearings don't rotate 360 degrees.  They rotate FAAAAR less than that.  As a result, bearings are made specifically for this job.  They are made to handle less rotation and more side loads, and this deictates that the balls are "loose" inside the casing (called full compliment), this allows the balls to collect in the most loaded area  to ensure better useage. They last longer than "wheel" bearings in this situation.  If you are able to buy full compliment bearings at "Bearing" shop then buy them.  My personal rule has always been to buy the highest quality bearings I can.  This ensures that I can service them regularly and they don't corrode and so on.  Cheap bearings don't seal as well and aren't as smooth.  They rust quicker and develop play very early on, making them the expensive option in the long run, as removing them and installing new ones cost time!  Do it right, once!

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For wheels etc yes. Not pivots.

The place I go get my pivot bearings gave me a list of LBS'S that buy ALL their bearings there....

And the bearings are quality.

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The place I go get my pivot bearings gave me a list of LBS'S that buy ALL their bearings there....

And the bearings are quality.

and are you happy with the bearings, any failures?

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Also replaced all my bearing a week ago,  went with the cheap stuff from bearing agent, cost around R170. If I went with the brand bearing it would have been about R300, not much but need to cut the cost at the moment. I just made sure to cover them with grease on each side, although they do have the proper dust covers. 

 

Im  sure if I take proper care they should last or lets hope so. Whats weird is that the pics above show the bearings open or exposed. Shouldn't they have dust covers?

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Hi bomberman.

 

The dust seals were removed to show the exstend of where dirt will go in. And you can see the 2 types of bearings.

Keep me posted on how those bearings hold up

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