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Posted

You all seems to be pro oval.

I like the oval, but when I stand and padal it feels like there is a dead spot...exactly what the oval is supposed to remove. Anyone with the same experience?

I seldom stand , but do experience this when i do .

 

But I am pretty sure I had it with round to 

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Posted

Reviving old thread.

 

I currently run a 1 x 12 with 10 50 cassette and 30t chainring on 29er. 16kg bike.

 

I was looking at getting a 32T oval chainring, would this be a massive jump? And not be really easier to pedal up hills?

 

Or just get a 30T oval to help me a tiny bit up those hills?

 

Believe 30t oval will feel like a 28t and 32t?

Whereas a 32t oval will feel like 30t and 34t? But will the 34T on highest point be huge difference? I'm average fitness level

Posted

Reviving old thread.

 

I currently run a 1 x 12 with 10 50 cassette and 30t chainring on 29er. 16kg bike.

 

I was looking at getting a 32T oval chainring, would this be a massive jump? And not be really easier to pedal up hills?

 

Or just get a 30T oval to help me a tiny bit up those hills?

 

Believe 30t oval will feel like a 28t and 32t?

Whereas a 32t oval will feel like 30t and 34t? But will the 34T on highest point be huge difference? I'm average fitness level

 

when riding, the difference is really not noticable. at least not to me. Why not try one? Worst case, you feel no difference, in which case, you can just leave it on.

Posted

I don't think any of that will make your life easier on the uphills hey. Going with a bigger chainring usually gives you the opposite result. Oval simply changes the distribution of power during your pedal stroke, at one point you'll feel like you have 34T and at another point you'll feel like you have 30T. Overall your ratio will be the same.

 

I've read here and there that you can go one size bigger on ovals than you would on round chainrings. I personnaly changed from round to ovals both 34T and didn't really feel a difference. What tests seem to prove (and I also feel that way) is that it seems to help on climbs when it gets technical, by making it a little bit easier when you're not in position to push/pull power and a little bit harder where you are stronger in your stroke.

 

Overall on a 10 mins non-technical climb I really doubt it makes any difference in terms of pure performance.

 

But that is coming from someone who rides 172.5 / Round rings on the road and 175 / Ovals on the MTB and don't really feel any difference between the two  :lol:  :lol:

Posted

I'm definitely going to give it a go, was just wondering if 32T oval would make me suffer more with the 34T at highest point being too much of a jump from the 30t round.

 

I'm ok with 30t round, more interested to see if I will be less fatigued with an oval and not chasing a faster times per say, more saving my legs.

 

Rapide stopped offering 30t oval as he advised its not really popular as the 32t oval and that made me wonder if should go 32t oval instead of 30t oval.

Posted

I don't think any of that will make your life easier on the uphills hey. Going with a bigger chainring usually gives you the opposite result. Oval simply changes the distribution of power during your pedal stroke, at one point you'll feel like you have 34T and at another point you'll feel like you have 30T. Overall your ratio will be the same.

 

I've read here and there that you can go one size bigger on ovals than you would on round chainrings. I personnaly changed from round to ovals both 34T and didn't really feel a difference. What tests seem to prove (and I also feel that way) is that it seems to help on climbs when it gets technical, by making it a little bit easier when you're not in position to push/pull power and a little bit harder where you are stronger in your stroke.

 

Overall on a 10 mins non-technical climb I really doubt it makes any difference in terms of pure performance.

 

But that is coming from someone who rides 172.5 / Round rings on the road and 175 / Ovals on the MTB and don't really feel any difference between the two  :lol:  :lol:

 

Agree, I have a round chainring on my HT and an oval on the FS, I notice a difference the 1st 3 minutes of my ride and then its forgotten... Guess I am just not a very perceptive rider, that said given a choice I will take the oval, guess I just like the concept.

Posted

Agree, I have a round chainring on my HT and an oval on the FS, I notice a difference the 1st 3 minutes of my ride and then its forgotten... Guess I am just not a very perceptive rider, that said given a choice I will take the oval, guess I just like the concept.

On a 1 by MTB definitely, especially since that's what's on now :D

 

On the road bike I was constantly having issues changing blades when I was on ovals, much better on the new bike with the round chainrings. I'm not going back to ovals on the road, at least as long as 1x isn't a thing on the road  :lol:

Posted (edited)

I'm definitely going to give it a go, was just wondering if 32T oval would make me suffer more with the 34T at highest point being too much of a jump from the 30t round.

 

I'm ok with 30t round, more interested to see if I will be less fatigued with an oval and not chasing a faster times per say, more saving my legs.

 

Rapide stopped offering 30t oval as he advised its not really popular as the 32t oval and that made me wonder if should go 32t oval instead of 30t oval.

what do you weigh ? I think most people use 32/34 blades with 50ish cassettes... the strongest go up to 36 (if the frame allows). I am slowly starting to consider the 36T because the second it rolls fast on the flats/downhills I max out with the 34-11 combo. Doubt it is really a problem at the moment but I remember a couple marathon races where I was losing positions on tar sections because I was running out of gears, but at the time I was running a 30T blade  ;)

 

The ovals is supposed to prevent knee pains but I don't think it will reduce fatigue in your legs.

Edited by Jbr
Posted

I'm at 74kgs.

 

Idea is to not be too fatigued after climbing 500 to 600 meters elevations. This usually climbed within a 4-8km distance. Mostly within 4km tho

Posted

what do you weigh ? I think most people use 32/34 blades with 50ish cassettes... the strongest go up to 36 (if the frame allows). I am slowly considering the 36 because I the second it rolls well on the flats/downhills I max out with the 34/11....

 

The ovals is supposed to prevent knee pains but I don't think it will reduce fatigue in your legs.

 

I'm on the 36, works great for not spinning out when gravel grinding but on steep trail climbs I find it tiring and not efficient, if I was mostly riding trails I would not go bigger than 34.

 

My experience with knees is a bit different, never really had pain but I could definitely tell my knees worked harder on long rides, took a long time for the muscles around my knees to get properly used to the oval. The person that did my bikefit was very anti-oval and tried her best (but failed) to discourage me from using them.

Posted

many years ago i tried oval rings. They felt super. Then the angels intervened and made the ovals out of stock so I had to swtich back to round and I was immediately faster

so i never bothered with oval again.

no these were not biopace :)

Posted

many years ago i tried oval rings. They felt super. Then the angels intervened and made the ovals out of stock so I had to swtich back to round and I was immediately faster

so i never bothered with oval again.

no these were not biopace :)

How much faster [emoji12]
Posted

I changed to oval and I must say I climb slightly easier - Not saying a now climb like a mountain goat because I suck at climbing anyway - But it certainly feels a lot more fluid and I can hold a pace better on uphills.

 

I think some may expect too much like a radical change when going oval - I researched it a fair amount and tend to agree with the science but don't expect to now take time out of your strava segments - Its more about pedaling efficiency and reducing dead spots on each rotation. 

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